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65' riviera sitting for 30 plus years what to expect ?


V10

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considering purchase on 65 riviera 401 , car apparently around 40k orig miles was sitting garaged 30 plus years , original motor & trans owner got it running replacing the basics ( brakes, belts, tires ect.. ) and has put on a few hundred miles with no problems however the transmission fluid was not changed. A 3rd party test drove informed me car shifts smooth no problems and engine runs strong . What I am getting into if transmission fluid was not changed however other fluids were or any other certain headaches I could likely face right away or could it actually be a solid running car after sitting 30 plus years ?

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Expect leaks if it was never run during that time frame. Most cork based gaskets have a tendency to dry out and can pull back from the flanges. Definitely flush the cooling system and change the brake fluid if that wasn't done. Double check the condition of the brake hoses for dry rot. I'd look into various DIY seal restorers that might tighten things up if they've dried out.

It is possible that everything does fine but just be prepared for leaks. Enjoy the car show us some pictures.

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Thanks , aside from oil change and fuel lines apparently the owner flushed cooling system ,changed all brake fluids, new brakes,master cyl , ,plugs, points, belts and has driven several months around 200 plus miles with no leaks or problems. Nothing is a guarantee however I was informed most major problems would have shown up in the first 20 -30 miles of driving after it has sat for so many years garaged . Could it appear this may be a solid car without possible major headaches coming my way ?

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If not already done, replace the radiator and heater hoses, replace the fuel and water pump.

Although tranny fluid seems to hold up well sitting idle, definitely replace it and filter. If you drop the pan you'll get about half of the fluid. The other half will be in the converter. Depending what the fluid looks like you may want to drop the pan a second time after driving it a bit. Or disconnect the pressure cooling line from rad, hook a rubber hose to it and direct it into a large pan. Start engine and dump new fluid in at about the same rate the old is pumping out. Have 10-12 quarts on hand before you start. Stop the engine when the fluid starts looking clean and adjust level to correct height. Drive the car and recheck level.

These Buicks were well built and engineered. It wouldn't be too uncommon if the car was stored in a reasonably dry garage to not need anything other than the items that have been mentioned.

Edited by JZRIV (see edit history)
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OK V-10: I have had lots of experience with cars that come out of deep hibernation. Here are a few of the most important things I have encountered.

Brakes. Make sure all soft parts are new including fresh fluid, new master, new wheel cylinders and the three brake lines. Make sure the E-brake works perfectly. These are heavy Mamas and if the e-brake is happy you'll at least stop.

Gas tank. Make sure the sending unit is clean as well as the tank. I asked my proctologist if I could use his instrument with the camera to see inside and he agreed, adding that if there was a blockage I could be in serious trouble.

Points: Sure fresh points set correctly is a plus. Don't forget to check the wire that goes from the points to the coil. For some reason the rodents really like that particular wire. I have replaced at least 10 already.

Oil: Fresh oil, filter and a quart of Marvels Mystery Oil is happy.

Cooling: Pressure test and coolant test. Make sure the timing case cover doesn't have a hole in the front of it otherwise you won't need to go to a Burger joint for a chocolate milk shake.

Tranny: Top it off, run it, putting at least a couple of tanks under your belt than change it with the filter.

You gotta stop, go and that's it. Mitch

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