Yellowriv

I feel for you Matt. I’ve been where you are more than once. I bought a rare car sight unseen from the other side of the country based on assurance that “it just needed a tune” and no rust. Both statements were bs. The car was a turd. I found myself in your situation, once I knew the motor was stuffed, I couldn’t sell it on in bits and I couldn’t just put it back together. So I had to keep going. Ultimately, it cost me over three times what I paid for it. I came to realise that having failed to immediately sell it before I knew what was wrong, I should have gone back to a bare shell and properly restored it, it wouldn’t have cost much more. The bastard fought me all the way. Finally, when finished, I sold it for half what I had in it. I liken this obsession of ours to standing on the edge of a cliff or riding a motorbike, if you do it often enough, sooner or later you will fall off or crash, its when, not if. I rationalise this by telling myself that I did much better on most of my other cars and that this is the price I pay for continuing to play. Last year just as the pandemic hit I bought an Alfa Sprint out of New York state. I have overcapitalised that too, but I love it so much I don’t care😀 This doesn’t help, I know, but we’ve all been here before, you will get through this, you will win and the end result, while maybe not financially enjoyable, will be good. All the best John

I had a Newport Blue 47 Windsor Highlander Coupe. Lovely car, but I didn’t like the Fluid Drive. I felt it didn’t have the control of a manual or convenience of an Automatic. Nice car, I agree with you, remove the seat covers. John.

I agree, not necessary.

If an engine hasn't run for some time, particularly pre modern multigrade oils, I always drop the sump, clean out the sludge and check the oil pump prior to starting. Cheap insurance in my view.

Hi, I’m looking for a 1951-53 Hornet Coupe, 2 door Post, manual with overdrive. Twin H Power not a requirement but would not be rejected🙂 Car needs to be original, prefer unrestored, would like a car with history and documentation, must have an original interior. I’m in Australia, have imported six cars from the US so don’t be concerned, will pay a proper price for the right car. Send me a PM if you have something that might be of interest. Thanks John

A classic Lancia Aprilia.

Teetor Hartley or McFarlan?

69 degrees and a beautiful Spring day here in Sydney😎

I’d have thought the last true production car with a rumble seat was the 1949 Triumph 2000 Roadster.

Interesting sales strategy, based on a $900 price increase in 7 days, in another month it will cost an additional $3,857. If it takes a year to sell the price could be $60,928. Better get in quick.😃

Might be a test, if you offer market he might give it to you, if you nickel and dime him you might end up paying market anyway. I know what I would do.

Fascinating thread. I know nothing about these Studebakers, however I notice compering the Indy Pace Car roadster photo with this car that the front fenders on this car appear to have a different shape and shallower crown than the cars in the other photos. They don't follow the tyres the same or come down as low at the front. Anyone agree?

Ugh!

1951 Chev?

Thanks Dodgebrother. If the purchase goes through I will ship by covered transport to Vancouver. Then by 20’ container to Sydney.

Thanks for the help everyone, much appreciated. Craig, thanks. I’m aware of the asbestos issues, I believe I can deal with them. Cheers John.

Hi everyone, I live in Australia. I’ve previously imported cars from the US, four from Long Beach and one from Savannah GA, all for my own use. I’m interested in a car located in Quebec, the owner knows nothing about shipping and, to be fair, probably doesn’t care. My question is should I attempt to ship it from Canada or bring it into the States and ship from, say, New York? Can anyone assist? Many thanks, John.

My pick, pity there were only four and the Le Mans coupe. Failing that one of the “production” Berlinettas or Spiders would suffice...

We have a three owner April 1990 RHD Mariner Blue MX5 with 34,000 miles. Immaculate, with all books and history.

Nice car and a nicer grille than the US version IMHO😁

63 Futura.

I run Evans in my old cars, have done for years. Most of the peripheral benefits of using it have been covered here. My understanding is that its not the water boiling that damages an engine its the steam pockets this creates at much higher temperatures than 212F, as coolant is lost. The much higher boiling point of Evans avoids this issue. I had a real world experience of this with my XK120 Jaguar. As we know, cooling in these is marginal. I had Evans in it and got stuck in traffic before I fitted an auxiliary electric fan (that became a mission in itself because the genny couldn’t cope). XK120s have a dual temp/oil pressure gauge. It got so hot the temp wound into the oil pressure quadrant, but it didn’t boil, so no coolant was lost and the engine didn’t stop and no damage. This was enough to convince me. John

L7?

I agree, and surely you’d take the rocker molds off and paint under them? They’re a classic rust trap.

Gentlemen, thank you for your generous and very knowledgeable assistance. John.