1916 Buick D-45 Clutch Woes

[cgrocen]

Hello everyone,

I am working on my aunt's 1916 McLaughlin Buick D-45 Touring car, and there are some problems with the clutch. I am breaking this post up into the following sections.

1. The problem.

2. Observations.

3. What I think is wrong.

4. Questions.

1. The problem: When the car is idling in neutral, and the clutch pedal is pushed all of the way down, the gear shifter cannot be moved into any gear because the gears are grinding. It was as if you were coasting in neutral, and tried to move the shifter into gear without depressing the clutch, and the gears would just grind.

2. Observations: I took the inspection cover off of the top of the bell housing and noted that when the car was idling in neutral, and the clutch was pushed all of the way down, that the cone shaped clutch brake at the back end of the assembly was not stopping the disengaged clutch from turning. Also, three grease cups were not installed, as just threaded holes were visible. This transmission and clutch was professionally rebuilt in the early 1980's when the car was completely and professionally restored, and it appears that three grease cups were not installed at that time.:confused: The grease cup for the release bearing was installed though.

If you try starting the car in gear, with the clutch depressed, there is a drag on the clutch, and the motor only turns over at about 1/2 of normal cranking speed. The cone clutch itself does fully disengage with the clutch pedal depressed.

3. What I think is wrong is that the grease cup for the clutch spider bearing was not installed, and that bearing has lost any lubrication it had, and is starting to seized up. This problem with the gears grinding has been getting worse over a short period of time. The car has only been driven a total of 150 miles since being restored 30 years ago.

4. Questions:

a) Does it seem reasonable that this bearing may be the problem?

What must be done to remove the transmission to gain access to the clutch, and then remove the clutch?

c) Do you have to undo the rear end and move it back?

d) Has anyone had a similar experience?

e) What does the clutch adjusting nut do?

f) What is an SKF, FAG, or Timken number for the spider bearing or is a replacement bearing even available?

I do not have a shop manual for this car that would explain a removal procedure.

Here are two pictures.

This first picture is of a sectional view of the clutch from the car's operator's manual with some highlights of items I have mentioned.

This second photo shows the locations where I have inserted grease zerks in the threaded holes where the grease cups were missing, and applied grease to the mechanism. You can see the one grease cup that was installed on the release bearing when the clutch was rebuilt. The red color is new grease. Yes, I know that I have to clean that grease up.

Any comments, suggestions, or ideas for help would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,

Chris

[Dandy Dave]

What was it relined with, Leather, or Kevlar? Dandy Dave!

[cgrocen]

Hi Dandy Dave,

I am not sure what the clutch was relined with. I don't think that it matters, as the clutch lining on the cone clutch is not where the problem lies, as the clutch does completely disengage when the clutch pedal is depressed, and the clutch itself functions properly.

The whole clutch assembly still rotates with the clutch pedal fully depressed, and the clutch disengaged.

The small cone shaped clutch brake lining was relined at the same time, and does fully engage with the clutch pedal depressed. There is that spring that forces the cone into the clutch brake lining, and it seems to be doing its job too. That is why I suspect that bearing is getting seized up.

Chris

[Dandy Dave]

I'm going though a similar problem with my 1915 C-36. My car differs in design as the only bearing is a Thrust bearing at the rear of the clutch which only works when the clutch is depressed. The shaft that the clutch rides on has a bushing. I recently discovered upon disassembly that all the balls spit out of the trust bearing making the car very tough to shift. I had to shut it off, put it in gear, restart it with the clutch in and get going in first gear and then up shift, like driving an old Mack Truck matching road speed and RPM to get the gears to slide in without using the clutch, or in some instances, doubble clutch. Lucky me, Looking though some NOS Bearings I have, I have found a suitable replacement that should better than the original with a little machining. I'm afraid that my bearing number will not do you any good as you have two bearings that are larger than my single. The only thing that you can do is to take your clutch apart, Check the bearings which are suspect of being bad, and get replacments by dimension. Yes, you will need to slide the rearend back, or slide the engine forward to remove the transmission and bell housing so that you can disassemble the clutch and components. I slid my rearend back and pulled my tranny from the bottom. I would venture to guess that you also have bearings that are worn and seizing. The only way to get these things going again is to just do it. I'll coach you if need be.

Looking again, Your pilot bearing may also be dry. It is noted as a graphited bushing and is closest to the crank shaft. These can only lubed when the unit is out. Dandy Dave!

Edited June 29, 2011 by Dandy Dave (see edit history)

[oldiron]

Chris; First, regards to the clutch brake. It doesn't have to stop the clutch, but rather slow it down. Secondly, did you check the weight of the transmission oil ? You'll probably need at least a 140 weight gear oil, or something with a viscosity equal to a 140....... you see, a heavy oil also slows down the gears when the clutch is disengaged; i.e. thus facilitating a shift without grinding gears. I would try these two avenues before tearing things apart. Also,is the restorer still around who did the car? Maybe he can tell you what he did, and/or what to do. Regards; Jerry Janson

[cgrocen]

Hello Dandy Dave and oldiron,

In regards to the clutch brake. I can have the clutch pedal held down all of the way for a whole 60 seconds, and the assembly still turns at the same rpm as it did initially. It does not slow down at all. The clutch brake does get fully engaged and the spring is compressed behind it.

I believe the weight of the gear oil in the transmission is correct. The restoration company who did the restoration in the early 1980's was in Whitby, Ontario. I cannot remember the name of the company, nor do I know if they are still in business. But something makes me think that they were somehow associated with "the Craven Foundation"??? The work on the car was second to none, and everything else on this car was done to high professional standards at that time. I think it was unlikely that the gear oil was too light. However, it will be first on my list of things to check. I do know that I did check to see if there was gear oil in the transmission, and it was full. I did not check to see how heavy it was.

Dandy Dave: I think you said it the best. In order to get things going again, I just have to get in there and do it. That is, take it apart, see what is wrong, and repair it.

I think it can only be one of three things: The clutch lining (leather), the pilot bushing, or the spider/thrust bearing. The clutch release bearing appears to be working fine, that is smooth and quiet.

I will keep you posted on my progress. I think I may be picking up the car next week and start working on it then.

Best regards,

Chris

[Marty Roth]

Our 1914 Buick B-37 acted exactly the same as Dandy Dave's car

It turned out that, whoever assembled the running gear left out the pilot bearing completely!

My friend, and first rate restorer, Barry Eash in Windber, PA identified the problem and located the correct parts with the help of Mark Shaw who provided a schematic of the bearing.

Now the car shifts without having to turn off the engine, and without having to match RPM like a Mack Truck.

Edited July 1, 2011 by Marty Roth (see edit history)

[cgrocen]

Hi Marty,

I will certainly check the pilot bearing when I get the clutch taken off. Who knows what one will find in there. I would hope that it is still in there, as it was a professional restoration that was done on the car.

I will let you know what I find!

Chris

[W_Higgins]

I fixed a problem of this very same description on a 1917 once. The clutch lining was the original and in very poor shape. It was tearing off of the cone and sticking to the flywheel. Everything was traveling like it should and the pedal could be mashed to the floor, but the lining just wasn't letting go of the flywheel.

[cgrocen]

Hello W_Higgins,

Thank you for your input. Perhaps the clutch lining is the problem with this car too. The more I think about it, perhaps that is the problem. The car sat for over 10 years. The clutch would have been engaged the whole time. That must not be good for the lining.

If in fact the leather clutch lining needs to be replaced, where can one find the correct leather for this?

Cheers,

Chris

[cgrocen]

Hello everyone,

I have the McLaughlin in my shop now. The clutch has been removed and the problem has been found. The leather lining has let go from the inner clutch cone. It was getting jammed up between the two cones when the clutch was released. The pilot bushing is fine, the release bearing is fine, and the thrust bearing is fine as well.

Here is what the leather lining looks like:

Now here are my questions:

1. What kind of leather should be used? It is just over 3/16" thick. I measured it to be .200" thick with my calipers.

2. Can it be just plain leather? Should it be treated with anything before it is riveted to the cone?

3. Should it be glued to the cone as well?

I would like to source the leather locally, so I can get the car back together in a timely manner.

Thank you,

Chris

[Guest cben09]

Leather for clutches [ and brakes on cranes]] is a different tanning process,,,Difference I cant tell you,,

I bought a big chunk of leather for my 45hp car,,got it too thick,,but they cut[scived] the leather to size,,They still have the old belt driven machinery from the OLD plant,,,Try PAGE Belting co,,,Concord NH,,A post office branch is around the corner,,,so a street addss should not be needed,,,but go for a phone #

They have been in business since around 1885,,as a general mill supplier,,They also supply round leather belting in several sizes,,

I hope they are still there,,Good luck,,Ben

[Dandy Dave]

Yup. that is your problem. Glad you found it. I have my 15 back together and it is shifting like a dream once again. The suitible replacment thrust bearing I found is still available and is a number EW-1. The size is, 1.00 inch center hole, 1 5/8ths (1.625) outside diameter, and the bearing is 3/8ths, (0.375) thick. It will work on the 1914 and 1915 B & C, 36 and 37. May also work on other earlier Buicks. Dandy Dave!

Edited July 6, 2011 by Dandy Dave (see edit history)

[cgrocen]

Hello everyone,

I have decided to obtain leather from the Page Belting Company in Boscawen, NH. They have been in business since 1868 making leather belting.

Here is a link to their web page for leather belting:

Page Belting Company | Leather Belting

The reason I chose to obtain leather from them is that their leather is made for mechanical uses. Also, the thickness will be more consistent than leather simply cut from a hide. I measured the thickness of the old leather clutch lining and it varied from .165" to .189". I had measured it before, but there was a lip on the edge and it was slightly thicker there because it had squeezed out a bit. Page Belting has a "heavy" single ply belt that is 3/16" (.1875") thick, but it can vary up to 14/64" (.21875"). I had requested a piece that has a consistent thickness and is a bit thicker than the .1875". They are familiar with leather used for clutches for vintage cars and have sold their leather for lining clutches in the past. The leather also has a smooth side and a rough side. The rough side will be the side that will be on the outside of the the inside cone. The rough side will contact the inside of the flywheel cone. I ordered it today, and it should be here in about a week or so. I will post pictures after it arrives.

Best regards,

Chris

[Guest cben09]

OOOps,,,generally,,,,the hair side is the side with more contact,,smooth side to pulley,,,and therefore,,smooth [hair] side to flywheel,,the friction side,,Hope this makes sense,,

Page still has the old sciver that will cut learher to any thickness,,,maybee to 1/4" if the bull or rhinorcess will be quiet that long,,,

It's a good old fashioned company,,Its unusual to find the round belting for stuff like 1903 Napier,,or 40 hp Packard [ model 30]

When i saw the old building w/ hist dist plaques on the walls,,converted to senior housing,,,oh my,,,,but one of the tennants drew me a map to the new place,,,,he was a car guy,,,Annyway glad you found em,,,pass the word,,they enjoy and can use the business,,,,Cheers,,Ben

[cgrocen]

Hello,

I was wondering which side should be facing out on the inner cone. Smooth side out to contact the flywheel cone then. Let's see what anyone else has to say about this. I will have to carefully examine the old leather and see if I can determine how it was mounted. I do know that it is important to get it correct.

Best regards,

Chris

[Guest cben09]

The Pierce-Arrow is a common car and used cone clutch1904--1920 [appox],,perhaps we can get confirmation on this,,,

Years ago I remember I found this,,was suprised,,,so I took note,,,Now I cant remember where that detail was found,,,but I remember I took it as a good source of info,,,,Cheers,,Ben

[W_Higgins]

This is exactly what happened to the '17 that I mentioned earlier and it looked just like your photos. I was able to just tear it off by hand.

The material on that car was 1/4 in. and I didn't go to the extent that you did to source it -- just went to the saddle shop across the street. Still have the leftovers, in fact. No doubt that you probably will get something more will suited to the purpose. On the hair vs. skin side discussion, I want to say it was skin side out (skin being the "fuzzy" side). I have photos I can consult but it was before I was using a digital camera, so sharing won't be possible -- at least not immediately.

I think I found most of the information that I needed in a Dyke's manual. There is also a pretty neat geometry trick for laying out the cone on a flat surface that was in a separate publication and I've posted it here before. Rather than retype it, I'll try to hunt down the post and copy/paste to this thread.

[cgrocen]

Hello W_Higgins,

I believe the outside or hair side of the hide is the smooth side, and what is referred to as the flesh side is the fuzzy side. I have two different opinions now as to which side goes out and contacts the flywheel.:confused: One is that the smooth side goes out, and one is that the flesh side (fuzzy side) goes out. I took a good look at the old leather, and it appears that the fuzzy side (flesh side) was out, and the skin side was to the inside and mating to the stamped steel clutch cone.

My own feeling is that the fuzzy side should go out, and that is the side that should contact the flywheel.

I do not have a Dyke's manual. I wonder if there is anything in one of those manuals that says which side of the leather should be out to contact the flywheel. Perhaps someone may have a manual and can post an answer.

If you could find the post about laying out the pattern of the cone, that would be great.

Best regards,

Chris

[W_Higgins]

It's late now and I'll be away from the computer tomorrow, but give me a little time and I can find what we've discussed. It sounds like you'll be waiting on your material for a bit, anyway.

Every pre-war car owner should have a Dyke's manual. It's full of everything you need to know about your car, especially more popular ones like your Buick.

[W_Higgins]

Sorry to be so slow with the promised information. I found the source I mentioned, which is a Twelfth Edition Dyke's Manual:

Clicking the image should take you to where it is posted and there will be a little button toward the top-right of the photo that looks like down-pointing arrow that will allow you to, "Download original file" where you can save it to your machine and enlarge it, or possibly read in place. It covers a lot of the details about which you were asking.

Edited July 21, 2011 by W_Higgins (see edit history)

[Guest Al Brass]

Hi Chris,

The smooth side goes towards the cone so that the rougher sides wears against the flywheel. The old leather can perhaps be used as a pattern to cut the new but if not, cut a cardboard pattern. The leather should be cut about half to an inch short so that you stretch it into place. Withdraw the sprung feet and start by rivetting the two ends, then stretch it over the cone, side to side as you work around. You should drill countersunk holes in the leather for the rivets so that the river heads sit well under the face. A tool supplier should have the special tool for countersinking linings. I have used aluminum pop rivets as an option to solid copper rivets, matter of choice but pop rivets are easier to work with. Release the sprung feet to the correct adjustment (should be in your handbook). Once you have the clutch fitted, liberally squirt neatsfoot oil into the centre of the clutch (towards the flywheel). You may need to turn the flywheel until all the leather has had some. This will eventually seep through the whole surface and give you a really nice feeling clutch.

I have a CX24 ( '15 4 cyl Roadster) and the cone clutch on this was the first I ever did. An old mechanic gave me some tips and guidance before I started. In the years since, I have done quite a few for other people and never had a problem with one.

Regards

Al

Edited July 21, 2011 by Al Brass (see edit history)

[cgrocen]

Thank you W_Higgins and Al Brass for the Dyke's manual info and the other info on putting the leather on the clutch. The leather is not here yet, so I can study up on the manual information. I think this will be an easier job now that I am armed with lots of info. Thanks guys!

Chris

[W_Higgins]

A friend told me the "Download original file" option on the photo sharing site isn't working and I don't have the time to figure it out. If you can't read it as you see it there, shoot me a p.m. with your email address and I'll send you the original photo as an attachment.

[cgrocen]

The pictures downloaded just fine for me. Thank you. Chris

[W_Higgins]

O.K., great. There is more on care and maintenance that I'll try to post to that album later and will let you know when I do.

I corrected my earlier post -- that information came from a Twelfth Edition Dyke's, just in case you try to seek out a copy. The Thirteenth Edition still has the information, but by the Twentieth they had omitted it.

[Guest cben09]

Scarf the ends,with a hand plane,,,small one,,a one hander,overlap about 2-4" glue w super glue,,,

Re. counter sink,,,,,grind a drill on bench grinder,, wont take too long,,then practice on wood til it works right,,Limit drill quill travel so drill wont go too far and always wood under to not to hit the table,,,Have fun,,Ben

[cgrocen]

Hello all,

Two things to note about the instructions in the Dyke's manual: 1. If you want to make your own clutch lining, it says to use unstretchable leather belting. I take it that this would refer to drive belting versus a belt that would hold your pants up, or common tanned leather hide. 2. The flesh side (fuzzy side) goes out and contacts the flywheel.

I have ordered leather drive belting 3/16" thick to use for this car. I will mount it flesh side out.

One thing though, is that the manual says to overlap the leather about 2"-3" and bevel and glue the ends together. Then, force this leather band over the cone clutch and glue it in place with some shellac before riveting in place.

The leather on my cone was not overlapped. There were two rows of rivets where the square ends of the leather butted up against each other, and the rest of the rivet holes were staggered singly around the rest of the cone.

W_Higgins, maybe there is a different method of attaching the leather for the Chevrolet clutch as referred to on page 664 of your manual (shown at the bottom of the picture of the page of your manual). Would it be possible to check and see what it says there?

Best regards,

Chris

[Guest cben09]

leather that doesn't stretch much is the part both sides of the backbone of the animal,,,and the stretchie is nearer the belly,,,,,Don't forget this clutch might have been fixed in 1921 after the war,,,Cheers,,Ben

[Guest Al Brass]

One thing though, is that the manual says to overlap the leather about 2"-3" and bevel and glue the ends together. Then, force this leather band over the cone clutch and glue it in place with some shellac before riveting in place.

The leather on my cone was not overlapped. There were two rows of rivets where the square ends of the leather butted up against each other, and the rest of the rivet holes were staggered singly around the rest of the cone.

Chris

Hi Chris,

I instructed you as per a Buick clutch, knowing they have ends secured with two rivets each. I don't believe one design is any better than the other, just different. Do it as it was done and you won't have trouble. Another thing, I wouldn't want to glue the leather to the cone, the sprung feet won't work properly. One more tip I could pass on is to cut the leather just a little wider than it should be and neatly trim it once done. Makes a real neat looking job.

Regards

Al

Edited July 22, 2011 by Al Brass (see edit history)

[W_Higgins]

W_Higgins, maybe there is a different method of attaching the leather for the Chevrolet clutch as referred to on page 664 of your manual (shown at the bottom of the picture of the page of your manual). Would it be possible to check and see what it says there?

Best regards,

Chris

Below are the other pages. Sometimes the instructions in a Dyke's are generic, and "worst case scenario". The '17 Buick I did didn't have lapped ends, either. I've also relined a cone clutch for a White and it didn't have lapped ends, but it did have the spring loaded plungers, in which case you certainly wouldn't want it cemented.

[cgrocen]

Thank you Gentlemen for the advice and photos of the manual. I am well armed with knowledge now to tackle this job. I was away for the weekend, and will be next weekend as well. I may be able to spend one evening this week on the car, but I am preparing another car (1966 Mercury Park Lane 2-door hardtop) for a show in Saskatoon, SK. After that, it will be full time on the 1916 McLaughlin until the clutch job is completed.

Thank you again to everyone who has offered help so far. I will be posting more photos as the project progresses.

Cheers,

Chris

[cgrocen]

Hello everyone,

I am back at working on the McLaughlin. I was away in Saskatoon this past weekend for a large car show called Super Run. There was an antiques and collectibles flea market there as well. I managed to buy a book called "Automobile Repairing Made Easy" by Victor W. Page, published in 1919. There is a section in the book specifically about leather cone clutches. What a stroke of Luck!

Here is a picture of the book.

Inside cover

Before I show all of the pages pertaining to leather cone clutches, I want to say that I have learned the following from this chapter, and this will be the way that I will install the leather on my aunt's clutch cone.

Cut out the leather, soak it with neatsfoot oil, then countersink and rivet it to the clutch cone by working your way around by pulling and clamping the leather in place as you go.

Explanation given on pages 658, 659, and 660.

Here are the pages of the clutch cone chapter.

I will make another post to include the rest of my photos.

Chris

[cgrocen]

More photos:

I made a template by following the instructions on pages 657-658. I am a draftsperson by trade, and I was able to draw it out on CAD and print it out on a large piece of paper.

I decided to use some stiff cardboard as the template. This was a large mailing envelope that I opened up. It is quite a bit heavier than paper.

Here is the piece of leather belting, the paper template, and the cardboard template with some pieces taped to it to make it long enough. The black line on the left hand end marks where the template overlaps.

Here is the cardboard template shaped into the cone shape with the end taped in place.

Here is the clutch cone and the cardboard template. The template is not smooth because of the crease that was in the envelope. The crease does not affect the template.

How well will it fit? Let's see. Looks pretty good to me!

It is tight at the top.

It is tight at the bottom.

Looks good.

Here are the old pieces of leather over top of the template, and my size 12's at the bottom!

Here is the underside of the old leather showing how the leather failed around the rivets.

I wonder if the leather was put on wet (with water), then dried and shrunk, and that put a lot of stress on the leather around the rivets? Just a thought.

Here is the new leather, rough side that will go out.

Smooth side that will go in.

I will mark the smooth side of the leather and then cut it out. I was thinking on using a jig saw to cut the leather. Any opinions on using the jigsaw, or on anything else in my last two posts?

More pictures to come as I progress.

Chris

[cgrocen]

Hello everyone,

I have cut out the leather for the clutch. Here is what I did:

I taped the paper pattern down onto the leather, then I traced around the pattern on to the smooth side of the leather with a pen.

Close up of the right hand side.

Close up of the left hand side, showing the edge of the pattern, and the lines extended past the end.

Pattern transferred to the leather.

Cutting the leather with a jigsaw with a sharp fine blade.

I improvised a workbench by using two old bi-fold doors set upon two saw horses. I set the two doors about an inch apart. I put the leather over top of the doors, and the space between the doors is where I put the blade of the jig saw.

Finished cutting out the leather.

Test fitted by wrapping the leather around the clutch cone. Held in place with a clamp. Notice lots of leather overlaps the end. Will trim to fit when I rivet the leather in place. The new leather is about 1/16" wider than the leather that was on the cone before. The new leather is also slightly thicker than the old leather.

More to come as I progress.

Cheers,

Chris

[W_Higgins]

Fantastic post -- thanks for sharing your progress in such detail.

[cgrocen]

Hello everyone,

The clutch is in and the car is being driven!

Here is an update.

I could not find the exact size rivets. I believe the ones that were used on the old clutch leather were #10 rivets. All I could find were #9 rivets. The difference in size is minimal. I believe the shank is .010" larger in diameter, and the head is about 1/32" larger in diameter. Bigger is better, right?

I simply drilled out the holes on the clutch cone 1/64" larger so the new rivets would fit.

Old rivets and new rivet.

I obtained some 100% pure Neatsfoot oil.

Here is my work bench with the Neatsfoot oil, leather, and a rag. I have a paper on the bench just to catch any oil that may drip off of the rag.

Here is what the oil on the leather looks like. It makes the leather turn dark. I put on four coats, front and back.

I made up some spacers to hold the buttons in on the clutch cone. I simply cut some washers into a "U" shape and put them behind the buttons to hold them in.

Button held in.

I started at one end of the leather and put two rivets in. I drilled the leather through with a drill bit the same as what I used on the clutch cone. Then I used a 1/2" drill bit with the tip ground to the same angle as the underside of the rivet. I drilled the countersunk hole deep enough so the head of the rivet was below the top surface of the leather. This hole was about 1/16" deep.

My dad helped me with setting the rivets. We did as was shown in the manual. I put a bolt in the vice, and this is what the rivet head was placed on. I cut the excess length of the rivet stem off and left about 1/8" or so and peened it over with a ball peen hammer. I had to use a 3/8" plate that I placed over the rivets that were in close to the inside of the cone. You could not hammer them to set them. I placed the tip of one end of the plate over the rivet stem, and held the other end with my hand, and then used an air hammer to hit the plate in the middle so it would flatten the stem of the rivet. It worked very well.

I then pulled the leather tight, clamped it in place and did the next rivet. I did this all of the way around, and then for the last two, I trimmed the leather to length and put the last two rivets in.

All in all, 22 rivets were placed. Here is the end result.

The leather was cleaned off before being installed.

The next step was to put the clutch in. Here it is ready to be installed, with the release bearing fitted.

Bolted in place.

Transmission being fitted.

Pedals put on before bolting transmission in place.

View through inspection opening.

The rest of the parts went back into place with no problems to report.

I took the car for a test drive. The clutch engages smoothly as it should.

Best regards,

Chris

[W_Higgins]

Great job. No reason that shouldn't provide several more decades of good service.

[cgrocen]

Hi Walter,

Thank you for the kind words. It was fun working on the car, and learning what had to be done to remedy the problem.

The car is going back out to my Aunt's place in Manitoba on Friday.

Cheers,

Chris

[Guest cben09]

Do not rev the engine to get in motion,,,,Use only enough throttle to get in motion,,more throttle on hills of course,,

Once engaged,,,then accelerate,,

This way the clutch should last for years,,Same applies to other clutches as well,,

I notice many drivers are not used to the torque of the earlier lo-compresson engines with lots of torque to spare,,should be a fun driver,,Don't forget to put a stick to hold the pedal down,,sometimes they stick when left for a while,,,Best of luck,,and Happy Motorinng,,,Ben