oldiron

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I am interested in the fan, the arm that supports it, and it's mounting hardware. Could you email me diameter of fan blade ring, and your tele number or email address. Regards; Jerry Janson cell; 201-259-3308 email; cement14@msn.com

So; when you say you like using evaporust as a coolant to really get things clean, do you mean straight "evaporust" into the cooling system ? Regards; Jerry Janson

Philipj; there is a very nice '36 Century coupe listed in Hemmings. It is dual side mounted, and with a rumble seat. I had the pleasure of riding in it this past summer. It runs very well. An older restoration that has been well kept and loved. Take a look , like the man says 'what have you got to lose.'. good luck with your search. regards; Jerry Janson

Thankyou Larry

See Cadillac forum below

1913 Cadillac Side Lights for sale; Complete including original curved lenses, and all internal reflectors. Internals probably just need polishing. Exteriors need polishing, and there are some minor dents as noted in pictures. These have been hanging on the barn wall since prior to 1940. I partially cleaned one up to show it's condition. $200.00 the pair, plus shipping. Call Jerry Janson cell; 201-259-3308 or email cement14@msn.com

1913 Cadillac Parts and price book and supplement. Very good condition. Both books are complete. $200.00 plus postage for the pair. Jerry Janson (201) 259 3308

John; While I do not have body parts, I do have two complete 1913 side lights, a 1913 illustrated parts and price book, also the illustrated supplement to the parts and price book, also have new/unused set of intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, two cast iron heads with brass valve stem cages and valves, and what I believe is the drive gear for the air compressor, also have about eight foot length of new riveted type fan belt as used on early cad's. If interested call Jerry Janson 201-259-3308 or email cement14@msn.com Regards;

Also been there with the loose and clicking spokes on my 1913 Cadillac. The car weighs in at about 4,000 lbs. The front wheels are dished, so you not only have radial, but lateral, and angular loads at work when in motion. The rear wheels are your drive wheels, absorbing all the torque from the motor when you let out that big cone clutch, but also all the load from the rear wheel brakes when stopping. So while quick poly might sound good and even stop the clicking, just as shims help short term, they are solutions that are short term at best. The real solution for a 'heavy' car is to ride on new wheels. Calimers Wheel Shop has been doing this for over 40 years. (I've used them and recommend them highly). I believe Coker has also set up a wheel rebuilding shop in the past couple of years. Talk to them both. Regards; Jerry Janson

Distributor cap,(two), both used, good condition with bakelite thumb nuts..... $100.00 each (Sold) Rotor, used, good condition.............................................................................$100.00 Heads, Two, good condition, with valves, springs, brass valve stem cages....$750.00 each Manzel Compressor, mounts on waterpump, turns/good compression............$250.00[attachment Also without pictures, are a set of Gray and Davis Side lights, (Complete and very good condition, but need cleaning.), a Gray and Davis Head-lite and rim in fair condition, drive gear for compressor, Bowen greasecups, Wheel-lug with swagged nut, collection of crush rings, manifold gaskets, and assorted gaskets for same. Call Jerry Janson 201-259-3308 or email cement14@msn.com =783204:001.JPG]

Wanted; 1924 model R flywheel or flywheel ring gear. Or if there is enough demand, I will have ring gear made. Comments? Also need rear end for same. contact Jerry Janson cell 201-259-3308 email cement14@msn.com

Bob, my book covers up only to frame #760. You need frame #922 as you indicated. I would try the AACA library or the RR owners club. Also, before removing your generator, try removing the black band cover on the right side. It should give you access to the brushes, and the commutator. At this point you should be able to lift the brushes and clean the commutator with a fine sand paper. I just did this to a delco starter generator on an early Cadillac. It had not been charging so I cleaned the commutator and it is again charging properly. Good luck and regards; Jerry Janson

Bob; I have a Wells Auto Electrician's handbook with many different electrical schematics of Westinghouse generators and voltage regulators for cars up to 1922. There are no 'exploded' view though. So if this could help, let me know the year and model you are looking for. Regards; Jerry Janson

ricosan; if I'm reading the comments correctly, you still have not found your problem. There is one sure way perhaps, and that would be with a vibration meter. A vibration meter normally reads the harmonic output from an attached sensor; i.e. the sensor being fixed,(strapped), to a bearing housing so that it may read the harmonic frequency of that bearing when it is in motion. (A deteriorating bearing or bent or otherwise misaligned shaft, putting uneven loads on the bearing would allow for a higher harmonic frequency reading than normal, thus indicating the problem area.). This could be done at all bearing points to determine the source of your vibration, One such manufacturer of a portable vibration meter that is also reasonably priced and should lend itself to aiding you in this endeavor is Balmac, of Plain City, Ohio. ( balmacinc.com or tel 614-873-8222) again, good luck; Jerry Janson