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HELP ID SOME OF THIS


Guest GRUMPYONE

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Guest GRUMPYONE

Ok, i got some questions. I think the motor is not original for my car and would like to know what it is. Also need some help on some of the tag numbers. This is my first attempt to do a resto and not street rod.

Thank you for your help, im lost:D If at all about motor what is it and what other numbers do i need for to get color and interior.

OK HERE WE GO

BLOCK LOWER NEAR STARTER

860129-15

BLOCK UPPER DRIVERSIDE NEAR HEAD

PI2A*3I402* *= A STAR

HEAD NEAR FIREWALL

HEATER 636175-3

PLUGS SAYS J-11

DISTRUBTOR READS

CRYSLER CORPORATION SOLOR SPARK IGNITION

1GS-4103A-1 12S035886

BODY TAG FIREWALL

D2 40TSA

THANKS FOR YOUR HELP.

I just sent the rear brake cylinders off the white post restroation for rebuild, also ordered all new brakes from pads to brake master cylinder. I got the carb rebuilt and now just brakes and can back it out. When i get this far i will atke a bunch of pics and let everybody see it and tell me what i need to do. I just want to make it a period as possiable. I always wanted a car that was as close to possiable. I know i want be able to afford a ten but a 8.5 will work for now. I just want to thank everybody for the last post i made, and the warm welcome to an excellent site. Just remember just because i dont post here doesnt mean im not here:D.

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The only number that counts is the serial number. It is stamped into the block. There is a pad on the block at the top, left side, about 3" back from the front of the block.

I assume we are talking about some kind of flathead six.

PI2A*3I402* *= A STAR

P12 - 1941 Plymouth 201 cu in 87HP 3 1/8 bore and 4 3/8 stroke.

According to my Motor Repair Manual your distributor should be model 1GS-4111-1 or 1GS-4204-1

Also your engine # should be P12 followed by a 7 or 8 digit number.

Is it possible this is a pickup truck, or a Canadian made car or some other offshoot?

Edited by Rusty_OToole (see edit history)
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Guest GRUMPYONE
The only number that counts is the serial number. It is stamped into the block. There is a pad on the block at the top, left side, about 3" back from the front of the block.

I assume we are talking about some kind of flathead six.

PI2A*3I402* *= A STAR

P12 - 1941 Plymouth 201 cu in 87HP 3 1/8 bore and 4 3/8 stroke.

yes i am sorry it is a flat head six

Looks to be a 1941 Plymouth engine by the "P12" prefix.

thanks for the replys, all the info i can use will be helpful.

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Guest GRUMPYONE
Have not been able to track down the serial # on the distributor because my books only go back to 1940. But the dist is probably off a 38 or 39 Dodge or Plymouth.

Engine, 1941 Plymouth 87HP six.

Thanks for all the help. The car has got a 12volt gen and regulator, i am just trying to see if distrubtor was swaped for that reason. I will try to get a pic of motor up in a little while. It needs paint and detail work. There are not alot of original cars like this 36 around here. My buddies want to street rod it, at first me to. When i drove it and seen how solid it was, i cannot explain it in words but it will never happen. I think i like this car more than any rod or traditional rod i have ever owned. It realy feels good to be on a site that people are willing to help newbies out. I know you members are going out of your way cause i am on other sites where newbies get onto just to profit. I like to gain knowledge and now want to keep it as original as possiable. I know it needs alot of correcting, but i have more time than money. Man i love my car :D.

Edited by GRUMPYONE
lol cannot spell (see edit history)
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I think that it's awesome that you at first wanted to street rod it and now have changed your mind to keep it as original as you can. I used to have a 1968 Plymouth Roadrunner and I raced the heck out of it on the street, but I really enjoyed driving my original 1936 Dodge as much, if not more. There is no other feeling like driving an original car from the early days. It's cool to have a car that looks old and has been modernized to keep it "dependable", but old cars just have a way of taking you back to the old days of Sunday drives and just puttering along. The thing most folks don't realize is that most of the early cars WERE dependable the way they were built. It mostly has to do with upkeep to make them last. Anyone can put the ubiquitous Chevy 350 in a car to make it go faster, but why?

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Guest GRUMPYONE
I think that it's awesome that you at first wanted to street rod it and now have changed your mind to keep it as original as you can. I used to have a 1968 Plymouth Roadrunner and I raced the heck out of it on the street, but I really enjoyed driving my original 1936 Dodge as much, if not more. There is no other feeling like driving an original car from the early days. It's cool to have a car that looks old and has been modernized to keep it "dependable", but old cars just have a way of taking you back to the old days of Sunday drives and just puttering along. The thing most folks don't realize is that most of the early cars WERE dependable the way they were built. It mostly has to do with upkeep to make them last. Anyone can put the ubiquitous Chevy 350 in a car to make it go faster, but why?

This is the word i want to say, I just faced a situation when i ordered my master cylender. Buddies wanted to duel master it on firewall or in floor. I was leaning this way. I spoke to a gentelman at andy bernbaum who said " a single master cylinder has worked for over 65-70 yrs, put it and and drive it". True or not made since so i ordered a master cylinder. This is a good place and has helped out on parts and some questions. I have bought all my brake parts here except rear cylinders.

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Hi Grumpy. It's great to hear you are going to keep your car stock. Putting down the road with an original antique car is such a magical feeling. You can join a club with other folks, dress in period clothing, enjoy the smiles of all types of people who are clearly charmed by the experience of seeing you on the road and all the memories they have of days gone by. Enjoy!

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest imported_woodwheels

Grumpieone;

Yes the block is a '41 Plymouth. These #'s went from P12 1001 to P12 535085 and were put into both P11 and P12, 1941 Plymouths. The distributor is from a 1939 Plymouth special delux P8. The '39 delux P7 had different advance start and max reading. The distributor you have had the identical 8 basic measurements of function for 1940 and 1941 even though their tag ID's were different.

For color go to Auto Color Library - The World's Largest Online Color-Chip Library and type in what year body you have.

For upholstery I recommend Cathy Schrack , kathys@slimgutgallery.com 717-463-3384

Jim Cook

1933 DP technical advisor

Dodge Brothers Club

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Hey GRUMPYONE!

Looks like you have a 41 Plymouth flathead six in your '36 Dodge. I'm sure, eventually, you will want to find a real "D2" engine for your vehicle but for now the Plymouth is gonna work. (Just make sure you find replacement parts for a 41 Plymouth engine if you need any). ;)

The "Serial Number" posted on a tag on the passenger's side front door hinge pillar is the important one for finding out the background of your car. The "Chrysler Historical Collection" has records for many Chrysler Corp products including your '36 Dodge D2. With that "Serial Number" you can have them look up (for a fee) your car's "Build Card" records which will tell you all about your D2, from the build date, the configuration, the color and interior trim, etc and also - where and how it was first shipped including possibly the dealer's name. All cool stuff! (Access info on that at: Walter P. Chrysler Museum and send them an email asking for more info if necessary).

You may also be able to do title searches in the states it passed through with different owners. Start that search in TN and work your way backward till you meet up with the "Build Record's" shipping info! Then you will know the complete history of the car. Many states title these older cars (usually before 1958 or so) using the engine number (which was harder to alter or change than the flimsy "Serial Number" tag), so because of that, you should be able to tell when and where the engine was changed to the Plymouth engine. If that state used the engine number for titling, the owner would have to have had the title changed when the engine was changed - usually just a minor inconvenience - but now costs the same as a title transfer, usually. That's also why it would be good to have the "Build Card" info before doing the title searches. The original D2 engine number is on the "Build Card".

Again, very glad to hear you are "KEEPING IT ORIGINAL". You will like yourself for that decision! ;)

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Hi again Grumpy - Amen to keeping it original! Your story reminds me of the history of our'36 Dodge D2 RS Coupe. When I found it in a wrecking yard in 1966 some dim bulb had attempted to rod it by dropping a '53 Olds Rocket V8 into it, cut the middle crossmember to let the Hydramatic through and then ran out of money and brains (not sure in which order). Fortunately the only damage he did to the body was to slice the firewall and mount a Dodge truck steering box on the outside of the frame. I hauled it home planning to dump the Olds and replace it with a nice little Valiant 273 V8. Soon discovered that it would be far smarter to restore it than to rod it as the body was all original and pretty solid. Fairly advanced thinking for an 18 year old with a lead foot and hormones. Turns out the wrecking yard had a number of '36 Dodges sitting in the weeds so we were able to get an original D2 motor and tranny as well as other parts that had gone missing.

Long story short, I got it going, put a quick paint job on it and drove it to college for a summer. Now it's being restored again - slowly as $$$ aren't plentiful - but it was my first car and I absolutely love it.

Stick with it. Someone out there has a D2 motor you can use. I have seen them on eBay and they usually go cheap when someone dumps them out of a car they are rodding. Good luck. It's a beautiful car!

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