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Ignition Switch on '25 116 Questions


MikeC5

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I'm a little confused about how the switch should be hooked up (it had been removed before I got the car and no labels on the wires). I do have the mechanic's manual but the switches shown on p. 71 are a little different. It is a Clum and I did a search and found a few mentions of a 4 position switch but no wiring help. In the back photo, I've pointed to the MAG terminal which doesn't appear to have been used. This also goes for the one above and to the right of mag (and says 'ooll', as far as I can tell). The other terminals (with screws) going from top clockwise are HEAD, ?, GRD, Horn, BAT, REAR, MAG and STD. I'm sure BAT gets -12V via the ammeter, HEAD is the L & R headlight, REAR is the tail light (via brake switch), HORN is horn wire and GRD is ground. I would assume the coil primary wire would go to MAG but it looks like it wasn't used. The car does have cowl lights so I'm guessing 'STD' could be for those? I tried testing the switch with an ohm meter but the results didn't answer the coil wire question. Also, I do not have a key for it but the switch does move (is this normal)?

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post-74074-143138480486_thumb.jpg

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According to the Book of Information, the four point switch wiring is:

Head - two wires (headlamps left and right) and left hand end of dimmer coil)

Dim - right hand end of dimmer coil

Bat - one wire (ammeter)

Rear- two wires (rear lamp and instrument board lamp

Coil (or Mag) - one wire (distributor or magneto)

Park - two wires (right and left parking lamps).

The book (may 1925)and corresponding illustration does not mention a horn terminal. I assume that the horn was isolated by the ignition switch and perhaps this was deleted in later production. The wiring diagram shows the horn going throught the ammeter.

The stop light wire is not connected to the light switch - it goes from the ammeter through the stop light switch.

The light switch will move without a key. When the key is in the off position it grounds out the ignition. There should be a Clum key number on the face of the lock barrel (DBXX) - check with Meyers, Romar or Ebay for a key.

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Thanks very much Tony. It sounds like that Book of Information is worth getting. I realize the points open and close the circuit of the coil primary. I'm just wasn't sure which terminals on the switch complete that circuit. I need to get a key to test it properly.

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  • 9 months later...

What is a 4-point switch? Is that what is in the 1926 DB 12-v? My switch goes to the left (Dim headlights), and to the right (Bright Headlights). The switch doesn't seem to be able to move to any other positions... Also, the switch on my dashboard is pointing up (not down as in the photo). The back of this switch looks more like the diagram of the 6v switch in my 'Mechanics' manual. The 12-v switch in the diagram doesn't have as many connection points on the back.

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Will have to snap some photos... will have to look to see if there is anything ledgible...haven't noticed anything specific but wasn't looking.

How would I find out what switch would have been original with my car? Is it worth the effort to try and find a 4-piont? Makes me think that finding a key for the ignition would be a bigger problem.

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Guest DBAcadia

Hi scliim, Yes,locate a 4 point switch making sure it's '24-'26 12v smaller diameter.'27 model 4 point switch is larger diameter barrel and will not fit the hole in dash. I need late '26 4 point switch,same smaller diameter,6v. Harder key to locate is trans lock,and I can't even disassemble the locked one on a '24 doodlebug tractor,which is locked,in order to find the key#. Any help with these, Brothers?

Edited by DBAcadia (see edit history)
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I was able to get an ignition Key from Meyers. I did have to take the switch apart to see the key number on the lock cylinder. Just carefully pry/bend up the metal tabs that hold it together.

There is a member here who can make tranny lock keys, but if I recall correctly, it did require removing the lock which requires removing the transmission cover. See this thread for more info:

http://forums.aaca.org/f143/transmission-lock-302791.html

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24 ign/headlight switch had larger outside diameter and mounted from the outside. 25-26 used the same hole but mounted from the inside and was accordingly smaller diameter. Both styles had with and without park lights. The lever is for the lights, the key is for the ignition. The key number should be on the outside next to the keyhole. Specials in most years came with the plated radiator shell, cowl lights, running board step plates, bumpers, etc. However any of those things could be ordered seperately on the Standards or omitted on the Specials.

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