Help Please!!!

[Guest Dirtybit927]

Hey buick general,

Im trying to get some info maybe you can help me out. My Dad just bought a 1937 Buick special a few weeks ago and we are trying to see what we can do as far as the gas . we've been told that we have to put some kind of additive for the gas cause those cars were made for Leaded gas...

[Thriller]

The compression on the straight 8 is relatively low, so you shouldn't get valve seat recession from using unleaded gas. It would typically only be an issue if the engine is working hard, like towing, or in mountains.

You probably want to try to stay away from ethanol if you can. In my part of the world, that means buying premium gas at the pumps.

Good luck. Your father may want to consider a membership in the Buick Club of America.

[mrspeedyt]

no other 'lead' additives are needed. just run 'whatever' gas. around here in the west it all seems to be pretty much the same... BAD! don't let it sit in the tank any longer than a few months... 'stabil' might help in making the gas last longer. this modern 'gas' has no life to it any more... some years ago 'old' gas used to last for years. I'm having to siphon out the gas of my cars after about 3 to 4 months and then putting it in my '89 beater (along with fresh gas) to use it up.

Edited March 17, 2011 by mrspeedyt (see edit history)

[michel88]

I am just wondering if high test gas has less ethanol than regular. I don't think ethanol does much to raise the octane so maybe high test would have less. The only car that I have that needs high test is my 63 Riviera with 10.25 to 1 compression. It would be worth it to me to use high test in my other low compression cars if it would avoid at least some ethanol.

I don't use any lead additives in any of my cars and you probably don't need it in your 37 Buick.

Edited March 17, 2011 by michel88 (see edit history)

[old-tank]

Ethanol is a cheap way to raise octane: the substance is cheap because it is subsidized and since it increases octane, the gasoline base does not need to be as highly refined (less cost).

During the National meet in Ames regular unleaded (no ethanol) was selling for 10 cents a gallon MORE than the higher octane fuel that had 10% Ethanol. My 55 Centurys that previously needed mid grade to prevent pinging, will run without pinging on the lowest grade 10%. (there are other driveabiliy problems though).

Willie

[bhambulldog]

I use a lead substitute gasoline additive, with every tank full.

M5012 - Lead Substitute

Amazon.com: Gunk M5012 Lead Substitute - 12 fl. oz.: Automotive

The same can be found on the shelf, at most gasoline retailers.

Another important additive; ZDDP for engine oil. ZDDP is lacking in modern engine oil. The lack of ZDDP will cause wear in the valve train. Include, with oil, at each oil change.

Amazon.com: ZDDPPlus ZDDP Engine Oil Additive Zinc Phosphorus 4oz.: Automotive

ZDDPlus™ -* Distributors - ZDDP Additive for Classic Cars - Agricultural Equipment & More

This ZDDP engine oil additive, can be found in parts stores.

Another additive product that I use; in gasoline and engine oil; Marvel Mystery Oil.

::Marvel Mystery Oil::

I've been using Marvel Mystery oil in my Buick for 41 years (and, every other car I've driven). Dad had a 1940 Cadillac that had a firewall mounted Marvel Mystery Oil reservoir; that, injected Marvel Mystery Oil into the intake. Marvel Mystery Oil can be found at part stores.

[Thriller]

I am just wondering if high test gas has less ethanol than regular. I don't think ethanol does much to raise the octane so maybe high test would have less. The only car that I have that needs high test is my 63 Riviera with 10.25 to 1 compression. It would be worth it to me to use high test in my other low compression cars if it would avoid at least some ethanol.

Here in Manitoba, premium is ethanol-free, at least for the moment. As a result, I pay dearly for it as a bit of peace of mind for the older Buicks. The Rainier gets regular, but it doesn't sit much since it's a daily driver.