EngineStartProcedure

[Guest mariob]

Hi ,

Is someone can help me?

What is the procedure for engine starting with 1928 Dodge Brothers Business Coupé. The engine is a Standard Six.

This car is already restored. I have reached the engine start step.

I have sparks on every spark plugs.

Carburetor seems to be flooding. Engine do not start...

1- How does the levers in steering wheel center must be set in order to start the engine?

2- How can I check the vacuum?

3- Where can I get shop manual for this model and operation manual also?

Thank you

[keiser31]

Ebay should have an instruction book for you.

[Guest 1930]

Disconnect the suction line off the canister ( the one that runs to your fuel tank ) and have someone crank the engine with your finger over the end, should feel a vacuum. Information or owners manuals do pop up on e-bay every so often, reprints are avail thru Myers early Dodge parts prob. There you will find alot of pertinant info for your car.

I believe I have a 28 standard six manual and can look further into your questions if no one else comes thru and you dont want to wait for a book to arrive in the mail.

[nearchoclatetown]

The AACA library has a manual. Give Chris an email or call him. Look at the top of this page for "AACA Library", click on it, go to the online catelog, type in "1928 Dodge". You are looking for a series 140 or 141 manual. Chris can copy and mail it to you for a few bucks. As to starting your fresh engine, you need to be sure timing is close. I use the static method, it's described in the manual. Are your valves set correctly?

[idrjoe_sandiego]

Disconnect the suction line off the canister ( the one that runs to your fuel tank ) and have someone crank the engine with your finger over the end, should feel a vacuum.

Jason, I'm not following you: I think he said his carb was flooding, so apparently the vacuum tank is not the problem. Or was this an answer to his question about how to check the vacuum? If you were referring to checking the vacuum, he could get more useful information by finding an available vacuum fitting on the intake manifold (or put a temporary "T" fitting on the intake where the vacuum tank gets its vacuum and hook up a vacuum gauge-should read a steady 18-21 inches vacuum on a healthy engine). But until you get the engine running, checking the vacuum reading is pretty much pointless. He would be better off checking the compression on all cylinders, something you CAN do with the engine NOT running.

It won't start if it's flooded. Make sure your choke is pulled out and visually confirm that the choke plate is actually closed. Updraft carbs usually won't start without a functional choke. Also, unlike a downdraft carb, DON'T depress the foot-feed to "clear" the flood. You only make it worse. Let all the fuel dry up, also pull the plugs and be sure that they are dry, properly gapped, and free of deposits.

You need only three things to make it run: Fuel, spark, and compression. Doug already mentioned timing--if the motor was just put back together, make sure your distributor is not 180 degrees out-this happens all the time.

Joe

Edited December 27, 2010 by idrjoe_sandiego (see edit history)

[Guest mariob]

Thanks for your advices it is greatly appreciated. For the compression reading it is not easy to do because spark plug holes are bigger than recenter model and I did not find any fittings to adapt with my compression reading kit. Any idea? What's reading should I get?

[Guest mariob]

Thank you for the info, I have checked and they have the owners manual, which is a begining. I will probably find something helpful in this manual. Tanks again

[Guest 1930]

Joe he asked how can I check the vacuum, that is what I answered

[Paul Bohlig]

1. How is fuel delivered to carb? By vac tank? By electric fuel pump? If fuel pump you need a regulator after pump to bring down to 2 psi. +/- Approximately. If by vac tank or regulated pump then check the fuel seat. Hold the pin gently against the seal with a finger and blow into fuel line. No air should pass. Float should float if immersed in boiling water

2. The firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4. double check your wires from distributor to plugs for correct order.

3. Plugs should be set to .020 inches. Torque to 37 ft. pounds.

4. There is an inspection hole for the flywheel on the drivers side about at the level where the splash pans end. Find with hood open. Small eliptical metal plate 2 screws; remove. The flywheel is marked DC?1&6 at upper dead centerof cylinders 1 and 6 and "IGN" at a point 4 degrees where spark should be set. Need strong light and once found mark the indents with white out or paint. Easier to turn with precision with plugs loosen to relieve compression. With this set on flywheel go to distributor and note where number 1 wire enters the cap. Put tape on edge of dist about where # 1 would land in a st. line down from the cap. Remoce dist cap Loosen the distributor so it will rotate. . The points should just open when the rotor is over the mark for # 1. Reset timing with timiing light later. If off 180 degrees you will see that # 1 will not be at all close when slightly rotating dist.

5. May want a second set of clean gapped spark plugs on hand for quick turnaround on initial start up. If carb and or ign is way off and the engine starts fittingly the plugs foul quickly and it takes time to clean. A second set reduces turnaround

6. To reduce the number of things happening at the same time you should be able to start the car with the carb float cover off and float out. Fill the reservior on the carb where the float is with gas. Eliminates fighting flooding while cranking.

7. These cars can be a very cold blooded to start when engine is stone cold. Choke. Use a little starter fluid, put palm of hand over carb inlet to aid suction and have spouse hit starter. If spouse fed up or not avail. use insulated pump pliers to make contact across the starter bolts inside the engine on firewall.

I have a '28 Std 6 also