'64 Riv Brake Shoes

[Paul K.]

I couldn't find an answer on a search so I am wondering if anyone has found a source for brake shoes available over the counter with the correct softer lining. I installed a set of NAPA shoes and the stopping power is horrible. The car stopped fine before the shoe replacement, they were just getting thin and worn. I have a couple of sources that can rebuild my shoes, but that would require two sessions of work as opposed to one if I had the new parts on hand.

What brand of brake shoes is everyone putting on their cars and getting good stopping? Thanks!

Edited November 5, 2010 by Paul K. (see edit history)

[Jim Cannon]

Did you have the arc of the shoe lining ground to match the inside diameter of the drums?

[Paul K.]

Yes. I have access to an Ammco brake shoe arcing machine. The pedal effort just feels like the brake lining is too hard. When you slam on the brakes, there is no chance of lock-up and no front end dive. Just no grip. I even pulled all the wheels and drums and inspected for even shoe to drum contact and there is no issue. In the 29 years I have owned this Riv, this is the third reline. Never has this been an problem. The last reline was 15 years ago with what I am assuming asbestos material. Jim, thanks for responding.

[Jim Cannon]

Did NAPA offer you several different quality levels of shoes? I have found the cheaper shoes to have softer lining. They don't last as long but they grip the drum better.

The higher end products last longer but are quite hard.

Check around and see if there are any truck brake places near you that can reline your old shoes. They can help you select a soft lining.

I used Wagner shoes the last time I did my brakes and they seem to work well.

[RivNut]

Even though they're not on the computer at Advance Auto, they were able to get me a set of their 2nd tier brake shoes/linings for my '64. They work really well.

When you had the drums turned, did the machine shop remove the glaze from them after they'd been turned? I had some brakes redone on a car on time (disk w/ anti-locks) and the machine shop didn't take the glaze off the rotors. I tried to ram the back of a pickup truck (unintenionally) and with both feet on the pedal, I couldn't even get the anit-locks to work. :eek: Fresh shorts, new attitude, and I used the emergency brake to get back to the shop. I told the guys what happend. They told me the machinist who did the rotors didn't finish the job by de-glazing them. Perhaps there is nothing for the linings to grab hold of.

[Paul K.]

Good points. I do my own brake work and yes the drums were de-glazed. Jim, NAPA had only one choice their True Stop (on the car now) which is a cheaper and probably a softer shoe. I have seen the Wagner "Thermo Quiet" shoes offered from O'reilly. Is that what you used? I will also check out the ones from Advance.

[Jim Cannon]

Good points. I do my own brake work and yes the drums were de-glazed. Jim, NAPA had only one choice their True Stop (on the car now) which is a cheaper and probably a softer shoe. I have seen the Wagner "Thermo Quiet" shoes offered from O'reilly. Is that what you used? I will also check out the ones from Advance.

It has been a number of years, but yes, I think this is what I used.

Perhaps you need to look at other things, like booster. Is it getting full vacuum? Are there any vacuum leaks? If you don't have full boost, this heavy car will be hard to stop.

[Paul K.]

The booster is new too. After owning this car for so long, when it needed a reline, I did everything because I drive the car regularly and things like the booster and master cylinder and wheel cylinders were on the car when I bought it in '81. I have also checked bore sizes on the replacement master cylinder and w/cylinders. I also swapped the master with with another one, no better braking.

[RivNut]

The booster is new too. After owning this car for so long, when it needed a reline, I did everything because I drive the car regularly and things like the booster and master cylinder and wheel cylinders were on the car when I bought it in '81. I have also checked bore sizes on the replacement master cylinder and w/cylinders. I also swapped the master with with another one, no better braking.

There are two separate master cylinder and power booster systems. One is the Delco-Morraine system and the other is the Bendix System. The two are not compatible. If you've swapped the m/c from one system to the booster from the other system, your brakes won't work owrth a plug nickle. The only way I can tell you for sure to see if you've swapped them is for you to look in a chassis manual and compare them. The chassis manual has a separate section for each system. As far as I know, there's no external ID for you to look at.

[petelempert]

I got mine through CARS. Bought the entire rebuild kit. No squawks. They are a little more "grabby" at low speed compared to my other cars but they sure stop a big car with confidence. PRL

[Paul K.]

So what you are saying is the two different master cylinders look the same from the outside but are different inside? They both have a 1" bore and it is a single piston type, what could be different? Thanks for any suggestions.

[RivNut]

Yes, They will physically bolt together but are not compatible. The problem lies in the push rod that goes from the brake pedal to the booster. If you have decent pedal travel, then you're NOT mismatched.

Ed