Used Carz

[padgett]

In Florida there are times to run, not walk.

Out of State title. Have had to deal with two since here. Both took over a year to straighten out and last one needed professional assistance in finding the PO.

Salvage/COD (certificate of destuction) title. Cannot be registered. Period

Salvage/Rebuilt title: Has pieces from at least two other cars used to repair a "totaled" car. Supposed to have a sticker on the driver's door jamb.

"A little rust" (to someone from Ohio maybe). The nice thing about Central Florida cars is that unless driven on the beach they usually have no rust. This means bolts generally can be unscrewed without breaking. You get used to it.

"Needs Fuel Pump" This is often the case in a car that sits fr a year or two with a quarter tank of gas. It goes to gum and varnish and clogs the pump. In auden daze you sloshed some muriatic acid around in the tank for a while to clean it out but the plastic baffles in new cars may not like it. When needful I figure on pump, filter, sender and a tank cleaning. $150 if you DIY, $500+ for a professional.

"A/C needs charge". Right. Means it has a leak and at 20 years is probably compressor seals which means a minumum of compressor, accumulator/dryer, and oriface tube. $200 DIY if you have the tools, $800-$1000 for a prefessional.

"Transmission slips" $500 for a jukyard trans (if 4T60, look for one from a 1991 Bonneville) $2k for GM reman if you can find one.

These are the high dollar items for a Reatta and assumes alll of the glass is good. Engines last a very long time but be leary of a 90 with low oil pressure - some dropped cam bearings.

"Doesn't run": have to assume at least two of the three mechanical problems above - if it does not run you cannot check much.

BTW when I say "professional" I mean quality work by someone who knows what they are doing.

Frankly, in late 2010 there are enough nice cars around that one that looks nice and everything works will probable cost less even short term than one that does not. "Life is too short to deal with rust".

[wws944]

It is a good list. I've mentioned it before, and will say again - reserve about 10% of what the car cost *new* to fix up all the stuff the PO neglected.

Even my Reatta, which spent 18 almost undriven years safely tucked in my parents garage, has needed a surprising number of things. I will be under that 10% number by the time I am through, but not by a lot...

[padgett]

So $2600 is a good ballpark number and if sitting for a while will probably need tires as well plus a radiator flush, plus a major tune up (oil, filter, plugs and O2), plus a tranny oil change. Just figure on everything in the maintence department.

[KDirk]

Can't argue with any of this. I will add that if your budget and storage space permits it, to pickup spares for the unique and semi-unique parts that are more commonly needed. Vent windows, electronic modules, interior trim plastics that are prone to breakage, IPC's for 90/91 models, and CRT's for 88/89 models. That's my short list. Given enough room, a spare windshield and rear window, side glass and front lower grille (road debris can go right through the plastic slats) are good to have as they are not exactly a dime a dozen and usually take some lead time to find and have shipped in.

If you have plenty of room and don't have to worry about a spouse or city code official riding your butt, buy a parts car and store it on site. Then everything is stored and ready to go if you need it. Added bonus is a complete set of body panels (if not wrecked) and interior parts if they aren't already trashed.

KDirk

[DAVES89]

It is a good list. I've mentioned it before, and will say again - reserve about 10% of what the car cost *new* to fix up all the stuff the PO neglected.

Even my Reatta, which spent 18 almost undriven years safely tucked in my parents garage, has needed a surprising number of things. I will be under that 10% number by the time I am through, but not by a lot...

I would say that unless you can do it yourself, go 20%. There are a number of "gotchas" that I did after I got my first one. I changed all the hoses, serpentine belt, flushed the brakes, replaced the valve cover, oil pan and plenum gaskets, as well as thermostat, plugs and wires.

Then as I learned some more, the Padgett coil upgrade, and started to build back up inventory of known to be needed Reatta parts.

[wws944]

So $2600 is a good ballpark number and if sitting for a while will probably need tires as well plus a radiator flush, plus a major tune up (oil, filter, plugs and O2), plus a tranny oil change. Just figure on everything in the maintence department.

Right. If the car did not come with any service records, you have to assume that nothing has been done since the day it was built. So right off the top, all fluids and filters should be suspect. Engine oil, coolant, tranny, brake fluid, PS fluid, air filter, etc. Tires can run $350-500 alone. (On cars with 'interference' engines, the timing belt(s) should also be done ASAP. Fortunately the Reatta does not have this issue.)