Jump to content

1923 model T

wm morath

Recommended Posts

Just purchased a 23 T that was in the middle of a resto.The engine was overhauled?? and tranny bands?? were overhauled and replaced.My problem is the engine turns over very hard I took the plugs out put some kroil in the cylnders and crank it over .I even hooked a 12 v battery to the starter the engine still turned over slow ,and once I put the plugs in it wont hardly turn over at all.I have sent off for a manual .I know nothing about a T ,butI was wondering if I had the stop handle in the correct position even though the T doesnt rock fwd or rev when cranking.If anyone can help me I would appreceiate it Tks Bill

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good morning Wm

The "stop handle" or hand brake lever should be pulled all the way back past vertical. If the linkages are properly adjusted, this will disengage the clutch, put the transmission in neutral, and engage the hand brake through the rear drums.

If the lever is in this position and there is still considerable drag when attempting to turn over the engine, it may be due to incorrect linkage and/or band adjustment — you hope — or a faulty starter, or something bad going on in the engine.

Suggest you click on over to the discussion forum at Model T Ford Club of America ,and ask your question there. Model Ts are a passion for that crowd, and you will find plenty of knowledgeable help on the forum. Also suggest you get some reference books on the Model T (search for "recommended books" on the MTFCA forum) and get yourself more acquainted with the peculiarities of the Model T. Even for a car guy of many years experience with other brands, the T packs a lot of surprises and many assumptions that need to be unlearned.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've found that people seem to be good about setting neutral on the high-low pedal / band, but often neglect, or incorrectly adjust, the three little fingers on the clutch. If your hand brake is engaging and the clutch is still in high, that's what you're fighting. Do like the other guy said -- jack it up and release the hand brake just enough to cause the brakes at the drums to let go, but still have it in neutral, and see if the rear wheels turn.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Silverghost

I agree many people re-build engines that are far too tight !

This could be the bearings; both rod & mains~

OR ...

The piston, and or rings.

You might want to use some plastigauge to check your bearing gaps.

Take off bearing cap put plastigauge on top of crank & replace cap & torque.

Remove cap and measure the plastigauge squash to the package to see what you have.

Go from there If this is in fact your problem.

Good Luck!

Edited by Silverghost (see edit history)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Create New...