1951 buick restore/custom

[Guest mechanicdave]

I am helping a buddy get his 51 going, and we would like to convert over to a 12.6volt system but, I've been having trouble finding info or parts to convert.

will I have to do it from scratch or there kit's or some thing to help with such a task?:confused:

[Rusty_OToole]

I've converted cars from 6 to 12 volt but I wouldn't do it again. It's a lot easier and cheaper to fix whatever is wrong with the 6 volt.

If you change to 12 volt, you have to go thru a lot of work and expense, then you have to fix whatever was wrong anyway. You might as well just fix what's wrong, and leave it at that.

There is no kit. You have to do everything from scratch. If you don't know what you are doing and have no electrical or electronic skills it's best to leave it alone.

And PLEASE don't listen to any random jackass who tells you it's easy to change to 12 volts. They don't know what they are talking about. They disappear once your car is all torn up and leave you holding the bag.

[Guest mechanicdave]

Hey thanks Rusty_O'TOOL I HAVE PLENTY OF EXPERIENCE AND THERE AINT NO PROBLEMS EXCEPT OLD WIRING. MY BUDDY WANTED TO PUT THE TWELVE VOLTS FOR A STEREO SYSTEM. AND I THOUGHT IT WOULD HAVE BEEN NICE TO CHANGE THE IGNITION TO ELECTRIC FROM THE STANDARD.

SO MY NEXT QUESTION IS, WHAT IF ANY ARE MY OPTIONS FOR SUCH A CONVERSION.

[Pete Phillips]

For what it's worth, I wholeheartedly agree with Rusty.

I admit that I'm a purist. I once bought a '54 Chevrolet that had been converted to 12 volts by the previous owner. When I tried to sell it a few years later, there were some potential buyers who just walked away when they saw the 12 volts. Today, I would do the same thing--walk away from a car that's supposed to be 6 volts and has been converted to 12. So I guess some of it depends on who you expect to sell the car to, when it comes time to sell--which may be many years from now.

If you convert to 12 volts, are you going to replace all of the gauges, and if so, where are you going to get them from? They don't make 12 volt kits for 1951 Buicks--not that I'm aware of anyway.

Pete Phillips

Sherman, TX

1948 Roadmaster 4-dr

1949 Super station wagon

1950 Roadmaster 2-dr. ht.

1959 Electra 2-dr. ht.

1962 Electra 225 4-dr. ht.

1963 Wildcat conv. 4-spd.

[Guest mechanicdave]

I'd like to thank both of you for your advice it helped me to convice my body to keep the vehicle completly stock

[Guest]

I'd like to thank both of you for your advice it helped me to convice my body to keep the vehicle completly stock

Dave, for more information and further discussion check out in the General Discussion section the thread "Two 6 volt batteries for more cranking speed" by 1936 Ford Truck

The discussion starts out about hard starting, but eventually by the end covers 12V conversions, and why most of us here don't recommend it.

Don

[Rusty_OToole]

Happy to oblige. If you have any trouble keeping the 6 volt system working we will be here.

Do you have a repair manual? Original factory repair manuals are available reasonable online or at auto flea markets, usually $25 to $50 and are worth their weight in gold to a good mechanic.

[Guest mechanicdave]

YES SIR MR. RUSTY THAT WAS ONE OF THE FIRST THINGS WE BAUGHT THROUGH KEMPER . AND THANKS FOR YUOR HELP.

[Guest Bob Call]

Rusty is correct about keeping the 6V system. 6V systems are sensitive to high resistance. Voltage is electrical pressure, think of it as water pressure. It doesn't take much resistance to stop the flow of low pressure water. Same with electricity. The usual culprit in a 6V system is corroision in the cables and connections. First thing to do is replace battery cables with new cables of the proper size (0 or 00 gague) and be sure that all connections are clean bare metal to metal. Old 6V cables can have corroision inside the insulation that raises resistance to the point that the voltage drop is great enough that the starter and other accessories will not operate properly.

[Guest Kingoftheroad]

Another suggestion,

They make specialty batteries for situations like this. The 12/6 battery is two 6v batteries in one case. This battery allows you to hook up things like your starter to a 12v side (providing you changed to a 12v starter) for easier starting and the rest of your accessories would be hooked up to the dividing post of the battery, giving your accessories only 6v and it all works fine. There are a couple of batteries like this..

[Guest CaptainGTX]

Even though you didn't ask about starting difficulties, I'll second what Bob Call said about battery cables. I put heavy duty cables on my 53 Dodge hemi convertible - actually heavier than stock, and the engine turns over readily. My solution in the olden days (also with a 53 Dodge) was to use an 8 volt combine battery, which spun the starter over rapidly, but also necessitated replacing all the light bulbs about every 6 months. Wish someone had told me then about the importance of good battery cables.

[Guest]

Someone should have told you about six/twelve batteries, but even at that it's still a band aid approach.

Don

[poci1957]

Good to see others echo the idea of staying with 6 volt. There seems almost a knee-jerk desire for people to change over. As was perfectly stated, someone will always strongly recommend this but not be available when there is a problem.

I also have understood that the use of correct 6V battery cables is the essential element in making the system work properly. Glad you chose to stay stock, Todd

[critterpainter]

6-12 batteries are a band-aid and are expensive. 6 volt with a quality battery and good cables should resolve any problems.

IF the owner wants a 12v system, a bolt-on 12v starter with solinoid is available from Bobs Automobilia 805-434-2963

The ONLY guage on a Buick that is voltage sensitive is the fuel guage. It will instantly fry. The temp-oil and amp guages don't care. The clock and radio will have issues with 12 volts.

Bill