beginners stupid questions about air intake and oil

[astroguy]

In reference to a 1925 dodge car.

Part 1

Searching and searching for the air intake. There is no opening anywhere I can find.............................. where is it?the carburator is completely closed.

part 2 How to get fuel into the vacuum tank on the firewall?

Part 3 Where is the oil dipstick? how to check?

see, i told you, stupid questions.....................

Thanks for your replies.

[Guest John1918]

1. The air intake on the carb goes through a pressed steel tube through the block between cylinders 2 &3 to an area under the exhaust manifold on the other side of the engine. For summer running open the twist valve which is part of the carb to let in cool air.

2. fuel comes from the tank via a 1/4" copper tube, along the inside of the chassis rail, up the fire wall and into one of the holes in the top of the vacuum tank.

3. No dipstick but a wire sticking up vertically out of the block near the starter generator. The other end of the wire goes to a float which floats on top of the oil inside the sump and there are two marks on the block to indicate full and very low.

John

[Guest DodgeKCL]

I think he meant how does one get fuel "manually" into the vacuum tank to start the engine without waiting for the engine vacuum to do it. I believe the only way is to undo the screws around the edge of the top of the tank and lift up the top. Then pour gas directly into the tank but just about the half full "mark". This will start and run the engine for some time. ??????????

[hwellens]

Most vacuum tanks have a 1/4" pipe plug in the top. Take it out and put about a pint on gas in with a small funnel. Put plug back in and open the valve to the carburetor. Start the engine and all should work as long as there are no air leaks on the vacuum tank or fuel line to the gas tank.

[Guest John1918]

I pinched a small kitchen funnel from the kitchen that fits neatly into the bung hole on top of the vacuum tank. It stays fitted upside down on top of the oilcan underneath the vac tank, you never know when you or somebody else will need it. John

[72caddy]

Astroguy,

The only stupid question is one that is not asked....

I tihnk you will find this forum a wealth of information and full of helpful people. Keep the questions coming

[Guest TonyAus2]

1. The air intake on the carb goes through a pressed steel tube through the block between cylinders 2 &3 to an area under the exhaust manifold on the other side of the engine. For summer running open the twist valve which is part of the carb to let in cool air.

2. fuel comes from the tank via a 1/4" copper tube, along the inside of the chassis rail, up the fire wall and into one of the holes in the top of the vacuum tank.

3. No dipstick but a wire sticking up vertically out of the block near the starter generator. The other end of the wire goes to a float which floats on top of the oil inside the sump and there are two marks on the block to indicate full and very low.

John

Clarification required here (from experience). The oil level should be BETWEEN the two marks. Filling to the top mark will result in oil being blown out the breather. Five litres or imperial equivalent is about right.

Tony

(back under another name after logon difficulties)

1925 DB Roadster

1954 Peugeot 203 Commerciale

[astroguy]

Thanks for all the info, found the wire indicating oil level, and it floats so there is oil in the engine.

There are three pipes on the vacuum tank, one from the tank, one to the carb and one that looks like an overflow. I did remove the overflow pipe and there is a very small hole inside, too small for any sized funnel, not sure how to get fuel in the tank. More examination needed.

Found the air intake, cast into the manifold, interesting location. Used that with some engine start fluid with no results, yet...

Sticky gooey fluid on the floor, looks like water pump shaft or some thing is leaking. will have a much better look this weekend, thanks agian for all the help.

[dwollam]

If there is not a 1/4" pipe plug on top of the pump, Then remove the fuel line that comes from the gas tank from the rear of the car. It has a large fitting under which is a screen. Take that out and clean it, or remove it if running an inline filter. You can pour gas in that hole as well. Be careful screwing that back in as I have seen a lot of tanks cracked from over doing it.

[28 Chrysler]

There should be a line from the fuel tank to the canister, a line from the canister to the carb, and a small line from the canister to the intake manifold.

[Guest DodgeKCL]

I had a car with a vacuum tank on it and I still say the best and quickest way to get the car running is to remove all the screws around the perimeter of the top and slide the top over to one side and pour in some gas. I did this several times over the years when troubleshooting the fuel system.

The tank works like a carb in that it has a float to stop the flow of gas from the gas tank when the vacuum tank is about 3/4 full. The float rises on the top of the gasoline and pushes a needle valve closed and kills the vacuum stopping any more gas being sucked into the vacuum tank from the car's gas tank. Meanwhile the gasoline falls downhill ,by simple weight, to the carb float chamber where the same action takes place to prevent the carb from overfilling. A metal float rises on the top of the gas in the carb's float chamber and pushes on a needle valve which plugs the gas line leading into the carb.

However because of poor fit and crude castings of those days, it's recommended you install a petcock on the bottom of the vacuum tank so you can shut off the gas line leading down to the carb. Many cars already have them installed by previous owners. Left for any considerable time the gas drains from the vacuum tank down to the carb and bleeds out through poor fittings and empties the system and you have to remove the vacuum tank top and prime the system again. Ad nauseum, ad infinitum, until a petcock is installed on the vacuum tank output line.