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Cleaning aluminum bumbers


Guest Richard D

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YES!! The Wheels have the Machined Ridges that are on the Factory Produced Wheels. They had not done a Reatta/Riveria wheel before. They were able to computerly (lack of a term) scope the wheel as it was not in the computer database. Once they were able to do this, their lathe was able to re-machine it. They will not take a wheel that has had AIRLINE solvents on it as it will damage the Diamond bit (A $12,000.00 Bit) due to a gooey build up when re-machining (makes sense). Their Machine is also a $250,000.00 Lathe. The name is "Hub Cap Heaven" and here is the web site Hubcap Heaven

Nice! $100/wheel is a bargain compared to around here.

BTW, in the video on their web site, it looks like the wheel the guy is taking off the lathe is a Reatta wheel. Wonder if it is one of yours?

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Guest Corvanti
Are you referring to *Aircraft Remover* John F.

i picked up a spray can of that a few years ago. can't say i liked the results in use, but at the bottom of the "directions", it stated: "Do not use on aircraft".:rolleyes:

sorry for going OT, but that's one of those disclaimers that crack me up!!!:P

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Guest Furman83

To answer the stripper question, YES, they will not do wheels that have used Aircraft stripper on the wheels. I guess it penetrates the metal with a film and when they turn them it gums up the diamond bit( I would not want to replace an expensive bit).

Yea, Ronnie from ROJ noticed that the wheel looked like a Reatta wheel. It was not on the web site before I took them in. Not sure if it is mine, but maybe. They will not help us on the center caps, darn IT !

They were excited to have mine as they did not have the computer guidelines to re-machine them. I told them yesterday that I was bragging on their work on my wheels. They were happy. I picked up my front wheels yesterday and was not disappointed. I now have basically 4 new wheels!!. PS Sales tax here is 9.25% (but no State income Tax, got to love that)

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Handmedown,

The only way to "fix" the distortion in the bumper trim is to completely remove it and use a heat gun (but not too aggressively) to return it to it's original shape. That plastic does have a memory and will straighten up nicely except for collision deformities by applying some heat.

Also, when reinstalling, start from the center and work your way outward to the sides of the bumper. This will eliminate slack in the rub strip where it has to contour at the corners. Finally, do not over-tighten the nuts especially near the corners, or they will "dimple". Just my experience with them.

Obviously this is a lot easier with the whole bumper off the car.

KDirk

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This is what Jim taught me too. He also taught me that you can try keeping it on the car and let it sit in the sun until the trim is soft and hot, loosen all nuts and then as Kevin said start in the center and move outward evenly on each side. The body shop didn't do this quite right and so mine looks perfect when cold, but gets a little distortion when it expands. I'll eventually get around to making it better.

Handmedown,

The only way to "fix" the distortion in the bumper trim is to completely remove it and use a heat gun (but not too aggressively) to return it to it's original shape. That plastic does have a memory and will straighten up nicely except for collision deformities by applying some heat.

Also, when reinstalling, start from the center and work your way outward to the sides of the bumper. This will eliminate slack in the rub strip where it has to contour at the corners. Finally, do not over-tighten the nuts especially near the corners, or they will "dimple". Just my experience with them.

Obviously this is a lot easier with the whole bumper off the car.

KDirk

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