Jump to content

Recommended Posts

In chatting with Larry, he tells me that buying and installing the replacement gear in the odometer is only addressing the symptom, not the problem. Does anyone know if you can buy a rebuilt unit or do you have to try and repair the one we have currently? I was hopping if I could find a rebuilt unit then I could hang onto the one that's in the car for future use

Regards

Glen

Link to post
Share on other sites

The stopped odometer is the symptom. The cause is the gear has disintegrated in most cases. The fix is to replace the gear. I have done four of them. If the gear doesn't fix the problem then the problem is the transmitter. The MANUAL tells how to check for a bad transmitter. All you have to do is look at the gear to tell if it is bad. Every Chrysler TC has the problem at about 64K miles. Good luck.

mike

Link to post
Share on other sites

Sometimes problems are caused by design or manufacturing deficiencies. In this case it was an excess. The plastic gears are a molded reinforced plastic that we sometimes refer to as Nylon. They run very well without lube. The factory used a grease that hardens like a rock. Between the gear weakening with age, and the oil drying out of the grease base causing it to harden. The gear is broken. I do not know what lube is best to use. Lou

Link to post
Share on other sites

I did an article on the this for the TC America newsletter, using information that Ed Peters, one of the engineers on the TC project in Italy provided. The speedometer heads were sourced in Japan not just for the TC, but all Chrysler speedometer heads from that era. The first few thousand used a bad lubricant which gums up the small white or blue gears. If the lubricant is on the rollers, they too will fail. We get in a number of units where owners try to repair their units just using the gear and end up breaking the connections on the circuit board or fail to remove and replace the lubricant on the rollers.

In addition, probably the MOST common way the gears break are when an owner pushes in the reset button for the trip meter and the bezel around the instrument cluster is warped and pushes against the button upward. If the button is pushed in on a sharp angle, the gears can strip. I always recommend that that bezel be pushed down when pushing the button in, to avoid the stripping of the gear.

These issues have been addressed in the TC America newsletters several times over the past few years.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Larry,

I noticed there seemed like there was some kind of interferience created when the reset was used. Thanks for the explaination. I still don't know what is the best grease to use on the plastic gears. I have been using Lubriplate. Can you recommend anything better. ~ ~ ~ That also includes the plastic gears on the Top Pull-Down. TKS, Lou

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you mtworkshop

That is good info to know, my unit is defcective also.

I have a copy of the instructions that was on line to change out the unit, and will share it, but I am not the owner or writer and do not know if it copyright protected, if the writer will give permission , will be glad to share.

J.M. Derden

Link to post
Share on other sites

jderden,

That seems awfully silly. Did anyone give you Copyright privledges when you copied it for yourself.??

The intent of this forum is to share. There are no "Copyright" rules. This is not a "Bureaucratic extension of homeland security. It is just:

FRIENDS HELPING FRIENDS. Lou

Edited by LouZ (see edit history)
Link to post
Share on other sites

LOu

If you understood the copywrite laws you would not ask such a "stuipd" question. Under the law I can copy for my own personnal use, but cant sell or dispearse it to general use, with out permission. Why dont you just shut up and quit showing haw stuipd you are.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey guys It's entertainment time again.!.!

Well I guess it's my turn to field the negative wrath of " mr short fuse ".

Bless his heart,. It seems like he does have that problem.

But I Gotta Tell Ya.

It's hard to take somone seriously when they call you Stupid and don't know how to spell it.

Now to the crux of my statement:

A negative person always seems to find a reason to not be helpful to another; Whereas a positive type would have posted the link and would not have had any thought of "Copyright", or any thing else that would hinder the basic helpful attitude inherent to most of us...

Y'All have a nice day now & enjoy, Y'Hear,, Lou

Link to post
Share on other sites

If I may get on to the subject at hand... Lou, the lubricant for the pull-down gear is red lithium - available at quality auto shops in a black metal and cardboard tub about the size of hand grease remover or the old wheel bearing grease containers. It is around $5 or $6 - twice the price of the cheap stuff around here. Pretty much the only reason the gear or housing breaks is because a soft top is not adjusted properly. Note that there were at least 4 different versions of the pull down assembly and they do not necessarily interchange. The clear ones from GM are too thin, need to be filed to fit, and fracture easily. Someone not too long ago bragged about pulling five from a junkyard so he could keep on fixing his. It would be a whole lot easier to just have the top adjusted properly....

For the odometer gears, I do not personally do ANY repairs on odometers. All the ones sent to us are done professionally by a shop that has been in business since the 1960's. For what it's worth, they tell me that they use "special" lubricant that is designed for the gears and remove old grease from the rollers. The ones they use are not the cheap ones that are available on the internet. They compared theirs to the cheap ones I bought on the internet and there is a noticeable difference in thickness and texture. At LEAST half of the units we get in have been previously repaired by a non-professional, and we have done hundreds over the past 15 years. Some fail at 15,000 miles and some fail at 250,000 miles. I believe the angle of the bezels causes more problems than the lubricant gumming up, but I only have 150 TCs, not thousands to compare, and issues in the low humidity desert are different than issues which happen in humid areas. Around here finding a non-warped dash bezel is only possible if there is a dash mat on it, so I recommend that the bezel is pushed down with one hand while pushing in the reset button with the other hand.

Link to post
Share on other sites

It is better to repair your old unit than leave it not working. With many repair shops, emissions stations, dealers and insurance companies reporting mileage to CarFax and other agencies (for a fee) a non-functioning odometer would show up as a box "c" and devalue your car. The reason we only repair odometers is that we do not have to report that to the Feds. If someone purchases a used odometer head it has to be reported as a "true mileage unknown" title. AZ laws are very strict on this and every aspect of dismantling vehicles. Nothing can be done without reporting the VIN to the proper agencies. Bonding, licensing and insurance is very expensive to run a legitimate business and we have to report monthly to the state on all activity.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, I sure as heck understand the noticeable difference in thickness and texture that Larry speaks of.:eek: Sorry, I was just being stuupid caus I wuz out drinkin twonight on the Vegas stripe:D Drownin my sauros aways.

Nameless for feer of reprisal

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...

Istated in the first place, as long as it is not sold or published under another name. i made the statement so everyone would understand that I did not own it and was acknowledging that it belonged to the orginial publisher. louz tried to spin it to make fun of me, because I will not submit to his abuse and talking down to everyone. The information was at that time available to everyone in the group, including Louz if he wanted it. I just will not take credit for someone elses good work, and wanted everyone to know it was available but was someone elses work. I will certainly supply to anyone that needs it and provide the name of the originial owner to anyone of you guys that would like it, it just believe that the one that did all the work should get all the credit, he did a very good job.

Thanks, Jderden

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi folks,

I was doing some looking around for an answer to the odometer problem problem and unfortunately didn't find what I was looking for, however, I did find a website for odometer repair. Here it is: www.odometergears.com. They are a repair shop and claim to be able to repair odometers.

There was an article with pictures and instructions on the web, but's disappeared. I believe there was a thread on this site about a year ago. Good hunting.

Edited by d_voitel (see edit history)
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 months later...

So does anyone have the directions on the fix of the odometer- mine also went out. Is this something that your basic auto repair shop could do? Do you need special TC parts, or what? Sorry, not much of a auto mechanic type- appreciate any help.

Link to post
Share on other sites

There is another thread just before this one I started a few weeks ago. Anyone wanting the instructions for the odometer gear repair send me a PM with your e-mail address. You can also post it here, but most people do not want to do that. I will send the info asap.

Read the posts people!!

Bob]

Link to post
Share on other sites

When I bought my '91, the odometer wasn't working and had to be repaired in order to pass MD inspection. The Chrysler dealer either fixed the odomater in house or sent it out for repair in order to pass inspection. It's now been two years and it's still working fine. Unfortunately I didn't ask how it was repaired. I paid the bill and went merrily on my way. The car gets looks whenever I take it out for a ride.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 9 months later...
I did an article on the this for the TC America newsletter, using information that Ed Peters, one of the engineers on the TC project in Italy provided. The speedometer heads were sourced in Japan not just for the TC, but all Chrysler speedometer heads from that era. The first few thousand used a bad lubricant which gums up the small white or blue gears. If the lubricant is on the rollers, they too will fail. We get in a number of units where owners try to repair their units just using the gear and end up breaking the connections on the circuit board or fail to remove and replace the lubricant on the rollers.

In addition, probably the MOST common way the gears break are when an owner pushes in the reset button for the trip meter and the bezel around the instrument cluster is warped and pushes against the button upward. If the button is pushed in on a sharp angle, the gears can strip. I always recommend that that bezel be pushed down when pushing the button in, to avoid the stripping of the gear.

These issues have been addressed in the TC America newsletters several times over the past few years.

There is another thread just before this one I started a few weeks ago. Anyone wanting the instructions for the odometer gear repair send me a PM with your e-mail address. You can also post it here, but most people do not want to do that. I will send the info asap.

Read the posts people!!

Bob]

may have to fwroger@gmail.com I am new to this site (first day)

and find it helpful. Thank you again fwroger

         Please send whatever information you 
Link to post
Share on other sites

Fwroger, had an accident last week, the wife (as we affectionately call them in Newfoundland) came down to my rec room last week and lovingly said "this room could do with a refresh", well guess what I am doing now!

Anyway I will send you the instructions this PM, assuming I can find my computer home.

What can you do without them????

BTW welcome to the site, hope you will visit us often. Hope you enjoy your TC as much as we do.

Bob

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...