Crunch

[DAVES89]

Well the car [black/tan] with the gremlins just was involved in an accident. I was in the right lane of a two lane road and the lady to my left decided she wanted to turn right, thru my lane, right into the Taco Bell. Problem was is that the lane I was in was snow covered. I could not stop fast enough and hit her in her right rear corner. I only cut the plastic bumper on her car, but damaged the hood, and the front trim piece directly between the head lights. Both headlights work but won't pop up because the hood is smashed down. As my car seperated I caught the drivers side cornering lamp and will need that as well.

We called the police and she got a ticket.

I have the car at the repair shop [he's done work for us in the past] and he should have a quote for me tomorrow. The womans insurance is State Farm.

How reasonable are they?

My car is a 1989 from Arizona [this would be the first Wi. winter], recent paint and very clean, but has 190000 on the odometer.

[Guest Richard D]

I have State Farm on my 90 coupe and when the windsheild was cracked by a truck dropping a rock they had a new Pilkington windsheild installed the next day at my home. The cost was over $1,700.00 and State Farm did not even blink. I hope you get the same treatment.

Richard.

PS I have 141,000 miles on mine.

[Ronnie]

Dave, sorry to hear that. I know you have worked hard to get that car into good shape. If the parts damaged are just bolt on parts maybe you could replace them yourself, then get a body shop do the paint work and put some of the money from the insurance in your pocket.

Remember, her insurance company has to pay you for the estimated cost of the damages. Not what it actually costs you to fix it. Also don't let them try to tell you that you have to take it to someone they contract with to get the work done. You don't!

[DAVES89]

Thanks for the help. Went thru something similar last year with my wifes car.[someone backed into her]. I got quotes for repairs to the tune of $1500.00 on her car and settled with the client for cash for $1200.00. Repairs to that car came in at about $1000.00

I called Manikmekanic and he has what I need in a dark blue. so it looks like I can drive down and we will swap the hood. I will then go to the body shop and drop it off for them to install the rest of the parts and then the repaint.

Hope it goes as smooth as I am making it sound.

What is bothersome is that I don't have another car and will have to use the red/tan until the black/gray is done.

Edited December 14, 2009 by DAVES89 (see edit history)

[Guest mhuffy]

Sorry to hear about your wreck. Good luck with the insurance company.

Is there a good way to determine the value of our cars? One thing I fear is in an accident the insurance company will total my car and I will be left holding the bag. I realize that these are not the best invenstments; however, I do have a few dollars in my cars and would hate to have somone, just as described above, take it all away in a moment of bad judgement.

Marc

[KDirk]

Dave,

Really sorry to hear about the wreck. How stupid, that the other driver attempted an illegal turn in those road conditions (or any road conditions of course). At least she got cited and I assume her insurance is being assessed for the damage. Even at that, I would still be burning mad if it were my car, as there was no reason for it other than her irresponsible driving. You can't even call that an accident, it was an intentional maneuver that backfired and it was just flat out wrong; you got nicked as a result of it.

Marc -

Regarding insured value, best I can recommend is to fully document everything you have "in" the car: new parts, paint/body work, labor you've paid for repairs if applicable and take lots of photos inside and out. Also try to find ads/auctions etc. of cars in comparable age/miles/condition to yours that show a favorable value and print these out for your file. These may help you support the argument on the the value vs. Kelley or NADA book prices which are both very low.

This was what my agent more or less told me to do. While I doubt I would ever get the full true cost of my car back in a claim (if it were a total loss) I should be able to convincingly argue that it is worth more than book value based on the restoration work I have done thus far.

The only other way is to get an agreed value policy (you agree on an insured value and premium with the carrier) and then if it gets wrecked beyond repair, you get the agreed value paid out. These policies come with various caveats, probably mileage limitations and some restrictions on use, but may be your best bet.

Then there are collector policies. I know they have been discussed here in the past, and I know that the mileage/use restrictions are more stringent than they would be on agreed value coverage. Also, only a handful of specialty insurers write collector policies, where agreed value policies are written by many major companies.

KDirk

[Booreatta]

Dave in case you dont have a copy of the old car Price Guide here is the values that they list for a 1989 Coupe. I will assume that your car is in number 3 condition much simular to mine the value is listed at $6750.00, number 2 condition $10,500. This is what I would try to hold the insurance company to if they try to total you car. I am not a big fan of insurance companys and their methods. They need to look a replacement cost to settle with you. Hold out and you will win, they relay on the fact that you need a car, but make them rent you one till they can see things your way. Good luck

Chuck

[DAVES89]

Thanks for the info. The repairs while at first look appeared to be minimal, are starting to mount up.

The body shop I use says he needs 14 hours plus matierals to paint/install what was damaged.

Looks like I will need a right side headlight motor, hood, that front trim piece below hood, between headlights and rests on bumper, both cornering lamps, metal trimpiece that wraps the headlight, and the shroud inside the engine compartment that covers the radiator,condensor. Everything else seems fine. Looks like a bill of about $1750.00

They [state Farm] is offering a rental car at no charge when the work is started.

The car is drivable as is.

As always will keep everyone posted.

[Guest mhuffy]

KDirk,

Appreciate the info and have looked into collector policies and I do not like the stipulations associated with them. I want to be able to enjoy my car and take it on getaways - not just look at it in the garage.

Booretta,

Thanks for the information on that, now I know where to go to get pricing. Nationwide typically uses NADA for valuation according to my agent. I cannot imagine that NADA goes back to 1990 or 1988. Will have to check online and see. Until then, I will have to take my chances.

Marc

[Guest mhuffy]

This is for a 1988. Not sure about some of the devaluation and changes.

<TABLE style="BORDER-TOP-STYLE: none; BORDER-RIGHT-STYLE: none; BORDER-LEFT-STYLE: none; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse; BORDER-BOTTOM-STYLE: none" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 border=0><TBODY><TR><TD><TABLE id=ctl00_ctl20_Table1 style="BORDER-TOP-WIDTH: 0px; BORDER-LEFT-WIDTH: 0px; BORDER-BOTTOM-WIDTH: 0px; WIDTH: 102%; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse; BORDER-RIGHT-WIDTH: 0px" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 border=0><TBODY><TR><TD class=tripleBarBG id=ctl00_ctl20_tdPageDesc><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 bgColor=white border=0><TBODY><TR><TD id=ctl00_ctl20_pagedescription bgColor=white>PRICING

</TD><TD> </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

</TD></TR><TR><TD>Original MSRP: $25,000 <TABLE id=ctl00_ctl21_tblSummary style="WIDTH: 100%; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=4 border=0><TBODY><TR class=summaryData2><TD></TD><TD style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold" align=right>Low Retail</TD><TD style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold" align=right>Average Retail Value</TD><TD style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold" align=right>High Retail</TD></TR><TR><TD class=tableHeader2>Base Price</TD><TD align=right>$2,800</TD><TD align=right>$5,050</TD><TD align=right>$8,600</TD></TR><TR class=tableHeader2><TD>Options</TD><TD></TD><TD></TD><TD></TD></TR><TR></TR><TR class=summaryData2><TD class=hangingIndent>6 Cylinder Engine</TD><TD align=right>-10%</TD><TD align=right>-10%</TD><TD align=right>-10%</TD></TR><TR class=summaryData2><TD class=hangingIndent>Factory Air Conditioning</TD><TD align=right>10%</TD><TD align=right>10%</TD><TD align=right>10%</TD></TR><TR class=summaryFooter2><TD style="WHITE-SPACE: nowrap">TOTAL PRICE</TD><TD class=summaryFooter2 align=right>$2,800</TD><TD align=right>$5,050*</TD><TD class=summaryFooter2 align=right>$8,600</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

<TABLE style="BORDER-TOP-STYLE: none; BORDER-RIGHT-STYLE: none; BORDER-LEFT-STYLE: none; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse; BORDER-BOTTOM-STYLE: none" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 border=0><TBODY><TR><TD>(*) Average retail price represents a clean vehicle in good condition with a Clean Title History</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

I will see what I can find for a 1989.

Marc

Edited December 16, 2009 by mhuffy
correct typo (see edit history)

[Guest mhuffy]

Here is the 89 pricing.

Original MSRP: $26,700 Low Retail Average Retail Value High Retail

Base Price $2,875 $5,150 $8,750

Options

6 Cylinder Engine -10% -10% -10%

Factory Air Conditioning 10% 10% 10%

Sunroof 5% 5% 5%

TOTAL PRICE $3,019 $5,408* $9,188

(*) Average retail price represents a clean vehicle in good condition with a Clean Title History

[padgett]

Lessee minus 10% for 6 cyl, plus 10% for a/c a wash. Like there was a choice (and I'd deduct 20% for a non-working a/c). Interesting, no +/- for mileage.

[Guest steveskyhawk]

I think these cars are wort more than NADA. I think that the CPI (Cars of Particular Intrest) guide is more in line with reality

[Guest mhuffy]

Steve. What does the CPI say?

I am using my 90 as a driver. It looks great and has 96K miles, although it has picked up some Gremlins which is another thread I will start later. In short, it is not one that I will take to the local cruise in, but much nicer than your typical 90 Buick. Every collector car insurance I have found that will take a Reatta wants to limit usage and mileage. I may just have to take a chance for now unless there is something that I am missing.

Marc

[Guest steveskyhawk]

CPI is a subscription based periodical. I dont remember exactly when I looked at it last or exactly what it said (much higher values), but you can see a current copy at Barnes and Nobel

[Guest Richard D]

Steve. What does the CPI say?

I am using my 90 as a driver. It looks great and has 96K miles, although it has picked up some Gremlins which is another thread I will start later. In short, it is not one that I will take to the local cruise in, but much nicer than your typical 90 Buick. Every collector car insurance I have found that will take a Reatta wants to limit usage and mileage. I may just have to take a chance for now unless there is something that I am missing.

Marc

I use my 90 black coupe as a driver and take it to the monthly cruise in and gets lots of questions, where did you find it, how much do you have in it, etc. When I take my 71 Buick Skylark convertible with only 17,500 miles on the clock and in showroom condition all I get are a lot of smiles and nice car as the folks make their way to the Camaros and Mustangs and 1950's cars, they are really sweet. There is a 1955 Buick that has a steering wheel hub made out of crystal clear plastic with a 3D tri sheild logo in the center and the words POWER STEERING around the top and bottom. It looks like a piece of jewelry. Can you say class?

[Guest Telco]

When I take my 71 Buick Skylark convertible with only 17,500 miles on the clock and in showroom condition all I get are a lot of smiles and nice car...

That's because 71 Skylarks are garbage cars. Totally worthless. Those folks were just being nice. Luckily I'm in a position to do you a really huge favor and take that junker off your hands. Normally I'd just pay 500, but since you are a fellow Reatta owner I'll give you 1000 dollars.

Heh heh, naw seriously I'm super jealous and would love to have a 71-72 Skylark. My first car was a 72 hardtop with a 350, bucket seats and the really cool shifter. I'm working on selling my house right now (have 4 more rooms to paint, and all of next week off), as soon as it sells I'll be building a new house and shop on some lakeside land I own. Until I do this I have no room for any more cars, otherwise the search would be on now. Once the shop's up I start the search for another Skylark, or a 71-72 Cutlass Supreme.

[Guest Richard D]

That's because 71 Skylarks are garbage cars. Totally worthless. Those folks were just being nice. Luckily I'm in a position to do you a really huge favor and take that junker off your hands. Normally I'd just pay 500, but since you are a fellow Reatta owner I'll give you 1000 dollars.

Dear Telco, Thank You for your very generous offer. However I would not feel right selling you such a worthless car since yours was a 72 with a manly manual and my 71 has the 350/2bbl turbo hydramatic 350 power train that I am sure is very undependable. All those power options will just be trouble some day, who wants AC, PW, PS, PB, lighting group and a clock. Plus with all of 17,500 original miles it is probably completely worn out. I bet it is just the paint shine holding it together.

All kidding aside best of luck on your search for a 70s "A" body. Another collector found this one for me in 02 and I will ask around and keep looking myself. Are you more intrested in a vert or hardtop, Buick or Olds? Drive train preferences?

MERRY CHRISTMAS, HAPPY HANUKKAH AND HAPPY NEW YEAR!

[Guest Telco]

It varies minute to minute as to which I'd prefer. I loved my Skylark (it was a TH350 auto BTW, but had the floor shifter that looked like an inverted "U") but the styling on the Cutlass Supreme can't be beat. My mom had the 72 model with a 455, and no matter what speed you were going punching it resulted in being pushed hard into the seat, and it still returned around 16MPG. We had that one going so fast one day with the windows down that it actually sucked the headliner out the car and out the passenger side window. All of a sudden RIPTWOCK! and we were linerless. Heh heh...

When the time comes I'll be looking at any combo, but will not take a rare model like a 442 or a GS model unless it can't be avoided. I plan to take the car down to the frame and put it back with more modern parts with other changes to suit me. The thought of doing that to a rare collector does not sit well with me at all. If I were to get one of the collector models I'd feel the need to put it back factory.

For a drivetrain, been thinking of doing a dual TBI 400 small block with a 6L90E auto behind it. Working out the computing would be a bit of a challenge since the 6L90E requires a lot of inputs on a CAN-equipped computer, and the TBI would require its own inputs, but I'm pretty certain I could work it out. If not, a 2004r or a 4L80E would do the trick.

[DAVES89]

Tomorrow I meet with the adjuster. Wish me luck. [sorry to steal the thread lol]

[Guest Road mister]

Dave, I know I'm catching this 4 days later, but if she was ticketed at fault you have the right to a rent a car as part of your claim. Your own agent should walk you though this.

[DAVES89]

The car is drivable. When I take it in they will rent me a car.

[Guest mhuffy]

Good luck with the adjuster.

Marc

[DAVES89]

Met up with the State Farm adjuster this AM. He was very fair and the car is not totaled.

[Guest Richard D]

GREAT NEWS!!!!

[padgett]

Just a thought if anyone is in a similar position. No matter what, do NOT give anyone the title unless they are also taking the car. If you want to keep the car lock it up and do not take out.

Few years ago son's GA was "totalled" in a rear-ender and after some negotiation we took a bit less and kept the car. I fixed it (new rear clip for $80 was same color and in better condition than original).

The issue (at least in Florida) is that once the title is stamped "not rebuildable", that is it and is cheaper for the Ins. company.

Don't know about anyone else's experience but a clear, properly filled out (not "open" since Florida requires also a Bill of Sale (back of newer titles) to be filled out by the PO) title is worth gold. Have known several people to get bit that way when the DMV refused to transfer the title since the person selling the car was not the person whose name was on the title.

Things were really easier when a title had to be notarized.

[Guest Richard D]

Just a thought if anyone is in a similar position. No matter what, do NOT give anyone the title unless they are also taking the car. If you want to keep the car lock it up and do not take out.

Few years ago son's GA was "totalled" in a rear-ender and after some negotiation we took a bit less and kept the car. I fixed it (new rear clip for $80 was same color and in better condition than original).

The issue (at least in Florida) is that once the title is stamped "not rebuildable", that is it and is cheaper for the Ins. company.

Don't know about anyone else's experience but a clear, properly filled out (not "open" since Florida requires also a Bill of Sale (back of newer titles) to be filled out by the PO) title is worth gold. Have known several people to get bit that way when the DMV refused to transfer the title since the person selling the car was not the person whose name was on the title.

Things were really easier when a title had to be notarized.

When My Dad owned a paint and body shop here in Miami all cars in the shop that had more than $50.00 damage had to have a red sticker applied to an intact part of the windsheild stating that the accident had been reported to the Dade County Police or FHP. He could get fined during a surprise inspection. As I remember they went away in the late 1970's. I think that was when no-fault insurance was invented, which I still don't understand.

[Guest mhuffy]

Glad to hear it was not totaled. Good luck in the repair process.

Marc

[DAVES89]

This AM drove to Manikmakaniks house to get the parts I needed. Randy has 5 parts cars so I was able to get everything today.

Bought a hood, front valance [the part that is just below the hood, between the cornering lights, sits on the bumpers] both cornering lights, one headlight motor, the shroud that is inside the engine compartment that covers the condensor and radiator. Also any support hardware that supports the afore mentioned items. I drove the Reatta down so that we could swap the hoods, and I could be sure of what I needed.

The car sure looks like a "beater" with a blue hood on a black car and the cornering lamps taped in place and drooping because the front valance is pushed in. But in less then two weeks from today car will look like it did when I bought it.

The shop has me scheduled for Mon. 12/28. I should get it back Wed. 12/30.

[Guest mhuffy]

Glad you are going to come out okay.

Marc

[DAVES89]

Recieved my check today for $1925.70 from State Farm.

I did my homework on the costs for bodywork/parts and was ready for the adjuster.

He gave me more then I expected [including a rental car] and I will make about $750.00 for my trouble.

This windfall of course will go for future Reatta needs.

[Guest Mc_Reatta]

If you don't mind telling, what's the repaint portion going to run? Are you doing the whole car or just the replaced bits?

[DAVES89]

The verbal quote was for $750.00 including materials, but I was told that the hood had to be stripped. I am sure it will be about $850.00. That will be for a repaint of the hood and front of car blending into the fenders. Also the passenger door wasn't quite lined up. That will be repaired as well.

[Guest mhuffy]

Glad everything worked out for you.