A few ???'s regarding '30 Chrysler cooling system.

[Guest jimstulga]

Is it important for the radiator cap to sealed tightly? because I am getting an anti freeze spray on my windshield when the car is very warmed up and I exceed 45mph. It isn't boiling over, just leaving droplets on hood and windshield.

I was questioning that the car might need a timing adjustment, but none of the local mechanics I trust will help me with such an old car. I'm slowly learning what makes my car tick, but don't know how to adjust timing. Is this hard to do on a C J six? Where can I get the info on how to do it?

Lastly, I'm thinking of sending my water pump out, which is also leaking from the shaft, to be updated with a new oversized hard chromed shaft and lip seal so it will be guaranteed leak free, they say and will look perfectly stock. Anyone had luck with that??

Thanks for any help you can offer!! Jim

[keiser31]

Do you have an "instruction book" for your car with the specifications and adjustments given?

My 1931 Dodge does the same thing with the anti-freeze.

[nearchoclatetown]

It's a guess but you may be over filling it. Just fill to the top of the core and see what happens.

[ply33]

Ditto nearchoclatetown's comment: The radiator should be filled to just above the core.

On my 1933 Plymouth there is a cover on the bell housing that when opened reveals a pointer and on the flywheel there are timing marks. The engine is statically timed. The specifications are in the "instruction book" that came with the car. I am guessing that your 30 Chrysler may have a similar setup.

In any case, following keiser31's suggestion, you should get a copy of the instruction book (often called the owner's manual). There is a wealth of information in there on how to maintain your car.

[19tom40]

Try Sierra Anti Freeze, it doesn't foam as much as Prestone.

[Guest jimstulga]

THANKS for the suggestions thus far.... I do think I've been over filling the rad. As for timing, I have the instruction book and there is a chapter on valve timing. It talks about removing a pipe plug from #6 cylinder head above #6 piston then insert a gauge rod into the hole..... (where do I get a gauge rod?) then valve tappet adjustments. This may be more than I can handle, but I'll study and see what I can learn. Jim

[ply33]

The plug on the #6 cylinder just covers a hole over the #6 piston (which moves on the same throw as the #1 piston) so you can put a rod in and use a dial indicator to verify that you are at top dead center. I have only heard of that being used to check valve timing.

I don't know if your engine has a timing chain or if it has gears. Chains can wear to the point where they can jump and give you bad valve timing. But it is rare. So generally valve timing does not change after the engine is assembled.

If you have an issue with timing, I'd first check the ignition timing. That should be a lot simpler. Ignition timing is affected by point gap which changes as the rubbing block on the point contact arm rubs against the lobes and wears. The adjustment is first to set the point gap correctly then unclamp the distributor and rotate it until the points just open at the correct crankshaft location. On my 1933 there is a timing mark for this on the flywheel. On later cars there is a mark on the fan pulley.

Your original observation was the engine was running hot. This can also be affected by the carburetor mixture being too lean.

[Guest jimstulga]

Ply 33,

Thanks for your info. Valve timing is probably ok then. The engine was completely overhauled a couple of yrs ago. Don't know if this is a clue, but once in a great while my car backfires with a bang while moving along at a pretty good clip. Like I say though, it's not a common occurrence. Happened maybe three times since the overhaul. Jim