Trunk

[Don Hudd]

I have a 1989 and the trunk will not open with the key or the release button inside glove box. I can hear the relay clinking so thought it might be the solenoid. I got a good one from Jim Finn(thanks Jim) but still will not open. Any help?

Thanks,

Don

[89REATTAJIM]

I realize this will sound stupid, but here goes: Have you tried lifting the lid to make sure it's locked down?? I know someone this has happened to... Most lids don't pop up much when they are unlocked.

You can go thru the pass thru behind the seats and use the manual release lever, unless trunk is full of stuff...... Jim

[Don Hudd]

Thanks Jim, yes I tried to open it while turning the key. I did open it with the manual release lever but what a pain. besides golf time is fast approaching and need trunk for clubs!!

[jonlabree]

Check the pictures attached. Make sure that the black lever is all there and working correctly and the spring on the backside is working. I have an electric pulldown on mine but the top switch should look the same.

[padgett]

Well first I'd unplug the solenoid and apply 12v directly - see if the solenoid is good. (Note: the sound of the soleniod is a loud "clunk" and quite different from the muted "click" of a relay. Note: the ground side of the solenoid is through the lid metal and trunk hinge. My 88 has never had a problem but did add a ground wire to the 90 because it was not tripping properly. Should check the ground also.

Now the interesting part: my 88 solenoid has no switch, the 90 'vert does. The parts book (grp 12.243) shows the same solenoid (-277)for all years. The 'vert also has a much more complex wiring circuit since it includes the tonneau-trunk lockout and the switch on the lock is part of that interlock. It also partly controls the trunk lamp.

In fact the 88 parts book just shows one "switch" in the rear circuit, the key switch (console switch is also there). The FSM shows the light switch as part of the lamp (a mercury switch).

So not all solenoid/lock assemblys may have the additional switch. On my 88, only the solenoid wire is present, the 90 has an additional connector for the interlock switch.

[Ronnie]

Be sure there is a good ground connection between the body and the trunk lid. I had to attach a separate ground wire between the body and the lid to get mine to work properly.

[jonlabree]

The trunk lid needs no extra ground wire. It is already grounded by a ground wire at the switch. If that wire is good and unbroken, no other is needed.

[Ronnie]

Please read Padgett's post above mine. Maybe you and him can debate it. I don't care to.

[jonlabree]

No point in debating a true statement of fact.

[Reatta45]

Don't know about other years but a 91 grounds through the hinges... not always great as can be seen with the light in the lid. KennyV

[Guest jamhudson]

I had to ground my 1990. I saw no other ground on car or FSM diagrams. But figured there was one or should have been. These cars were suppose to have been better than must I thought.

[jgmck]

My 88 had one that would make noise (clicking/clunking)but wouldn't alwways unlock the lid. I had a spare and tryed it and that solved the problem. They evidently do get weak if that makes any sense. Maybe the windings for the solenoid were failing on mine?

[padgett]

Not debating, just observing different ends of the elephant. The design did not need a ground wire, it was through the hinge.

My 88 has three wires in the trunk harness - orange, orange black stripe, and black. The first two are the hot leads to the solenoid and the light. The black lead does not show up on the schematics (8A-134) but I assume it is a ground.

The 90 'vert has a much more complex harness due to the interlock which I had to replace as it melted. It did not originally have a ground however the light (1A) worked fine but the solenoid (10A) was not reliable. Added a ground wire and the issue went away.

Suspect full disassembly and cleaning of the hinge would have also fixed but the hinge is not designed to be disassembled and the extra wire is invisible.

So yes, the design did not use a ground wire. Sometimes the design does not work at four times the design life.

It is really incredible how reliable these cars are particularly considering how complex they are. Of course the built in diagnostics help a lot even though incomprehensible without a guide (when the TCC engages, the "MED" fan indicator turns on...)

[Don Hudd]

Thanks for all the replies. This is going to sound dumb, but ground what to what?

[padgett]

I ran a black #18 wire from a screw on the wheelhousing to the lamp mounting screw on the trunk lid - from body to lid). Fits nicely inside the corregated tubing.

[Don Hudd]

Ok, I have added a ground wire and it still does not work, I do have power to the trunk light(it lights up) but none to solenoid. I have tested the solenoid to make sure it is good. Any other ideas?

Thanks,

Don

[padgett]

Next thing I would do is to check the relay in the right rear wheelhouse. It may be going click but not making contact. I assume the door locks are working ?

[Don Hudd]

Yes door locks work. I also changed the relay

[Guest palosfv3]

Take a test light or DVM to the power wire going to the lock solenoid. Hit the release button . Do you get power ?

If not connect a jumper from the relay to the solenoid. Try again . If this works .You could have a bad piece of wire. Some times wire will burn up internally and not show evidence on the insulator. Repeated opening and closing of the lid with the wiring rubbing against an edge can also cause it to fail.

[Don Hudd]

Ok, I tried the test light, no power, then ran a jumper wire from solenoid to relay, still nothing, I ran direct from battery to solenoid and it works, so solenoid is good. Any other ideas?

Thanks again,

Don

[Ronnie]

Does the relay click when you push the open button?

[padgett]

Did the contact power lead on the relay socket have power ?

[Don Hudd]

Yes relay clicks when button is pushed and also with key, I don't know how to check the contact lead or which one it is.

[Guest palosfv3]

Check the continuity of the wire from the solenoid to the relay. It sounds like this is the problem.

[Don Hudd]

I ran a jumper wire from the relay to the solenoid bypassing the wire that was there, still no go.

[padgett]

Am getting close to a rant here. Everything you need to know is in the FSM and they can be downloaded for free. Every Reatta should have one.

The trunk wiring schematic is shown on page 8A-134-2 of the 89 FSM, the location on 8A-201-17 fig D, and the connector on 8A-202-34. Note the letters on -34 they relate to the schematic on 134-2. Also the relay wiring should be marked on the side of the relay.

Now I did notice something that might be confusing: the scamatic is marked 1-5, the connector A-E, and the relay (probably a Bosch) is marked 80-87

Easy way to identify is the positioning: the one all by itself is the main power to the contacts (2 on schematic), two on the sides are the coil (1 & 4 on scematic), and the two between the coil are the two relay contacts NO and NC (normally open and normally closed). In this case we only care about the NO to the solenoid which is the one furthest from the main power.

So the wiring is like this (same for all Reatta relays that I have seen):

Sch Conn Use

1 - B - coil 1

2 - A - 12v always from seat-door lock circuit breaker

3 - E - normally closed (not used for trunk release)

4 - D - coil 2

5 - C - normally open (to solenoid)

So what you want to check is for 12v on 2/A and if present jumper 2/A to 5/C. The solenoid should work.

Next connect your DVM on a 20vdc scale to 1/B and 4/D. Should read zero at first and battery voltage when you push the button or turn the key.

If both of these work, the relay is the problem.

[Don Hudd]

Thanks for all the help. Did not mean to get on any nerves here, just kinda new to the Reatta and needed some help.

Thanks again,

Don

[padgett]

Just let us know what happens and try to be more specific please "ran a jumper wire from the relay to the solenoid" does not tell which contact on the relay you used. If the wire ran from 2/A to the solenoid it should clunk. If not then you need to troubleshoot the circuit fron the seat circuit breaker.

[Don Hudd]

Well I tested for 12v on 2/A, had none. then checked from 1B and 4D, no voltage when not turning key, get voltage when turning key. I am lost as what to do. When I ran jumper wire from relay to solenoid the other day, I tried it from both orange with black stripes contacts at the solenoid. Thanks for all the patients with me and all the help.

Don

[padgett]

2/A is supposed to be hot at all times and is fed from the same circuit breaker as the power seats. If the seats work it sounds like a wiring problem. First place I'd check is the wire to the back of the relay socket since is easy to get at.

The schematic is on page 8A-134-2 and shows an Orange wire with a black stripe going to the socket. Try pushing the wire into the socket and see if power appears.

If not that the next check point is C(onnector)301 which is a 6 cavity (pin) connector under the right seat by the rocker. See page 8A-201-20 fig C for the picture.

[Don Hudd]

Thanks padgett