Guest Bronie Posted March 9, 2009 Share Posted March 9, 2009 Hey all,Was just installing my new interior and cant figure out how to get the exterior chrome trim off which contains the felt. The four pieces in question are the front chrome trim on the doors which the felt connects to and the trim on the rear above the wheel wells which also houses the felt. I inspected it closely and cant see if it it held in with screws or clips, but didn't see any screws.any info would be appreciated.Thanks.John 65 Riv Custom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick91914 Posted March 9, 2009 Share Posted March 9, 2009 I think what you're describing are the trim pieces below the vent windows, on top of the door skins, and below the rear 1/4 window. I describing this from memory, but I beleive that if you open the door and look at the front edge of the door skin you'll see a screw securing the front-most trim piece to the top edge. Remove the screw and tap the rear edge of that trim forward so that it slides forward off the the other piece on the door skin. The 2nd piece (on the door skin) and the piece below the rear 1/4 window are secured by screws buried in the felt. These are often rusted and may need to be drilled out. It takes some patience.The felt pieces are secured to the trim with staples. Remove the staples gently trying to avoid damaging the trim or your fingers. Again, this takes patience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Bronie Posted March 10, 2009 Share Posted March 10, 2009 Thanks for the reply,I'm going to check that out on wednesday and hopefully tackle it. Will let you know how it comes, thanks again.John65 Riv custom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CTX-SLPR Posted March 11, 2009 Share Posted March 11, 2009 I used aluminum pop rivits on my '64 to put new fuzzies on it. Not original but it works extermly well if you position the rivits so they don't catch on anything. However its not original, you have to drill holes in the trim, and you can see them if you look hard enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick91914 Posted March 13, 2009 Share Posted March 13, 2009 To secure the felt strips to the trim, I used head duty staples which I pushed through the same holes from which the original staples were removed. It was tough pushing it through using my thumbs, but the result appears and functions as original. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted March 13, 2009 Share Posted March 13, 2009 I've found that if you're going to install new staples, as Patrick describes, the easiest way to get the old staples out with out damaging the molding is to cut the staple using a cut-off wheel on a Dremel tool. Cut it on the flat side of the staple so you can grab the curled end with a pair of pliers and pull it through. The flat part of the staple just falls off. The holes don't get enlarged and you don't need to use any pressure to remove the staple.Ed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick91914 Posted March 13, 2009 Share Posted March 13, 2009 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RivNut</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I've found that if you're going to install new staples, as Patrick describes, the easiest way to get the old staples out with out damaging the molding is to cut the staple using a cut-off wheel on a Dremel tool. Cut it on the flat side of the staple so you can grab the curled end with a pair of pliers and pull it through. The flat part of the staple just falls off. The holes don't get enlarged and you don't need to use any pressure to remove the staple.Ed </div></div>That's exactly what I did. It's a real pain in the butt and it took me a week to complete the task because I have the patience of a 5-year old. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Bronie Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 Hey guys,Thanks for the advice. I managed to get them all off even though I had to drill out some rusted screws. Only problem is I couldnt get the chrome trim off the passenger side door because my window wont go down all the way. Not sure if its a stopper issue or what, but it needs to go down an extra half inch so I can get to the screws. Not sure If I have to take off the door skin to get at the window, really hope I dont. I am most likely gonna post on this topic in the main page.Any advice would be appreciated.Thanks.John 65 Riv Custom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest musclecarfan65 Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 i used extremely small stainless steel screws with a self sinking head. works fine and nothing rusts :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 All window adjustments have to be made by removing the door skin. It's not that difficult, only time consuming but it will be worth it in the long run. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest musclecarfan65 Posted March 24, 2009 Share Posted March 24, 2009 helpfull is also always (!) the chassis and the service manual Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitewatersky Posted April 12, 2012 Share Posted April 12, 2012 (edited) on this issue, just as a headsup, i ordered all the rubbers and fuzzes from clarks corsair:Clark's Corvair Parts, Inc. - Corvair Parts Catalog - Over 12,000 partsanyhoooi have my rear window (1965 Riv) skins and chrome trims off (thanks to mucho help from my work mate Dan)the holes punched in the fuzzies (thru which the staples are meant to pass) don't align to the holes in the door trim and the chrome trims.(trim/chrome has 4 holes, supplied new fusses have only 3 in different positions and are SLIGHTLY differently bent so the fuzzes will need some bending, which won't be easy cos they have a metal strip thru them)just so yas know..... bit of a drag, cos I haft drill new holes in either:a) the fuzzes, or the trim/chromeI think it'll be option a) abovealso, the supplied staples are phrikkin phat and will be a bee-yatch to:a) fit thru the original holes in the skin/chrome (cos the original staples were thinner so passed thru smaller holes) fold and tighten into place so the glass doesn't get scratched by the staples....dunno whether to get thinner staples (more like the factory originals) or take it to a trimmer in the hope he has a ballsy stapler that'll crunch 'em nice and tight so the fuzzes are secure and free of the glassafter re-reading this, did anyone get fuzzes from a different supplier that DON'T have these issues:- # of holes- alignment of holes- slightly mis-aligned shape of fuzzie strips Edited April 12, 2012 by whitewatersky my dopiness (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 63 rivenge Posted April 12, 2012 Share Posted April 12, 2012 Purchased mine from CARS INC.......they came with small stainless screws, and take your time, I had to drill some rusted screws out, but make sure you align them back properly. The rear window install easy, but the front, make a mark on the door skin so they align up, and make sure screws or staples are all the way in, so that power window does not rip your hard work out on your first try up..and yes that door skin has to come off for the front ones, which I will attempt this weekend..........just a liitle patience....but I do like the pop rivet idea which I might try up front Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitewatersky Posted April 12, 2012 Share Posted April 12, 2012 (edited) Ta Bob. Actually, yeah, the screw holding the chrome required some careful work. One of them needed drilling cos it was rusted into place.Dropped the blooming Phillips head attachment from the ratchet screwdriver down into te body below the rear window... Doh. Needs me a magnet to try'n pick it up, methinks....The rivet and small screw ideas are sounding appealing. While i'm out n aboot I'll see if one of our regular trimmers we use in town has the stapler and slightly thinner staples (& hopefully only a small fee for his trouble) so as to match the original method. Might save me some time....Just outta interest (& 4 the benefit of anyone else reading this In future) did those CaRs fuzzies have matching holes and come with the appropriately sized staples ? Or just the screws?If so, did u put the screws only on the ends? Or equidistant along the fuzzies? I'll take a few pics of mine tomoro Edited April 12, 2012 by whitewatersky (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 63 rivenge Posted April 12, 2012 Share Posted April 12, 2012 The window felts from Cars came with small holes for the screws,so align them up, ( # 8 by 1/2 inch Phillips FLAT head ) make sure you drive them all the way in, so your window does not scratch on the way up and do measure close when you do your fronts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitewatersky Posted April 16, 2012 Share Posted April 16, 2012 (edited) The drivers side was easy to remove door fuzzies. I too found the passenger side was tough because of the top of the window glass covering the fuzzy screw near the qtr window and midway along the window.where door skin removal is mentioned above do you guys men outer metal skin?. In our quest to change the door fuzzies I was hoping we could avoid removing the outer door skin when trying to remove the chrome piece On the passenger side. Thankfully we managed to get the (initially inaccessible) screw at the door hinge end of the fuzzy off by removing the shorter chrome piece below the Qtr window.We then unscrewed the 3 screws holding the outer skin in place immediately below the Qtr window.That enabled us to pull the metal skin outward enought to get a better angle on the screws. Didn't need to unbolt any other door skin bolts.I may be paranoid/clueless but I was just worried about removing that outer skin for fear of it not fitting again, cracking paint or simply opening the cat up to more rust potential Edited April 16, 2012 by whitewatersky (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted April 16, 2012 Share Posted April 16, 2012 It's a bolt on skin. Removal of that skin is the only way to access the adjustment nuts for the window rails if that needs to be done. Some are easier to get at than others, and if the nuts are corroded to the T-bolts, you'll have some fun getting them loose.Ed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitewatersky Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 Cool! I might just remove it to clean the doors out. But of dust and debris down there. Thanks for the reassurance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 Once the skin is off, you can loosen the adjustment nuts and lower the window more. That will make access to the fuzzies easy.Ed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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