Brake Fluid Flush?

[ol' yeller]

I think I already know the answer but I thought I'd better ask than assume. My recently purchased '90 Coupe has 148K on it, the last 2K I put on it since September. During the purchase process I asked the previous owner if he ever changed the brake fluid. He looked at me and asked why would he ever do that? He owned the car since the first owner who sold it to him at around 6K miles. The car passed the brake test with flying colors. My inclination is to get it flushed and changed ASAP but there is a part of me that says "If it ain't broke don't fix it." Given how many miles would it be wise to still change the fluid? He couldn't tell me if at any of his brake jobs they changed the fluid. I doubt they did unless so instructed. What do you think? Thanks.

Greg

[Jim]

It is absolutely necessary to change the fluid on the '88-90 Reattas.

Brake fluid naturally attracts moisture and this moisture will corrode the valve body in the Teves ABS.

This is like changing your transmission fluid every once in a while except MUCH more important. You will not notice a problem until you need to make a panic stop and you might have no brakes and a hard pedal. This is a result of corrosion in the valve body.

Change your fluid about every three years.

1. It is HIGHLY recommended that all the fluid in the whole system be

changed with new fluid to eliminate any built up moisture in the system.

2. Any time the brake hydraulic system is to be opened the brake pedal

should be pumped 25 times with the key off to bleed off the 2600

pounds of pressure in the accumulator.

3. Siphon out as much of the old fluid as possible from the reservoir and refill with clean fluid to the top. Another good way is to cut the rubber hose that comes from the reservoir right where it attaches to the ABS pump and let all the fluid in the reservoir run out. Then remove the piece of hose still attached to the pump and reinstall the rubber hose. It is long enough to do this. I like to cut it rather than try and remove it because the hose sticks really hard to the plastic fitting and you might break the fitting trying to take the hose off. Doing it this way you get all the fluid out of the reservoir before putting in new clean fluid.

4. When doing the rear wheels only let out about a half of a cup and then refill the reservoir. This is to make sure you don't take out too much and get air into the system.

5. To bleed the front brakes have the key off and bleed in a conventional

method. Have someone pump the pedal a few times and hold it down while the other person opens the front bleeders.

6. To bleed the rear brakes

A. Turn on the key and allow the system to pressurize

B. Have an assistant slightly depress the pedal and hold it.

C. Open each rear bleeder, one at a time, and hold open until clear

fluid comes out. (The pump and motor will do the bleeding)

When you are done there are high and low marks on the reservoir and after the system pump and motor has run and the lights are out the level should be at the low mark. When you have pumped the brakes with the key off 25 times the level will be at the high mark.

[Guest simplyconnected]

Greg, you live in Washington State, where temps and humidity change all year, every year. DOT-3 brake fluid sucks up water faster than Scotch. DOT-3 has a saturation point, then it starts pooling water, usually at the lowest points; inside your wheel cylinders.

Every brand of DOT-3 is absolutely clear. I guarantee you, when you change your fluid the old stuff will show red to brown tell-tale signs of rust inside your lines from water.

When you change your brake fluid, you don't have to introduce any air (notice I said, "when"). You can bleed until you see clear fluid coming out:

Use a turkey baster and suck as much fluid out of the reservoir as possible. (Don't drip any on your paint.) Replace it with fresh DOT-3, then purge all your lines. Meaning, open your bleeder valves, one at a time, until you see clear fluid coming out. It helps if you have someone depress the brake pedal as you open the bleeder valve (shut the valve before he raises the pedal, repeat the process). Do each wheel.

If you do this about every two years (or 24k miles), that will ensure, your fluid hasn't reached saturation. This is important for these reasons:

* Higher water content lowers the boiling AND raises the freezing point (it boils sooner and freezes sooner),

* DOT-3 rust inhibitor will stop any further damage inside your lines and cylinders,

* Your brakes will work and feel better because viscosity is correct and all the crap is gone (isn't moved around).

Every time you pump your pedal, the fluid stirs, equalizing moisture throughout the system. Water enters anywhere it can, around wheel seals, and through the open cover of your Master Cylinder. I won't even check my fluid on a rainy day. Yes, DOT-3 absorbs water THAT fast; it's glycol based, not a petroleum product.

Tell your first owner, just because it works doesn't make it right. Plain water will work, but not for very long. By the way, keep ALL petroeum based products far from your brake system. Petroleum swells seals and causes all of your cylinders to stick, locking-up the brakes.

Hope this helps. - Dave Dare

[Guest simplyconnected]

Sorry, Jim. I was writing mine while you were writing yours, so I didn't see it. Jim's method is the one to use for your Teeves system. Mine is for more conventional systems.

[Guest simplyconnected]

As a side note, RONNIE has a web site dedicated to Riatta owners. It is by far the finest I have ever seen. Here is his home page:

Reatta Owners Journal

If you put "Brakes" in the search box, you will get to your point of interest:

How to Bleed the Master Cylinder

Every Riatta owner needs to bookmark this site.

[Guest steakneggs]

Definitly change that nasty stuff ASAP. If nothing else, pull the hose off your reservoir to drain it and refill with some new stuff. Protect the Teves, the other components are cheaper and more forgiving. Steak

[Barney Eaton]

Not flushing the brakes is sort of like not quitting smoking. You may not be real excited about doing it, but you will have problems if you don't.

[Blue90]

Greg,

I live in Portland, Oregon; probably similar weather patterns to where you live. I have my mechanic flush the brake fluid <span style="font-weight: bold">every year</span>. I just had it done. It cost me $77 including the brake fluid. I consider it brake insurance.

[ol' yeller]

Well,general consensus is what I expected. On my last Reatta, I flushed the system when I bought it. I sold it a year later so that was it. On my other new cars & truck I also change it every 2 years. After the New Year, I'll drain and flush my new Reatta. I am amazed how nice this car is and how well it runs and drives given the high mileage. It sat in inside storage for 8 years as when I bought it it still had the 2000 license plates. I hope it lasts a long time but even if it doesn't I don't have a lot into it and then I'll have a new project to play with.

[Guest simplyconnected]

There's another benefit of changing brake fluid every couple years. Your bleeder screws won't freeze and break off. To help this, I use teflon tape on the threads. Teflon is not a petroeum product, stays soft forever, and it keeps moisture away from the threads. (It's also cheap and very available everywhere.)

[Roadster90]

Sounds like a simple, but great idea Simplyconnected ...thanks