Engine ran two seconds, then locked up? 1956 322

[Pete Phillips]

I am working on a friend's 1956 Special. The engine in it was no good, so we removed it and he brought over another 1956 322 engine that he had bought at a salvage yard in 1962 out of a wrecked 1956 Buick that was only a few years old at that time. It has sat in his garage ever since, out of the weather. We decided to try to get the replacement engine to run before putting it in the car. The crankshaft was very difficult to turn, but would turn after getting past a seemingly tight spot, then it would turn half a revolution, and then tighten up again. We overheated one starter trying to get it to turn over, but the more it turned, the easier it seemed to get. All valves and lifters seem to be moving, not stuck. We hooked up a gas can to the carburetor yesterday, and after several attempts with another starter, the engine finally caught on all cylinders and ran for about two seconds, then quit. There was lots of smoke, but no sharp noises other than the unmuffled exhaust, and nothing out of the ordinary.

Two minutes later, we tried to start it again, and the engine is locked up so tight that using a pipe for leverage on the crankshaft bolts at the back will not budge it one inch--nearly broke the bolts, and lifted the engine off of the stand. It seems to be hopelessly locked up tight. Can't move it in any direction. I checked all valves, pushrods, springs, and everything there seems to be fine. There is plenty of clean oil in the oil pan. It didn't run long enough for oil starvation or heat to ruin anything. I don't understand it, and don't know what should be the next step. Any suggestions?

Pete Phillips, BCA #7338

Sherman, Texas

1949 Super Estate Wagon

1950 Roadmaster 2-dr. ht.

1963 Wildcat 4-spd. conv. 425

[old-tank]

Pete

Try it again after cooling overnight, using a large screwdriver or tool between the block and ring gear. (a 2 ft screwdriver will give more turning leverage than a 4 ft wrench on the crank bolt)

If that does not work, start disassembly...probably not a bad idea anyhow. Good luck and let us know what you find.

Willie

[Rooster]

Did you have a remote oil gauge hooked up to it ?

Did you take the distributor out and spin the oil pump to bring up oil pressure?

If no ,then possibly -----

[Guest simplyconnected]

Are you serious? You ran a 'dry' late '50's engine, without fully going through and prep'ing it? Bring that engine to a good engine rebuilder. Hire the professional to perform a major overhaul. He will guarantee it when he is done. Your '56 Buick will love it.

[Guest brh]

Have done the long screw driver trick--it works even on V8 engines. If ya want to see if ya can break it loose pull all the plugs and soak those cylinders. I'd be willing to bet there are some rust issues that locked the rings.

[Guest simplyconnected]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Pete Phillips</div><div class="ubbcode-body">...The crankshaft was very difficult to turn... past a seemingly tight spot, then... tighten up again. We overheated one starter trying to get it to turn over... ran for about two seconds, then quit. There was lots of smoke, but... nothing out of the ordinary... the engine is locked up so tight that using a pipe for leverage on the crankshaft bolts at the back will not budge it... nearly broke the bolts, and lifted the engine off of the stand. It seems to be hopelessly locked up tight.</div></div> It isn't ordinary to see lots of smoke and a siezed crankshaft. If you really want to run this engine again, tear it all the way down. It needs a major overhaul. Trying further to start it will only cause more damage.

[JohnD1956]

Pete, Did you take off the fuel pump by any chance, and see if it turns over?

[Pete Phillips]

I finally had time to open up this 322 engine today, and what I found was that the #6 piston had broken into 5 or 6 very large chunks. There was a piece in the oil pick-up screen, some pieces wedged between the crankshaft and the connecting rod, a piece in the oil pan, and there is still a piece wedged I'm afraid, into the cylinder wall. Some of the breaks and cracks had shiny metal, indicating it broke recently; other breaks were dark, dull and much older, which makes me think the piston had damage when the engine was pulled out of the car in the early 1960s at the salvage yard then.

So, it wasn't the fuel pump, wasn't the lack of oil, but it may have been a rusted piston ring, and something apparently happened many year ago.

Pete Phillips, BCA #7338

[Guest brh]

Sorry to hear about how this wound up, this type of thing is never good. I think the only positive ya can take out of the situation is ya can quit beating yourself up on possibly overlooking something when trying to start it up. This engine was damaged long ago.