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'20s Transmission Lubricant Suggestions?


Guest Paterson Chris

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Guest Paterson Chris

Hello All --

I need your suggestions on what to use as a transmission lubricant in my car, an orphan from 1922 -- a Paterson.

The other weekend I drained out this black, very molasses like stuff from the transmission simply because its never been done since I've had it. I mean this stuff just hung there like the snot on a five year old's nose before leisurely lowering itself into my drain pan. I replaced it with Sta-Lube's "Multi-Purpose Hypoid SAE85W90 Gear Oil (API GL-4)". I then drove it around the black a few times and...now the gears sound noticeably noisy.

Should I be using something else?

Thanks

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On my 28 Pierce I have been advised to use 600W, this is an old designation equivalent to SAE 250 viscosity. It's available from Restoration Supply or from Ford model T vendors. The 85W90 is way too thin for those old gears. Be sure you use a fluid that is safe for bronze or brass, meaning it should not contain any sulphur additives.

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Guest Paterson Chris

Don and Mark --

A big thanks for your input. SAE 250 equivalent. I'll remember that.

One more if I may:

And what lubricant do you use inside your rear axles?

Thanks again --

Chris

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On my 1916 Elgin the book called for a good grade of Steam Cylinder Oil and a handful of good flake graphite.

I tried 250 wt but it just leaked out as the transmission and rear end had no seals of any kind. An old guy at Hershey told me to use straight STP Oil Treatment.. I did and it worked fine without any leaks.

The steering box called for Soft Cup Grease or Vaseline

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I know from my research most of the cars of the 20's used 600 w oil in the transmission and some used it in the rear end also. You can get it from restoration supply as well as other dealers such as Snyders Model A & T parts etc. It is real thick like honey but does the job.

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Guest 1926pack

Chris-

Use the Steamer oil, sometimes called 600 weight oil. The people who restore Model Ts and such have it around. I think that oil is also used in the rear end.

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Guest 1926pack

One more thing. You may want to use rubber gloves or something if you're going to do it yourself. That stuff stinks and its so thick it sticks like glue.

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I have used both the modern 90..120w and this new 600w. Most of my owner's/service manuals call for 600w. I have noticed the heavy stuff is quieter and the straight cut gears seem to shift better (pre syncromesh). Chris, who made the transmission in the Paterson; do you have an owners manual or service book?

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Guest Paterson Chris

Hello All --

Again, thanks for the replies.

I checked with our local lubricant supplier and Shell Dentax SAE 250 and Texaco Thuban SAE 250 and others get virtually no calls so they aren't even supplied. Amsoil makes a synthetic SAE 250 they just introduced in March that they're pushing everywhere on the 'net but at $13.50 a quart seems like overkill. Thanks to you guys I'm going with the 600-W stuff from Snyder's. $6.50 a quart. I ordered enough for my rear axle too.

Harry J --

The only literature I have for it is a parts catalog for the motor; a Continental 6. For reference I use a period copy of Dyke's Auto Encyclopedia (mostly for specs, NOT practice), Collector Car Restoration by M.Joseph, some lesser books and what I find on the 'net.

The raised lettering on the side of my transmission reads; Durston Gear Corp'n Syracuse New York -- if that helps.

Chris

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Some mix STP & grahite into the SAE 250 lube to slow leakage. They believe the STP sticks to the gears better too.

I use the same straight SAE 250 mineral oil lubes with no sulphur additives in the tranny, rear end, & steering box.

Today's lubes are much better than what was available in the early days....& these cars lasted a very long time.

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Guest Paterson Chris

BTW --

I tried to add a picture of the car at the beginning but it didn't take here (probably too large a file). So I took another, much smaller file size one that I'll post in the "What Is It?" section under a title like, " '22 Paterson?"

Chris

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Guest Paterson Chris

Mark --

Again, I can't even find SAE 250 readily available locally. Otherwise I would consider making my own concoction. I already ordered the 600-W stuff so I'll note in my maintenance log your formula for future reference.

Chris

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