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About Thom

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  • Birthday 09/21/1952

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  1. I asked this question several years ago and only got one response from a guy who is Covercraft dealer and sells Chisholm Coach Custom Car Covers. His name is Barney Eaton, out of Georgetown, TX. Cover prices range from $132 to over $300. He suggested a Block-it 380 at $176. Prices were for a 1938 sedan in Aug/2008. I have not bought one yet, so I don't know anything about it. He claimed they will fit the car perfect and are of the highest quality. I am currently (still) using sheets, but when I finally finish my complete restoration I will probably buy a fitted cover. His email is Hope this helps.
  2. You might email Rob at Ficken Wiper Service. He overhauled my 38 wiper motors and they are like new. He tests all motors before returning. He surely will know the vacuum range to work your motors. His email address is
  3. You might try Tioga Stainless, LLC Phone 802-655-9671 or email There hardware is stainless, but looks like nickel plated and worked great for me.
  4. I too used an Acousti Shield full kit from Quiet Ride Solutions for my 38 Dodge Sedan. It was a little pricey, but I did not have to cut anything and the shield parts went on very easy. They give you everything in the kit and I was very impressed with the quiet ride (lack of road noice and car sounding like a tin bucket). Since the car is restored original (no air conditioning), heat was also a concern for driving in the summer. It really cuts down on heat. Whether you use a manufactured kit or do it yourself, insultating a car is worth the cost and trouble. Quiet Ride Solutions kit just makes it easy and fool proof. I had some problems knowing where some parts in the kit went and the company was very helpful when I called. I have read in other forums that there are some insulation materials out there that become a messy goo and don't hold up. The reviews on Quiet Ride sold me.
  5. I bought larger pins that were Stainless Steel for my 38 four door sedan, from Plydo in West Virginia. They were extra long and needed to be cut to fit, but they worked well. Not sure about a web site, but their phone in 2005 was 304-475-3245. Thom
  6. Seventeen and owned a 36 Dodge. Very impressive! Your my kind of guy.
  7. I had fixed mine for my 38 Dodge which is the same tank, spent over $150 dipping it, having the baffle re-welded back in place and tested for leaks, and coating it with a gas tank coating to prevent rust and leak. Still leaked. NOS tanks go for around $500-$700, too rich for my budget. So I just bought a new 16 gallon polyethylene gas tank for 1937-39 Dodge and Plymouth passenger cars for $210. Have not installed it yet, but very pleased with the look (looks original) and the safety features are up to current standards. You might want to consider. There are some on ebay or you can go to who makes these tanks
  8. Try Ed Speigel in Murrysville, PA. Phone 412-559-6880. He has only NOS original parts and may have what you need or be able to find it for you. He has helped me several times on hard to find parts on a 38 Dodge. His email was, but that was several years ago.
  9. Doug, Jason, Joe and the rest of you, a thousand thanks for your insight, expertise, and help. It’s obvious that I am out of my league when it comes to metal and metallurgy. It’s a very interesting subject and I’m impressed with your knowledge. Looks like the SS machinist from PA gets the job.
  10. I talked to the local shop that nearchoclatetown talked about, and my learning curve expanded. This shop starts with solid SS blanks, not tubes, and cuts the sleeve out from there. He believes SS tubing or pipe is the problem of failure when used for sleeving. From what I have gathered, whether brass or SS is used, each are adequate material for sleeving brake cylinders, providing they are done correctly. One shop or person may prefer one over the other, but both can work well. I’m not sure if I agree with the cross-hatch pattern of the Hal-Ray technique for brake cylinders. I agree with Joe that you wouldn't want any fluid to pass-by your rubber and the cross-hatch will probably allow this to happen. So then it appears choosing where to sleeve my cylinders comes down to experience of the job, standing behind the work (guarantee), and then maybe price if considerably different. I agree that you often pay for what you get and price is not necessarily the way to choose. I can get the job done for $445 at nearchoclatetown’s shop in Manchester, PA and the man has been doing it for over 20 years without failure of this work. His work is complete, with all internal parts new and ready to install on the car, and has a lifetime guarantee. I like that over Sierra Specialties Automotive, because I don’t have to buy or install the internal parts myself. I also received an impressive dissertation on why not to use silicone from a man that had more reasons then you could count against the stuff. Unless someone has a good reason that I am all wet, I will remove my cylinders this weekend and be sending them to PA the first of next week. I will let you know how I come out. I really appreciate all your help on the matter. THANKS, everyone has helped me a lot! Thom
  11. Thanks idrjoe, for the tip. The argument for the brass inserts seems valid. At this point, the deeper I look the more confused I become. If White Post offers a lifetime warrenty using brass, it must last and not give problems. When I talked to them, they told me if a changed brake fluid every 3 to 5 years I would never have problems again. I will dig deeper and let all know what I come up with. Always appreciate your comments.
  12. I talked to the Hagen people in Oregon this afternoon. Somewhat short on the phone and directed me to their web site when I asked about prices They are about half price of White Post, $365 for sleeving stainless steal on all my cylinders, after they receive my core cylinders. Interesting thing is they claim stainless is stronger, will hold up better, and easier on rubber pistons then brass sleeves, which is what White Post uses. Their turn around time is 24 hours from receiving order, which will help me get my car on the road for spring touring. Anyone have an opinion on brass vs stainless.
  13. Just talked to White Post Restorations after watching their on-line video. The total restoration for all my wheel cylinders and master cylinder is just under $700. The ready to install on the car, 2 day turn-a-round, and lifetime guarentee is very impressive and for me will probably justify the cost. They claim that the use of silicone is my problem because it usually destores the rubber in the brake system. Something I was trying to avoid when I researched restoring the brakes correctly. White Post did say that some people don't have any problems with silicone, but most do. Live and learn, but I thought it was something I would pass on for those of you considering restoring your brakes or changing to silicone. As always, thanks to everyone for your help. This forum is a great way to help each other and pass on good advice. I always appreciate the time you all take to do so. Thom
  14. Thanks for the feedback. I have been out of town so I could not reply. I have heard of Whitepost restorations but could not remember the name. I will consider using them and this Hagen’s Hiway Auto Parts. I am using silicone brake fluid and know the need to be squeaky clean. Several years ago, when I redid the brakes, I installed all new lines, hoses, and installed new rubbers on the wheel cylinders and master cylinder. The brakes worked fine when I had the body off and drove around with just a seat on the frame. After the car was put back together, my brakes still worked fine, but if they sat for longer than a month, I would have to pump them several times before restoring a full pedal. Last Saturday, when taking it out for the first time this year, I had no pedal and after bleeding each wheel cylinder, still no pedal. I need PERFECT brakes on this car and will go to any extent to achieve that. Even if it take sleeving the master and wheel cylinders.
  15. I am having master cylinder problems on my 38 Dodge sedan. Several years ago I honed the cylinder and installed a rebuilt kit. It seemed OK but I have never been real comfortable with its performance. Several guys from my car club suggested buying a new cylinder or have mine rebuilt. MY QUESTION: Has anyone had one rebuilt and what were your experiences? Where do I find companies to rebuild master cylinders? Any help is appreciated. Thom