What's Up With Delco Electronics?

[ol' yeller]

I sold my Reatta but I keep being lured back to this site like a moth to a flame. Besides I know Barney will read my message here as he has the same car as me. This is about my '98 Regal GS. I love everything about this car except the electronics. It now has almost 62,000 miles and so far I have had to replace the heater control module (winked out display), the AM/FM/cass/CD stereo(loses power). The heated seats work sporadically, the one touch down driver's window works about 1 time in 100 and yesterday the right rear power window quit from both switches. This car has been mine since new and has never been hit or damaged. I pamper it with frequent washes and maintenence and seldom test the limits of the supercharger. Again, while I love the car this level of quality from Buick makes me not to want to buy another when the time comes. Any thoughts or similar experiences or am I just "Lucky?".

[Guest EDBS0]

1996 black-cherry Riviera, Supercharged, 3.4 pulley, Gatorback Poly V-Belts 9 inch K&N, home made cold air intake, 3 inch Cat, Bosch Platinum +4, MSD 8.5 plug wires, Jacobs Ultra Coil, B&M 24,000 GVW <BR>transmission cooler, Energy Suspension polyurethane end links and Sway Bar Bushings, Cross drilled rotors front and back, KVR carbon metal fiber pads, Debadged and depinstriped. <P>Driven some what conservatively but has seen more than a bit of WOT.<P>130,000 miles and still only gas and oil changes (uses none between changes) and water pump at 80K and Oxygen sensor at 125K.<P>You could be "lucky" he said touching wood. <P>Perhaps young son is not as conservative as he suggests? <p>[ 08-06-2002: Message edited by: Easily Distracted ]

[padgett]

The electronic problems you mention could be traced to a poor battery ground - have seen GM alternators spike over 200 vdc if load is suddenly removed - why you always need to keep the battery terminals tight.<P>Power window motors seem to be a perenniel problem for GM cars, have had to replace both front motors on the Bonnelville.<P>Switches again could be contact/grounding problems. Is the car garaged ?

[ol' yeller]

Interesting suggestion Padgett. The car has been garaged it's entire life but it does set out during the day at my wife's work. This car is very babied as the wife drives it more than I and I don't think she even knows it has a supercharger. It does get exercised a couple of times a year when we go on vacation somewhere.

[Richard S]

If you doubt Padgett's comment, check ebay under either Allante or Reatta and count the number of ads for power window motors. Luckily, they are fairly generic, the same unit found in many GM products. My experience is that power windows in general are very mechanical systems prone to strain or failure over time. As gunk and dirt accumulate on the channels or lubricant is displaced, more and more strain is placed on the motor. I have replaced one in my son's Saab where there is also a thriving market for them.

[ol' yeller]

I learned long ago not to doubt Padgett. The window motor is curious though as the one that quit is the one that is probably used the least (right rear). I will check it for power before I replace it. The poor battery ground is not something I considered or even would have thought about. The purpose of the post was to see if this is an "Ol' Yeller" problem or a GM Delco problem. For so many electronic things to fail so soon points to a quality control problem in my book but if it only happens to me and my car, then it is just my bad luck. Thanks for the input, I'd appreciate hearing of others with similar problems.

[padgett]

Actually GM power windows usually fail initially by going down ok but stopping about half way up. Wait a minute and it will go up the resp of the way. The main problem is an internal circuit breaker that ages and a sealed body.<P>Suspect the replacements do not have the circuit breaker.<P>If it suddenly fails to operate, I'd check for an electrical (wiring) problem first. Since everything goes through the panel switch under the window, I'd look there first and have a 12v jumper handy.<P>Might mention that sometimes windows jam. If this happens you can usually put your hand on the window and move the switch up and down. If jammed you should feel a tiny movement and the motor tries and fails. If so, fix the mechanical jam.<P>Finally, about all GM windows of the period use a plastic tape drive. I have also seen the tape strip/jam which has the same effect.

[Guest]

Had problem with drivers window on '91 Roadmaster Wagon that would go down but not back up for several minutes. Problem was the motor did not stop when the window was all the way down and it would overheat and trip out. After cooling off it would work again. Motor was replaced and has worked fine since.

[Guest]

If you are having electronics (module)failures, as opposed to electrical (motor) failures, have an electronics specialty shop check for an AC component riding on the DC coming out of the alternator. Bad output diodes can cause this problem.

[Bosco49]

Here's a trick I used on my 1982 Z-28 Camero. Hold the window button in the up or down position and slam the door. Sometimes the contact points need to be shaken up to get them going.