63-65 Brakes

[65Riviera]

Hey guys,

I'm going to be redoing the stock brakes on my 64 pretty soon. Does anybody have any tips on how to increase breaking performance from these drums?

I know they are self energizing, but is there any way to make them self adjusting as well?

I will be converting to a dual master cylinder.

Thanks!

[Jim Cannon]

They are already self-adjusting on all 4 wheels. Just apply the brakes firmly a few times while reversing. If self adjusters are turning freely, they will expand and adjust shoes out.

Don't get too hard of a lining on the shoes. Get softer, grippier material. You won't drive the car enough to worry about how many miles the linings last, so don't worry about harder long-lasting linings.

See if you can find a shop to arc the linings to the drum interior diameter for maximum contact area with drum on day one.

Make sure booster is working properly. No boost, no brakes.

On dual MC, connect front wheels to front port and rear line to rear port on MC body. Do not reverse. No proportioning valve required for drum-drum system.

Replace all rubber brake hoses. They swell internally with age even though they look good on outside.

[RivNut]

I replaced the brakes on my '64 earlier this year and did everything that Jim suggested, but I didn't change over to the dual MC (yet.) One other thing that I did that I felt was well worth the money was to replace all the hardware; springs, retainers, etc. with new stuff - they come as a kit and cost very little. Everything now works great. You can never tell how hot some of those springs may have gotten when they were being pulled and what kind of tension they may have lost. I also rebuilt two and replaced two wheel cylinders.

Ed

[65Riviera]

Thanks for the replies guys. I'll order the parts on monday!

[Jim Cannon]

I agree 100% with Ed about the new hardware kit. I should have mentioned that but kind of assumed that was a given. Heat makes the old springs weak.

Clean the automatic adjusters and give them a very light lube.

Another little detail that I picked up from reading the shop manual is that they expect you to lubricate the emergency brake cable where it passes through the housing on the rear brakes, and also where the cable slides against the frame. I did that and my e-brake snaps back rather nicely when I release it. The new brake springs help with that, too.

[TexRiv_63]

All good advice. If you are going this far, I'd seriously consider replacing all the hard lines if they are original, especially if the car has seen any salt. I used Classic Tube's stainless set, good quality and fit and not that expensive.