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Timber work for 1930 66


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193066....I don't have a pattern; however, how much of your wooden framing have you got. Could you post a picture? You might be able to tell enough from the rotted wood to get a pattern for replacements. I had to replace a good bit of the wood in my '28 royal sedan using what was left and extrapolating from these parts what they origanally looked like.

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I picked the car up in 4 trailor loads, the timber had already been removed but had dry rot and crumbled when shifted. I can work out the back section and the doors, but would like to get a pattern or see some photo's of the front timber where the scuttle/cowl bolt on.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Can someone tell me how you restore a wood framed body? I have worked in garages and body shops for years but never did one of those.

It seems to me you would have to remove the metal body panels, build a new wood frame and reattach the panels? But how do you make the whole jigsaw fit back together perfectly? Is it a matter of cutting, adjusting and redoing everything over and over until it all fits? Or are there tricks I don't know about?

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You are pretty much dead in the water if you start without a pattern. My restoration started with sketching / tracing / photos etc. of existing wood work before any dismantling was done, even rotted wood can be held together temporarily with glue or tape so as to try and get some sort of pattern.

Having done that you pretty much remove (carefully) the metal skin from the existing wood work and do your cleaning / rust repairs / panel beating etc.

Sort out your timber requirements (quality hard woods are a must, proper graining etc.)- seek advice if you are unsure, remember this is the internal strength to you body work.

Now its a matter of shaping / cutting / sanding the skeleton from this timber to form your shapes to support the metal panels. I worked with one panel at a time ie rear tub, front cowl then to doors and so on, of course you will also have to cut and shape the under frame which goes between the body and the chassis; this will support the steel brackets which hold your upper body framework to the chassis. Generally you will then have to fix your metal panels to this skeleton with nails / screws, glues etc.

The real fun part begins when you get to fitting the doors,hoods and access panels; be prepared for lots of cursing and swearing as you try to get the door gaps right, hinges hung correctly and so on. Dont be too proud to use scraps of timber for hidden packers / spacers etc.to achieve some form of alignment because if you had the luxury of dismantling the body in the first place you will find thats how they were when they left the factory !!

All sound too hard? just persevere its worth the effort and dont plan on getting it right first time around.

Good luck

CJH

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