Repairing Radiator

[1929Chrysler]

I found a replacement radiator for my car on E-bay but it has a few leaks in it and two radiator shops both told me the leaks are too far in the middle of the core and it cannot be repaired. Seeing that a re-cored honey comb replacement is in the range of $2500 and up I'm bound to find a stop to the leak. I can literally see the holes with a flash light and they are too big for stop leak that one would pour in the radiator.

Being a plumber by trade I know the art of soldering as I have done this for years and I have to agree with the two shops that more damage would be done if a repair with a torch was attempted.. My idea was to obviously clean the area well with the apropriate acid, flux and get a lead melting pot. Melt the solder in the pot, heat up the radiator slightly below the temp of melting solder (because I don't want to disrupt the other joints)and pour the melted solder over the problem area. Any suggestions??

Thanks

Dan

[Bhigdog]

If the core is below the melting point of the solder it will not "wet" the core and bond. You will have what's known as a "cold solder" bond. Weak and ineffective. Seems to me I had my 55 Olds honeycomb recored for about $750. If you have nothing to lose and can get to the holes enough for good cleaning I'd try some epoxy type sealer.....Bob

[1929Chrysler]

Yes, I am aware and concerned about the "cold solder" bond. I thought about the the epoxy as well but I'm concerned about the constant expanding and contracting of heat and cooling down. What would work well here? I thought about POR 15. They also make a product called Fire Seal 2000 made for repairing cracks in manifolds and other cast iron or steel but not sure how it would work on copper.

Your radiator is probably a standard size square or rectangular shape and you probably got it re-cored before the cost of copper sky rocketted. My radiator is non- standard size and an odd shape. Believe me I've gotten a few estimates.

Thank You

Dan

[Bhigdog]

I kind of figured the core was a bit different than a plain flat core. Assuming the core is for your 29 it wuld not be pressurized. I think you have a pretty good shot at a plain old silicone rubber type aquarium sealant working. It's flexable, made to seal water type applications, and silicone rubber is naturally hi temp tolerant. It's available at most pet shops........Bob

[HarryJ]

1929Chrysler....I have never priced recoring a honeycomb type radiator; $2,500 sounds high. Dyke's Automobile and Gasoline Engine Encyclopedia has instructions in how to repair cellular and honeycomb radiators. I have seen repairs done on early units that consist of plugging up individual cells or tubes. I think repairs to this type of radiator must have been common in their day; thus there must be someone out there that can deal with your repair.

[1929Chrysler]

Harry, There is a repair manual that I down loaded off the internet of some 200 pages that goes into great detail in how radiators were repaired in the 20's. It has much more information that Dykes. When I was a teenager out of high school I worked in a radiator shop and repaired and re-cored my fair share of radiators which is where I learned how to solder. Amazingly this book explains how to repair radiators just about the same way they do today. One of the techniques they use for repairs is the one I described above.

The repairs you refer to are most probably done on the face or top surface of the radiator where it is easily accesible. Believe me, if some one were to attempt to take a torch and apply heat smack dab in the middle of the core where it is needed you are only asking for trouble especially with the copper being as old and fatigued as it is.

As far as cost is concerned, I challenge any one who can come up with a cheaper price than what I have found. No one has looked into this more than me. (At least I feel that way!!)I called about five different company's. The most expensive was the American Honeycomb Radiator Co. The best price I found was $1980.00 (This is for the Auburn style honeycomb)and that was JUST for the core itself with NO rebuilding included!! Just for giggles spend a day shopping around. You'll be amazed!!

Take it from me... If you have potential rust floating around in your engine block, put a filter on the upper radiator hose. This is how my original radiator became clogged. VERY EXPENSIVE LESSON!!!

Dan

[Steve Braverman]

I had the radiator re-cored on my grandfather's 1933 Chrysler Imperial, and it cost about $2500 15 years ago. Then again the core <span style="font-weight: bold">was </span>over 4" thick.

[A. Woolf]

Have you checked with Univeral Carnegie Manufacturing? Once alternative to a cellular core is a modern U cell core with a false front. It should be cheaper. Universal makes and installs these cores. Talk to Gerry.

http://www.universalcarnegiemanufacturing.com/

Alan

[HarryJ]

Dan...Thanks for the expensive lesson. What do you reccomend for an upper hose filter media as I have two cars with cellular or honeycomb radiator cores? Sounds like you have explored repairs to these types of radiators very extensively. Since I am presently in the process of restoring a 1928 Chrysler which has a cellular radiator the responses you get here are of great interest to me. What do they recommend in this early radiator repair manual you have?

[1929Chrysler]

Harry, I found a filter called the Gano filter. I ordered the clear one so I could see the coolant as it flowed through the filter. They also have aluminum and brass. It costs $35.00 autocoolantfilter.com. I wish I knew about these before all this happened!!

As far as maintenance on your radiator I would avoid harsh chemicals and get it flushed out, but be VERY careful if your using compressed air with the water to blast it out. The shock of the water and air can blow apart weak spots in the radiator. Prestone makes a good mild cooling system cleaner. But I wouldn't put it in the system until you have the filter in place. Anything the cleaner would break apart in the engine block would end up in the radiator. After the radiator and block is flushed to your satisfaction, I would put some kind of rust inhibitor in the system.

Can you e-mail me with your phone number for those plates we talked about. I couldn't find it. dspalber@yahoo.com

Thanks

Dan

[29 Chandler]

Check out this coolant filter from Australia.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Tefba-1-1...sspagenameZWD1V

Advantages over the Gano are that it has a removable cap that allows you to check the filter and add fluid. They come in different sizes for your house size. I have few and love them. Sure does make it easier to bleed the air out of the system on my daily driver too. In the end worth the extra money as I can check the filter whenever the system is cool!