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Non-Reatta Help


Richard S

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Attached is a picture of a heat riser tube from my Allante. The tube was actually crimped top and bottom to fittings that go between the manifold and the intake plenum. The tube at the manifold fitting has completely eroded off the fitting. It is pretty close to the same at the plenum end. Took to a welder who said the tube, which is about 3/4" ID and steel, is too thin and too oxidized to be welded. I looked at copper, but can't be welded and is to soft anyway. Looked at stainless steel water heater tubing, but it does not seem to come 3/4" and is pretty thin-walled. I have tried contacting numerous local tubing companies looking for steel or stainless, but no one seems to have that configuration. Have a couple of inquiries out on the internet as well. Folks on this forum have a wealth of practical experience and thought I might get lucky. Any ideas are appreciated.

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Guest mongeonman

Try BGweld.it is a paste that becomes very hard,i get it at canadian tire in canada,maybe someone can tell you how to get it in the US.

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Does the tube need to be completely sealed?

My first thought is flex tubing as used on water heaters and or gas lines for your range.

Copper could be brazed to the steel.....

Coper could also be purchased large enough to go over the solid part then clamped.

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: John w/2 Reattas</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Never would have considered a clutch alignment tool. grin.gif </div></div>

I don't know what happened to my original link. Here is what is should have shown:

85-88 V6 FLEXIBLE BRAIDED STEEL EGR TUBE

A very common problem among V6 Fieros is a cracked EGR tube. This crack will cause a large vacuum leak and your Fiero will idle extremely high. The Fiero Store now carries a completely redesigned EGR tube made from braided steel so that it will not be prone to breaking again. If your tube is still original, think about replacing it before problems occur. Gaskets included.

Part # 67019 Price: $99.95

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Below is how a Fiero owner handled a similar problem. You may require different size fittings.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> I took a cracked EGR tube and cut the tube from the flanges. Next I ground the flanges smooth on a bench grinder and drilled (enlarged ) the holes and tapped the holes to a 3/8 NPT thread. I used Russell Endura #8 AN to 3/8 NPT male hose connectors to the prepared EGR flanges. Summit sells these adapters for $4.00 each.

I made gaskets from both flange ends ends from Mr. Gasket sheet asbestos high temp gasket material. You could also use stock Pontiac gaskets. I next bolted the new improved flanges back to the EGR valve and to the plenum,. Next I measured an old EGR tube and added 1/2" for extra play.

I went to a local hose shop and asked that they make up a stainless braided telfon lined hose with #8 AN female ends. It must be teflon to take the heat.

The total measurement that I provided was from end to end with the fittings attached. The custom SS teflon hose cost me $25.

You install the modified EGR flanges first then all you do is hand thread the female hose ends of the custom teflon hose to the #8 male fittings on the flanges and tighten ( not too tight) with a stubby open end wrench. You now an EGR tube that should last a lifetime and cost about $40.

The real advantages to this EGR tube is that it is long lasting, can be disconnected form the EGR tube or the plenum in less than a minute and costs 1/3 the price.

</div></div>

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I like it, Ronnie. Sure, just have a teflon lines braided hose made up in a diameter to fit over the lower and upper fittings, and clamp. This is just a heat riser so it is under no pressure. I found the breaks only because of the noise and the it sits at the back of the engine just below the fresh air intake area and exhaust gases were infiltrating the cabin.

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Guest EDBS0

Have to agree that electric arc welding would probably burn through BUT Oxy-Acetylene welding should be easy.

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Guest jcc3inc

Sir,

Here is a possibility for replacement: use some of the flexibile stainless gas line as shown in the attached picture. It is NEW if you purchase from a hardware store and should be weld-able. The ID of This One is about 1/2 inch; maybe larger is available. (You will note that it is quite flexible!!)

Regards,

Jack C.

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Guest steakneggs

You failed to mention if a new one was available from GM. If not, I would braze it. Brazing works on thin and rusted metal. It doesn't have to be heated as high. Also the heat dissolves the rust so that the brass will stick. Take it from someone who regularly patches rusted exhaust systems. Steak

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New is not available, but the local dealer says he found one, old stock in N.Y. They want $70 + shipping. Jack, I wandered around Home Depot yesterday looking at plumbing hoses and conduit. The ID on the stock riser is 3/4", and the largest stainless flexible line they carry is 5/8. They did have a braided stainless line for hot water heaters in 3/4, but I could not tell if the inside was teflon and could withstand the heat from the manifold. No one working there seemed to know for sure, but they advised against it. Steak, the piece I have is pretty brittle and I anticipate that rewelding or brazing would be a neverending process. I have about 10 emails out to tubing fabricators for a flexible stainless teflon hose. I should start hearing back on Monday to get an idea of what it will cost to fabricate something. I don't want to have to remove this thing ever again. The bolts from the riser to plenum are in a spot where the working space is nil. It turned out to be easier to remove the plenum. Gave me a chance to blast away 20 years of buildup in the intake tubes. Caddy bolted the riser to the aluminum plenum with steel, so one bolt took the aluminum plenum threads with it. Will not be too hard to tap the plenum.

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