imported_fordmerc Posted September 28, 2007 Share Posted September 28, 2007 I'm learning but frustrated. After smoothing dents and sanding with 1000 grit I still have too many sand marks to polish easily to a mirror finish. Should I sand at higher grit nos., get coarser buffing compound, or just keep on buffing (which is taking far too long for an unsatisfactory result)? Advice appreciated; specifics will help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted September 28, 2007 Share Posted September 28, 2007 1000 grit is plenty fine enough, assuming you've gotten ALL the file marks out. For the initial polishing to get rid of the sanding marks you should use a SISAL wheel and black compound. Finish up with white compound and a hard cloth wheel or go nuts and finish with a soft wheel and rouge. Safety glasses, resperator, leather gloves and a face shield are MANDATORY.....Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
West Peterson Posted September 28, 2007 Share Posted September 28, 2007 I know you need to be careful about rubbing, or sanding, right through. If you used a file to "knock" down dents and for smoothing, you may need to start with a more aggressive grit. 1000 is pretty fine. If, however, you've already worked out the filing and sanding marks, you may need to move up to 1,500, then 2,000 grit, then moving on to using a buffing compound that has some fine polishing grit, followed by a non-grit polish.Good luck.I'm sure others will pipe in to give advice as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted September 28, 2007 Share Posted September 28, 2007 Actually 6oo grit is all the finer grit paper you need use. BUT you do need a sisal wheel and black compound. That is very aggressive and will take out the 600 grit sanding marks in short order. After that the white will take you to an OEM finish or better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest elmo39 Posted September 29, 2007 Share Posted September 29, 2007 I have just taken some dents out of the stainless trim on my 39 desoto , after pricking the dents and filing with a ordinary file i used my air orbital sander set on spin , i started off with 220 git wet and dry and gradualy worked up to 1200 grit i think it has come up as good as it was when it came out of the factory and i haven't use any compounds there is no file or sanding marks showing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A by the sea Posted October 7, 2007 Share Posted October 7, 2007 I am a little further along on the learning steps.One thing I needed to learn was to sand out the previous sand scratch.You have too look at the scratches you have and guess what grit paper will let you take them out. Once you have gotten to the base of the scratches you go to the next grit paper until you get up in to 600 to 1000 range.One trick is to sand in one direction for one grit. Then sand in another direction for the next grit. You can tell when you are through the previous grit when you only see scratch in the current direction.You can speed up scratch removal with a DA that has the pad locked to spin like a grinder. This will cut quicker and then you can change grit. An expander wheel will also speed up the stages.Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest prof pat Posted October 25, 2007 Share Posted October 25, 2007 I agree with most of what has been said, the trick is to use a fine file, and hard wood wedges to flatten out any dents. Then move one to 600 to 1000 grit paper, with great lighting.... the on to the wheel. Be careful they can be slippery little devels, always use gloves, and do not over-heat the part, as it will make it brittle. I restored many parts for restorers with great success. Patience is necessary to say the least. Be very careful putting the parts back on, as I cannot remember how many parts I had to redo, because the owner did not take his (or her) time to carefully, and slowly put them back on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FomocoService Posted October 25, 2007 Share Posted October 25, 2007 I don't know if I would use a DA.... esp one that's locked in! The exceptions would be stainless fender skirts or other large part. Most stainless pieces are comprised of compound curves etc... Even 800 grit paper in single-action(locked DA) can creates issues you don't want.Do it by hand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest elmo39 Posted October 26, 2007 Share Posted October 26, 2007 the trim that i did on my desoto was the trim that goes around the windsheild ,i suppose it would be called the windsheild revell moulding and it would be about 1" wide . i had no problems i just took it easy and controled the speed on the DA sander. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George K. Posted November 17, 2007 Share Posted November 17, 2007 This is an article I found regarding the restoration of stainless steel trim. It was found in Cars & Parts March 1988. Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George K. Posted November 19, 2007 Share Posted November 19, 2007 This is a follow up from my previous post to correct the attachment issues. Hopefully this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave@Moon Posted November 26, 2007 Share Posted November 26, 2007 For those interested, this article series was compiled by Amos Press and published as the book <span style="font-style: italic">The Resurrection of Vicky</span> (ISBN 9781880524121) in 1988. It's not too difficult to find, especially compared to finding all the old <span style="font-style: italic">Cars & Parts</span> issues. Fetchbook.info lists about 7 or 8 retailers with copies for sale. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Skyking Posted December 15, 2007 Share Posted December 15, 2007 I just refinished the stainless trim on my 60 Metropolitan. British stainless is very hard (there is alot of steel in it). After removing any dents I use a very fine file to make sure the area is flat. After the filing is done I wrap 400 grit paper on the file and use WD40 as a lubricant to ease the polishing of the paper, then I move to 600 grit and so on to 1500. After 1500 the stainless is ready for the buffing wheel. I use yellow compound to buff then finish off with a stainless polish called Southern Shine. This has always worked for me. Be very careful on the buffing wheel, parts can get caught and go flying, or take a finger........... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_tigermoth Posted December 17, 2007 Share Posted December 17, 2007 hello, i thought the only file work on stainless was to find high spots to work down. are you guys saying you are using the file to remove high spots? i will read the cars and parts article. regards, tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Skyking Posted December 17, 2007 Share Posted December 17, 2007 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: tigermoth</div><div class="ubbcode-body">hello, i thought the only file work on stainless was to find high spots to work down. are you guys saying you are using the file to remove high spots? i will read the cars and parts article. regards, tom </div></div>Yes, after you remove the dents, there will be tiny high spots..you don't want to file crazy, you'll make the metal thin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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