imported_fordmerc

Finally: I made a tool and removed the governor from below. The tool looks like a 1 7/16" hex wrench, but...critical design elements are: a.)wrench can be only 3/16" thick, b.) sides of the wrench can be no thicker than 3/8", and c.)in the absence of the pictured angling of the wrench arm, the fill plug for the OD had to be removed to allow clearance and fit. The wrench I made was only 5 in long, so I had a hard time getting enough force/torque to break the threads loose ( I used a pipe wrench on the end at right angles to the wrench handle, parallel to the plane of rotation). The wrench head was also mounted at 75 degrees to the long axis of the handle; this may not be necessary. End result: governor removed, new switch installed, OD still doesn't engage!!!!I would attach a photo, but haven't figured how to do it. Thanks for help and photos.

Photo seen and reviewed. The problem must be me. While the photo seems to be applied to the governor while the transmission and OD are out of the car, I have tried to use a similar tool and failed. However, you have given me a couple of ideas to model another tool, so I'll post when it works. Thanks IN reply to the post suggesting a strap wrench, there's not enough room to work in while the governor is in situ so a strap wrench might work when the unit is out of the car but not from below. I will continue to work to a resolution because there's no way I'm going to take the unit out when all else works Thanks again for assistance.

If anyone has a photo of the tool KMO 608 I'd really appreciate it. I've spent some time in the past 2 weeks under the Packard trying to adapt various tool patterns to the governor using the '51 tool, J4653, as a model. If no photo available, can someone describe how the earlier tool is constructed. So far, every model I've made fails for one reason for another. There isn't much room there for twisting and turning and since I'm not an engineer, my brain isn't solving the problem. Any additional help or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks

I want to make my rubber trunk mat look "like new". It is dry and had cracks, now stabilized by patches on the back. Repros not available. Wear will be nil, it does not flex after installation. Will any black paint do or should I just go with tire blackening product?

The hard rubber question posted below didn't address softer rubber: bumper arm grommets. I have dried and warped old grommets on the '39 Mercury. What should I use to reproduce these? (The video link was somewhat helpful) Any other directions, guidance, links on "how to..." would be appreciated

very helpful and lucid explanation I'll make a tool and check out the other sites of potential failure. Thanks

What is tool KMO 608 suggested to remove the governor? Is it basically a hex wrench of unique dimensions? I have NOS Packard Part No.418710 (governor switch) offered as replacement part. It has 2 wires (Y and YwG) and all available photos of governor switches show 2 wires coming from them. My old unit (in situ) is covered with a rubber bonnet but seems to have only one wire connected to a BwR wire in the harness (consistent with wiring diagrams). If the NOS part is appropriate, can anyone tell me the proper connection of the 2 wires? If one is the ground, where does it attach? Comments and advice appreciated P.S. My overdrive doesn't work:governor seems to be the problem since there is no green indicator light on at any time, wiring is new and seems to be appropriately connected, solenoid could be the culprit, but at the moment I'm fixated on the governor switch.

I blew it!!! :The real topic of my concern is the SHIFT linkage. I may re-post the problem later when no one may remember my mental lapse.

A frequent bit of advice is to "tighten the steering linkage". I have a '41 120. What does this mean??? If it refers to adding additional thin shim washers, where do you get them? (In the local car parts stores they laugh; the hardware stores have never seen them.)If it refers to shims around/through the holes and the rods through them, where do you get these??? Manuals are not helpful. Comments would be appreciated. A secondary problem is the unavailability of appropriately sized brake line copper washers. A source would also be appreciated.

I don't know. I hope someone would answer this question. I'm reasonably sure the fronts are the same.

NEED '39-40 Mercury rear fender (one or both). Rear and bottom parts should be "pretty good" John: euphonium@adelphia.net

A dual chamber system is obviously better; is there a replacement dual chamber system for my car ('41 120)? No one has addressed what I see as a big problem: the column shift fulcrum runs through the master cylinder housing. This makes it look like a big job and also makes it seem that any replacement dual chamber system must be specific to this car. Or am I making things overcomplicated?

Is this a job to be tackled by a Packard novice? Except for access issues it looks like a standard master cylinder remove, repair, replace. Any comments?

Recognizing that reducing rusty resonance will not impede the tintinabulation from my trumpets, I will glaze the pit, so when the button is hit, a melodious melange of mellow musical tones will resonate across the roads and lands through which I travel (after restoration is complete) Thanks for the alliteration to assuage my apprehension.

What will happen to the sound quality if I fill rust pits on the horn trumpets with glaze before painting? I'd like to get rid of the pits for aesthetic reasons, but I worry about the sound for musical reasons!

OK! Now I will tell 'em like it is! Thanks for info. Simple as it seems, your instructions provided answers to to questions I didn't know enough to ask and no one asked them of me.

Follow up: Thanks for ideas. Looking for "wire" springs is a better idea than "coil" springs; I didn't use the right words. Nevertheless, ready-made springs are all double-cone upholstery springs and mine are (were)cylindrical. Modern cars use mostly "no-sag" type springs. Upholstery spring suppliers seem unfamiliar with car seats. Custom manufacturers are willing to make a spring if I can tell them load (per spring), deflection, wire gauge, and spring rate as well as diameter and height. Since I don't know the answers to most of the questions, the engineers are unable to continue the conversation. I will continue my quest.

Are single seat springs available? I would like to replace the broken ones in my front seat. Mine are cylindrical and all I've found so far are conical upholstery springs. Of course I'd need springs of different heights.

At what points on the frame (or elsewhere) should I place support when I want to put my 120 on a lift? This is a reprise of a question I asked with different words and comes up again when I want to support the car on jacks for the winter. Packard manuals don't even describe a jack for changing tires. There must be a "best" way to raise the car on a lift or to place it on jacks. Opinions sought.

rubber is '39 Mercury

I need recommendations to restore/refurbish rubber. My rear quarter window rubber molding is pliable and fairly soft but still it looks dry and cracked in areas. It is not reproduced so I can't replace it. Any advice/suggestions appreciated. There is some paint overspray on it also. Will paint remover hurt?

I'm learning but frustrated. After smoothing dents and sanding with 1000 grit I still have too many sand marks to polish easily to a mirror finish. Should I sand at higher grit nos., get coarser buffing compound, or just keep on buffing (which is taking far too long for an unsatisfactory result)? Advice appreciated; specifics will help.

Although I have no solution yet, my '41 has a similar problem: sloppy into 1st, can't get into reverse even if I try to hold the lever in position. I suspected the ball bearing fork detent/interlock inside the case however they seem to be functioning well before I cleaned and lubricated the spring and balls. Although I have checked the linkage, it was "perfect" per specs and it seems to be too good/precise to be the problem. This must not be a unique problem; I'll follow this post diligently and hope a solution pops up.

Well, I discovered an access panel above the transmission! Since the lever arm will not go into reverse, I started to remove the transmission cover to take a look. Now I am unable to remove the cover, even after removing the arms. Are the shifting forks wider than the opening of the transmission case or is there some special trick to removal of the cover?

I do have the R9 overdrive and of interest, the overdrive does not work: thus, a big clue! Unfortunately, the shift linkage seems to be at the side of the transmission; a "top-loading" access would be a great idea. I fear I am getting closer to transmission removal; any experts available to fix it or talk me through the process?