buick man

… ah yes we agree that lowering a car and as testimony from various back seat passengers can attest to ... get's a little old and tiresome after awhile … as many who have followed the cool mantra and equipped or transformed their street cars into faux track cars can attest to this fact as well which is driving a race ready wanna be track car around town is a thrill a minute for about the first 60 minutes, but all that jarring, squeaking and grinding gets tiresome vary quickly … So now here we see a photo of guy named Fred with his caddy. It looks bagged, but it is not. The secret here is in Fred using a Craftsman's lawn tractor rear end for that serious lean slider look. Fred had initially just simply cut his springs to affect that lower cool look and not to be out cooled even shortened the "hang n dangle" of his furry white dice which if you have a keen eye are barely visible behind the rear view mirror… Fred realized that if you reduce the number of coils on a given diameter spring by just simply cutting off coils, the dynamic recoil action will be drastically reduced thereby stiffening the spring and reducing it's over rebound travel capabilities. Alas, poor cool seeking Fred found that one has to increase the diameter as well when shorting a spring in order to maintain and affect the same or near similar dynamics of the taller and smaller diameter spring …

Consider this I ran across regarding valuation concerns …… Unfortunately, most of the so called price guide sources rely heavily on auction results because they have easily sourced and published sales prices and more importantly are used because little time is involved or needed to come to a valuation estimate pseudo or not. However with that said, this method lacks the use of any stringent and realistic comprehensive methods regarding rigorous evaluation and valuation methodologies of a particular car and as a result no real true market survey determination is made. This is also true with many classic car insurance companies and some car appraisers as well, which via convenience rather than accuracy also rely heavily on this auction method as well. But as can be seen below, this method offers many pit falls in determining not only understandably correct value, but in determining value in a wide range and types of cars. Also, for example for insurance purposes the best way to "Value" your car for the policy determinations is to take it to an established restorations shop and ask them what it would cost if they were to take the car in and rebuild it as new, then subtract for wear and tear using a educated best estimate. This way one would not be a slave to faux appraisal methods as stated above nor would one be subject to a value for their car that is way below what it truly worth ….. About Auction Results: GUIDES THAT RELY SOLEY ON AUCTION RESULTS DO NOT REFLECT THE MARKET AS A WHOLE FOR MOST VEHICLES. Auctions are just one part of the collector car marketplace. Their influence is very strong at the top end of the market and generally decreases as the cars get less expensive and more common. Many collectors get the impression that if they see a 1957 Chevy sell for $80,000 at a major auction, then theirs must be worth that, too. This is not the case. Auctions often bring above market prices for very nice cars. The reasons are many: there's money in the audience ready to buy, egos come into play, bidders can get caught in the moment, and sometimes the cars that show up to an auction such as Barrett-Jackson or Pebble Beach are stunning, one-of-a-kind, mega-buck restorations.Unfortunately, all is not always as it seems at auction. Sometimes prices are bid up with "phantom" bidders, cars are declared sold that aren't, and the bidding can even be completely fabricated. In addition, dealers may bid among themselves solely to create the illusion of both interest and high values for specific cars. Shocking!This doesn't mean that you should avoid collector car auctions. Go to a few and observe what goes on, get a feel for how things work and decide for yourself. If you do decide to bid, ask the seller a lot of questions. Sellers with good cars will usually be available and more than happy to talk to you. Regional factors: There are some minor regional differences in prices, mostly for vehicles under $20,000 in value. Prices traditionally tended to be highest in the northeast and on the west coast, but much of this differential has eroded. Very expensive cars operate in a global market. Show cars: In the not so distant past, perfect cars were quite rare. While not exactly abundant, they are far more commonplace today. Beause of this (among other things), the bar of what constitutes a perfect car is being out all the time. A #1+ concours ready classic of thirty years ago would fall short on the show field today. Regardless, now--as then--thessse vehicles have been treated to a very expensive concours quality, frame-off, no expensed spared, nut & bolt restoration and do not get driven. They can often command higher prices than CCMR's standard #1 value. Originality: All pricing assumes original, numbers matching engine. Deductions vary for engine swaps and can (but not always) be substantial -- be careful! Clean, totally original cars usually carry a premium relative to equivalent published prices. Original documentation is a big plus, especially on muscle cars. Having said that, there is a trend towards "upgrading" collector cars to make them drive and perform better than when they were new while retaining stock appearance. Depending on the model, these vehicles can suffer little to no value loss, and in fact we have seen plenty of instances where they can bring more than a pure stock example. This market condition has weakened since 2007 and 2008, making it difficult recoup restoration expenses. This likely means you'll see fewer of these "resto-mods" being created. It also means that the traditional premium for original cars is returning, although all values are down from the height of the market.High Option Vehicles: Cars & trucks that are highly optioned and/or accessorized with unique or rare factory options items such as visors, continental kits, power seats, tilt wheel, rare sound equipment etc. almost always command a premium. Figure an extra 10% or so depending on equipment.

… yeah we hear you Tank and no bad … you no doubt must get your parts whenever needed from somewhere and advice as well whenever needed from other sources and that's just peaches for you and we just gotta love it, however IMO if I was looking for both solid advice and availability of at least the correct parts I would at least seek his consultation and advice over many, many other outfits and individuals I have found throughout this industry as well as from many so called specialist websites and forums one runs across on the internet …. and this is a hobby that guys want to invest in and do the right thing so they don't have to go back in. There is a lot more to refreshing an engine than to just getting it to just run again like one would do with like a lawn mower or weed wacker …. unless that too was your hobby ….

… that is generally excellent advice, however one must be a generalist for that to be generally true and it generally is … :') …. however specifically in particular, Russ has been a noted nailhead specialist dating way back to when he had his specialty shop in the S.F. bay area and has been an author and an acknowledged and often quoted expert in both print, journals and books regarding railheads specifically …. and now his parts venture relate specifically to the nailhead ….

Jim: For what it's worth to you, the only go to guru guy I trust that will give you the best of the best with the best advice, time and parts is knowledgeable Russ at: http://nailheadbuick.com …. and for his parts department: http://nailheadbuick.com/enginerebuildparts

As Found on Craigs : https://bakersfield.craigslist.org/pts/5983067302.html 1. The Hollander, 34th Auto-Truck Edition, copyright 1968 / The "bible" of interchangeable automobile and truck parts. Complete and excellent condition2. The Hollander, 25th Auto-Truck Edition, copyright 1959 / Complete and great condition.3. Motor's Flat Rate and Parts Manual, 40th Edition, copyright 1964 / Complete and great condition.4. Motor's Auto Repair Manual, copyright 1965 / 1941-1957 Tune-up Data and Wheel Alignment.5. Motor's Truck and Tractor Repair Manual, 7th Edition, copyright 19546. Motor's Auto Repair Manual, 16th Edition / 1935-1953 repairs for Buick-Cadillac-Chevrolet- Chrysler-Crosley-DeSoto-Ford-Frazer-Henry J- Hudson-Kaiser-La Fayette-La Salle (Willys)- Lincoln-Mercury-Nash-Oldsmobile-Packard-Plymouth-Pontiac-Studebaker-Terraplane7. Chilton's Flat Rate Manual, 31st Edition, 1960 Year Identification / 1952-1960 Buick, Cadillac, Corvette & Chevrolet, Thunderbird, Mercury, Oldsmobile, Plymouth, Pontiac, Studebaker1953-1960 Imperial & Chrysler1960 Corvair1951-1960 Dodge1958-1960 Edsel1960 Comet & Falcon1950-1957 Hudson1949-1957 Nash1952-1958 Packard1950-1960 Rambler1960 Valiant1946-1955 Willy$40.00 each or all 7 for $200.00. If I'm not available please leave a message with your name, number and that your calling regarding Craigslist posting. Call Don : (661) 836-1804

… you know someone should come up with a way to transmit that nice old car smell over the internet as well… oh well who knows maybe some day ya think ? … hope it went to a good home … well that's best I can do …

… who knows … but for most likely less 3 Bills you gotta pretty sweet light weight survivor … slam a 20 ouncer down for courage and get er done …. then drive it home ...

… yeah I know a little tongue n cheek however, I grabbed a R.M. mustache bar that turned out to be in surprisingly good condition and yes I will hoard it as a backup piece and hang it with my other untouchables from the ceiling so it will be there if needed ….

… yeah I saw that too, but didn't see any feet wearing sandals in any of the photos and thought O.K. but then again noticed the overly groomed gravel driveway and that's kinda suspcious, so what the hey who knows … the ad claims to be in the Detroit metro area … humm … So go check it out … After all this could be that car Lamar that breaks the habit on 54's for ya and you could haul lumber in this thing as well … EDIT UPDATE: I was curious so I called the owner and he is indeed in the Detroit Metro area. His son gave him those plates and that's another story altogether … anyways, the front floor pan needs cosmetic surgery other than that it is solid as is the frame. The seller is a former BCA member to boot …. Someone go get this car … I would be in my truck with trailer right now if it wasn't for the fact that there's no doorman here this month at Hotel California … and I promised to keep a eye on things for him ….

Sunday Pick Of The Day : Found this ad on a site. A Special Coupe which has been sitting for years. Look at that dash and this Special comes with a padded glove box door too … Oh and gander a look or two at those bumpers, well preserved stainless belt line complete with intact factory inset paint, excellent grill and the rear end is no mercy date either …. Hurry ….Asking $ 3 K and probably negotiable …. by Dorthy Ey of Chatham, New Jersey …… So don't be Sleeper on this one ….. Go Get It ! http://chathamnj.global-free-classified-ads.com/listings/1-57-buick-coupe-it7747663.html Seller's Comments and Description: Rust Free un-restored / un-molested original car. 100% complete car. Super solid. Numbers Matching motor ( 364 cubic-inch Nailhead V-8 engine delivering 250 horsepower). RUNS, BRAKES and DRIVES. Car has been sitting for over 29 years in an enclosed garage.

… that's a good point Jolly John and thanks'. At this point it appears we were able to pull things together and got the job done … Mission Accomplished !

… yes a part located near St. Cloud, MN. … and it appears I have it under control and found someone to help me out. Thanks for asking :')

Found this on Craiglist - Here for your viewing pleasure is an all original 1953 Super with what the seller explains as : All for just $ 1,495.00 1953 Buick Super 4dr. 322ci V-8 wDynaflow and 12v. Has not been driven since the '70s. Runs . Needs brakes. Trans leaks. This is a project not a driver. Front floors need repair. Rears and trunk pan are good. Bottoms of doors are solid. All trim is there and vehicle rolls. Much of underhood is untouched. Some hoses, clamps, rad , washer bottle look to be original. Good oil pressure, lights work as does clock(may not be accurate). Accelerator and brake pedal show no wear.Cash, no trades. Purchaser to handle towing. Local sales only. Calls and texts only. $1,495.00 (810)597-5741 https://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/cto/5996872509.html Poster's 2 - Cents : Spray the engine bay entirely with a Marvel Mystery OIl shower and a fast repaint in this original powder blue and start driving it …. appears all there and vey A PERIOD cruiser … or on second thought for that matter, Marvel the outside entirely, everything just like the engine bay to get all this Blush under control and off the surface, then wax down … then cruise on - yeah baby !

Just looking for anyone in the club that is near the St. Cloud, Minnesota area that would be willing to pickup a part and drive it to within an hours drive from Sioux Falls, S.Dakota where my brother could meet them and transfer it to him or perhaps more than one guy that could tag team the parts as close as possible to Sioux Falls where my brother would then meet up with you. I would reimburse you for your time & costs ? If so, then just PM to me directly and we shall talk … Thanks in advance … Dave Edit: I have edited this so the only way it makes it the easiest to do is to find someone or a combo a guys to tag team the parts to me as stated above Edit version 2.0 - Feb 10th : O.K. Just trying to make this workout and doable somehow. If someone could drive over and pick the parts up then take home and either store it for me and I will send someone to pick it up or to arrange for shipment options. The seller will not ship so I have to find someone to at least pick it up. So let me know …. Dave

Just looking for anyone in the club that is near the St. Cloud, Minnesota area that would be willing to pickup a part and drive it to within an hours drive from Sioux Falls, S.Dakota where my brother could meet them and transfer it to him or perhaps more than one guy that could tag team the parts as close as possible to Sioux Falls where my brother would then meet up with you. I would reimburse you for your time & costs ? If so, then just PM to me directly and we shall talk … Thanks in advance … Dave Edit: I have edited this so the only way it makes it the easiest to do is to find someone or a combo a guys to tag team the parts to me as stated above

…. well perhaps we can suggest that the O.P. here present to the seller of this 58, his extensive resume, in an attempt to convince the seller he must obviously know better ….

… our opinion from what we have seen over many years is that since the bell housing were aluminum it was left cast and unpainted from the factory. The main central valve body area sections were painted a dark gray or black and the rear sections were left cast surface as well. We have always seen original trans pans factory painted as the same color as the engine. The differing color combos and natural or not components are do doubt due to the fact that these sections were manufactured at different area/sites and then shipped or brought together into or at the factory and assembly on site at the transmission assembly/test section department then transported to the assembly line by the factory parts gophers when and where needed. The photo posted above appears to have a spray painted bell housing and what appears to be an overspray onto the rear section tube assembly. We would venture to state in our opinion the bell housing shown was bench painted separately during overhaul as can be evidenced by the indicated resulting smooth finish on the bell housing as these cast bell housing were not as smooth as when paint has been applied. If not painted silver, this same effect can be achieved by glass bead blasting the aluminum bell housings down to # 7 or # 3 bead and to a point of rendering a smooth consistent surface that mimics a faux silver cad or alumi-blast spray can paint job.

… O.K. doug we give up, who were "they" :') … ?

Found on Craigslist - Reportedly done to 100 pt OEM Factory Correct Specs as original : Note powder coated paint ( Note: non OEM but enamel silk screened Fonts in correct tangerine factory color reported to be 100 % authentic) Text from ad: Left over from the days when I was building 100 point 1958 Pontiacs. Powder painted and enameled silk screening in the exact correct colors. Will out last the factory lacquers by years. I spent a lot of time with my silk screener to get it just right. A detail no one ever got right. There is 9 plus different font types & sizes in the simple AC instructions. This unit will fit any General Motors application with the Rochester 4-Jet. I know it's correct for the Pontiacs and I believe it's also correct for the Buick's and Oldsmobile's. $395.00 I also have an extra lid by itself, restored $75.00 I also have one left of the oil filter housing, $125.00 I will paypal and ship. I Work Nights, So Please Call Between 3 P.M. and 2 A.M. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/pts/5950311478.html

… If you treated it with Stabil and it was REAL gas not corn-o-hol, then you may still be O.K. as I have reused older gas in the same manner. Drain the old gas out into a open clean tub and take a look. Filter it 3 times using paint gun filters place in mouth of a large plastic funnel. You can pick up these fine meshed filters for free at your local automotive paint seller as these filters will be very fine and any particulates will be removed that would interfere with jetting. Then add some gas enzymes and more stabile and use in either your car or in your chain saw or lawn mower. If it is liquid and filtered you should have no problems. If you want to fore go that, then you would have to purchase a gas container to hold it, then call your local friendly and helpful public refuge department and they usually have collection areas on site at the dump or call one of your local mechanic shops and they could tell you who or what is the local go-to for disposing the gas ...

Here's a "Heads Up" listing for anyone interested which we spotted on geebay for a rare-ish tall chrome bumper guard assembly complete that I have seen on 49-54 Buick front ends. Usually a thing to have for a 49 Buick …. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1954-Buick-Special-Front-Bumper-Guard-Accessory/261825038774?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140602152332%26meid%3D37d1d5b1b3a64ddc8d4bbe7052a9739d%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D11%26sd%3D282335125802

… nugget … don't let these well intentioned bunch frighten you as I sometimes too get stiff just listening to em … the method we subscribe to as stated above, just requires you to open the driver's side door and kneel down and take the clevis pin and cotter key out from the brake bracket next to the steering column and if you can still bend your elbows then no problem, then open the passenger's side and simply crawl in and lay down on your left side/back over the floor board and attach the pictured wide mouthed grips as shown, it fits right up in there easily and efficiently as the firewall bracket metal is not an obstacle which by any other approach, makes any other attempt to take the nut off a ball buster ... and no cave man banging in required …. I'm around 185 lbs and have had no problems with this so unless your waistline matches your I.Q. then you should have no problems ...

… yes it is a hydovac for a propane tank….

… Colin great to hear you are doing this … it appears you have a Moraine unit and not a Bendix unit. Very , very similar with some basic few internal differences though enough however that the kit for the Bendix you find on flee bay will be the incorrect one … so advise you find that specific one. Make sure you first obtain a 1957 or 58 Buick authentic shop manual and read the very detailed portions regarding the operation and rebuild of your unit. Also, do not be hood winked into believing the master cylinder needs to be "bored n lined". The only boring that will be done, will occur in the vicinity of your wallet … read up on the operation of the M.C. and you will discover this is true and that the unit operates and forces fluid throughout the system by a form of negative displacement and there is therefore no need to bore and sleeve the m.c. . Do a search on this forum and see what you come up with and report back and let us know …. oh btw: we are anticipating that you may not fully envision how to most efficiently go about removing the entire unit with the least amount of pain and suffering so here is a photo of our complete unit removed … this is a Moraine unit … please note the required precise instruments being used at their strategic attachment points …. yes one has to "spin" or turn the unit in the engine bay to get the unit out while at the same time under the dash that wide round mouth vise is holding onto the large almost inaccessible large nut hidden just above the brake pedal perch and cluster … thus the photo you see before you ...