Dave Henderson

Still here. Offers?

2 Carrorreria Bertone door sill plates, nice, 1 bumper pan, 6 "shiny" trim strips, 3 dull zink strips. All $150. Please PM me if interested.

'28-'30 Lincoln. This gasket is pictured in the Victor 1940 catalog as their number 692, replacing Lincoln number L-8357-C, 3 1/2" bore. Same for each side. The '22-'27 Lincoln gasket is also illustrated, it is similar but clearly different.

A. E. A. is the abbreviation for the Automotive Electric Association, Detroit, Michigan, organized April 10, 1917. Have you tried the AACA library?

If you are replacing the piston rings only and not re-boring, it would be wise to ream off any ridge that may be at the top of cylinders, in order to prevent damage to the ring or piston. . A shade tree alternative would be to bevel the top edge of the top ring, but that would shorten ring life and give possibly a poorer seal. Be careful to not remove metal from below the area the ring travels, or you will have another problem. Somewhat rusted cylinders can be cleaned up sufficiently with 180 wet-or-dry sandpaper. Use it on the non-rusty cylinders too, it won't remove much metal, but will remove the glaze and help the rings seat. Kerosene would be a good wetter for the paper. Put a clean oily rag over the crankshaft throws to catch the sandings, and wipe everything very clean. Change the oil soon after getting it giong. Starting with a low mileage engine is a big plus.

Many of the tag toppers for autos were giveaways with advertizing, often a brand of gas or insurance. Yours, with reflectrors and no advertizing, could have been intended mainly for bicycles.

Yes, I should have looked there too, I have an old trunk full of J. C. Whitney catalogs, but couldn't remember how far back they went. Warshawsky was their parent or overarching company, so I looked in theirs instead of digging out JCW's. Some afternoon when I am not doing anything. . . . . A picture of the caps from a catalog and its date would be cool. I'm betting they were about a half a buck each. Dave

Good question Keiser, what year(s) were they from? Patent infringement suits or fear of them no doubt were what resulted in these being produced with "Bool" or "Fool" (take your pick) rather than "Ford". In the '70's my office was close to the U S Patent Office, and access then was wide open. At lunch time I sometimes strolled there and went back into remote areas searching out automotive patents, among other things. I recall finding a stash of old Pep Boys catalogs. After perusing them, the reason for their being there became more understandable. In '30's catalogs, there were pages with mark-ups on the pictures of such acessories as hood ornaments for example, that could easily be seen to be copies of the real OEM things, and presumably were the subjects of infringement suits. I've looked in catalogs from Pep Boys, Western Auto, Warshawsky, Sears, and Montgomery Ward spanning '36 through '59, but could not find these caps. So that mystery remains! Dave

Wow! This thread is yielding far more inputs than I expected, and I thank all for it. Maybe I've been a bit too quick in my disapproval of bc/cc, but despite its advances, the difficulty of repairing it hangs heavy on my mind. My only experience with it was doing a full sideswipe repair on an old Mazda about 20 years ago with lacquer based bc/cc. It came out good and was relatively easy and inexpensive back then. Darn, I miss the ease of applying the old lacquer, and its pleasing results, before the formula changes I am hearing about. Perhaps I've become mental-blocked, this whole paint thing has me a bit frustrated. Keep those comments coming! Dave

Thanks guys. Whatever I do, I won't use bc/cc. In my opinion it's a fake paint job. An old used car dealer's trick was to shoot clear coat over old tired paint to revive the gloss. Guess my recollection of that practice has jaded my thinking, but I just don't like the paint system's concept. My '93 Buick which has been mostly garaged has its bc/cc paint coming off in small chunks right down to the primer. On old cars this seldom happened, either with the enamel or lacquer paints. Please keep those comments coming. Dave

One trick sometimes used to resuscitate Model A Ford coils is to carefully open one up, gut it, and insert and connect up a VW 6V coil. Whether this would this work for you would have to be determined. Dave

If any one is dying for these for a '30-'31 fun car, I have a set of 5, never used. Junk quality flash chrome. Probably from Pep Boys or Western Auto in the old days. If your A isn't denegrated enough already, these will do the trick! Dave

Thanks guys. Still more answers welcomed. Dave

I've been away from it for a long time.....If you are still using it, what supplier was your source? Is it is all imported? Brand names? Does it level out nicely and have the depth and quality as did the old domestic brands? Are there still good high temp thinners out there? In the past I always used DuPont. Are there still some name brand USA company's stocks available? I am planning to do black. Your comments and experiences would be much appreciated. Dave jrdshen@verizon.net

It points to the master cylinder, since drums plural heat up. Could be as simple as an improper adjustment of the linkage between the pedal and the piston in the mc, or a defective internal part, preventing the pressure from being relieved and allowing the fluid to return to the reservoir when the pedal is let up.

Dave, Hopefully, it is just that you are having shifting difficulties. These can almost always be worked out externally, unless it's caused by something like bad synchro clutches. When you drove the Cord, if you could get into all the gears, did they all sound ok? Low shouldn't knock, but it's a straight cut gear and isn't real quiet, 4th is an overdrive and will wine a little. If the trans sounds good, that's almost the whole thing. Hooray if so. If not, keep in mind that there have been some bad reproduction gears sold over the years. You will need to identify what the origin of any good remaining gears was, and find out if currently available replacement ones are compatable. Make sure that it has had modifications to the splined thrust washer, and to the synchronizer to prevent the ring from allowing the balls and springs to pop out. When that happens, it likely is goodbye tranny. These mods are absolutely essential. In addition to some bad gears, there were some bad shift forks too, just cast instead of being forged! The grease pump in the front may need rebuilding for besting lubrication. If you are having shifting trouble, I have a number of ACD Newsletter transmission shift articles tab-marked, and will go through and list these for you if wanted. It would take a lot of time to find them otherwise. The Gear Committee article in N/L #3 is a very good read. Sid Ayers Transmission Manual is a great reference too, and I believe the club has it available for 10 bucks or so. Did you notice that time capsule '36 Nash in the flea market at Winchester? It had door handles with the main part like the Cord's! Dave

It's all still here. See above. Anyone intersted in the whole enchalada, the Super Turbine 400 tranny B 68A537A, BA68-11241, a 455 crankshaft #1379242, and a quadrajet carb 17056240 with intake, for $100? Located Vienna, Va. Thanks for reading. Dave

The cover found a new home quite some time ago. Good luck, hope you can locate one. Dave

Dave, I will look for you. Only 59? Ah youth. One more thing about the DMV, having your gender recorded wrong that is, you mean that they corrected it without you having to strip?

Mark IV air conditioning was aftermarket, not of Mopar origin. They were often installed on older cars for which there were no OEM ac's. The gray object with the red stripes is a South Wind heater that operated on gasoline. No waiting around for heat, they did a good job. A bit scary though. The upside-down box marked Champion is a spark plug blast cleaner. The 6 cyl GM engine you mentioned is Chevy if ohv, Pontiac or Olds if flathead. Could also be GMC truck, which used Pontiac engines some years.

Dave, glad you took my comment about changeing the letter for what was intended... humor. As for types of plates, a young lady here has a '66 Mustang convertible that the Va. DMV allowed to register using Va. "Conv" plates. (and she's not a looker either) They are some weird commercial plates I think. My most memorable DMV experience was when they "recalled" all Va. antique plates a year or so ago and made us re-register and add condition certrifications. I'd had antique plates on my Cord since about '68. Upon not receiving the same letter for the Cord as I got from them for my other cars, I inquired. I was informed that tag # 6637 belonged to someone else! Moreover, there was absolutely no record of my car at all, not even a trace of a title! I had the title and a tattered registration card and provided copies, but that only took care of the title part. They still insisted that I get new (much crummier) antique plates. Later, somehow, the unfairness of it all got to some (rare) kind heart at DMV Richmond, and I got a call telling me I could keep my (porcelain) plates after all. Hope to make it to the Winchester show and will try to look you up. Dave

What? Everyones letting this one just slip by and not suggesting that Dave simply change the middle letter on the CAR to an M???

Bumpers are sold.

The windshield is still here, and I'm in a cleaning out mood, so if you are one of the few owning that car, this should be hanging on your garage wall, or even put pictures of your car in it! (see how desperately I want to unload this?) An outright steal at 50 bucks. The restorer of a Rockne now has the trunk rack. Dave

Still have these. Doesn't some one want them for $25.....