Dave Henderson

I believe the '29 Buick had triple bumper bars, ergo this must be a '30.

Did you remove the lens from the rim? If not, try that, and clean it up, should be a number there. I believe you will find that "Brown Col's" in the triangle is short for Corcoran Brown, Columbus.

McCord 6210 is for '37-41 DeSoto and '37-'52 Chrysler, as per NAPA 1952 catalog, (ergo may fit Chrysler models after '52 also). NAPA linked it to Victor 1029.

There should be a number on the lens, probably around its hidden rim. That could be a clue as to what it is from. A Parabeam lense of a slightly larger diameter was on Hudson, Stutz, franklin, Moon, Diana cars and International trucks in the late '20's.

Victor 659 is for Erskine, '27-'29; Victor 911 is Dodge '34-'40 and Plymouth '35-40. From 1940 Victor catalog.

While there was mention of a Duesenberg in the article, I'm surprized there was no mention about the Auburn powered by Cummins that was to be driven from New York to the west coast by C. L. Cummins, maybe I just missed it. The year was said to be 1934 according to the article, so the Auburn would have been an early '35, it's not a '34. Interesting that no company would insure. This snippet is from one of those wonderful old Fawcett 75 cent paper-bounds from the '50's, entitled The Old Car Book, by John Bentley.

For some indication of the quantity produced, the new car registration figure for Reos was 6,762 in 1931, as per The Production Figure Book For U. S. Cars, by Jerry Heasley. Actual production figures were not given. Accordingly, survivors are relatively few.

Model T. Flywheel cap screw wrench.

Beautiful 1932 styling. Easy to be mis-led by what looks like a "P", which may instead be a micrometer, inferring precision . The 3 acorns were a tip-off that it is Olds.

Wasn't he being kinda frugal, giving her just the fluid when she needed a pump too??

Whenever a large lot of old stock is purchased, assuming it hasn't already been cherry-picked there will be some hot items, some not quite so much in demand, and possibly quite a bit that will be around for a long time. After all, for reasons unknown it didn't sell back when. Parts for popular cars that have survived in large numbers would be snapped up by buyers, while ones for cars that no one wants to restore will just sit and gather dust. Consider trying to buy the cream of the lot. Make your offer accordingly. If you must take it all, after the good stuff is gone, You could always sell off the 'residue" as a lot for a cheap price. Seems there is always a buyer if the price is right.

It's all still up for grabs, offers?

The red fluid is stuck very high up in the thermometer. Perhaps the car it was on got very hot at one time and it didn't come back to the proper level. It likely is ok though, and the fluid can probably be returned to its proper place by attaching a strong nylon cord about 3 feet long at the top, where the wing is thinner, and twirling it at a fast pace. I'd remove the cap if it comes off. Centrifugal force will do the job. I have used this cure on several Boyce Motometers. But be careful.

Dimensions would be of interest to potential buyers, especially the length and width, as it needs to fit the size of the rack it would be attached to on a car. Judgng from the contour of the back, it would have best fit a sedan rather than a coupe'. There could be a maker's decal under the lid. It looks like it is a metal trunk, in which case it probably doesn't have a lining inside. The hasp in the middle is a hardware store item someone added on. The latches originally locked. Perhaps the key was lost. You might ask the elderly lady if she has any pictures of old cars the family owned. They could possibly yield a clue. Good luck.

I clicked on it and it came through fine. Thanks auburnseeker for a great resource!

A popular aftermarket dress-up item, the Pines Trim transformed the '36 Ford into the poor man's '36 Cord. Does anyone remember the discs, probably made by Lyon, for '35 Ford wire wheels that made them look solid like the '36's? My $75 coupe had a set in '49. I haven't seen any since. Ad is from '36 Western Auto catalog. Love those old add-ons!

If trouble persists after all efforts, and you still don't want to go the radiator shop route, here is a do-it-yourself rodding technique that worked for me on a '73 Plymouth Scamp, without removing the top tank. Get a length of 1/16" welding rod and a drill with a slightly larger bit. Drill a hole in the top of the tank. It's brass and can easily be soldered up afterwards. You will find that by inserting the rod through the hole at slight angles you can access and rod out more than just one tube, and as you go along you will be able to figure the best place for additional holes. In my case, it wasn't necessary to drill more than a surprizingly few holes. Carefully work the rod until it hits bottom. You may find some tubes solidly blocked, in which case it's best to leave well enough alone. Then thoroughly flush, countersink the holes slightly, and apply solder sparingly, so as to not let it drip through. Afterward it can be smoothed and painted.

OOPs, I should have said to test the radiator for exhaust fumes with a sniffer, not the crankcase.

Although water comes out of the bottom of the radiator clean, could there still be a flow problem? A shade tree garage rule of thumb is that it should flow out at the bottom as fast as it can be put in at the top. A trip to a good radiator shop for a professional examination might be in order. Another possibility would be a head gasket leak. A sniff test of the crankcase fumes with an exhaust analyzer might diagnose this. I don't know if overheating is a common problem with flathead Cadillacs in particular, but I do recal a friend having the same problem with a '41 back in the late '50's, and it turned out to be the radiator.

Yeah, what isn't buried way down in the guts! Under the hood it's very unfriendly.

Thanks Rusty, I have a "tee" to put in line for hooking up a gage, and may do that. Have heard that there may already be a plug on the filter base for this, so ifs there is it will be used instead. Some weird things can cause the warning to come on in the case of the Northstar engine, and sometime it's for real. Example, the oil pump apparently runs off the end of the crankshaft, and is simply held on by the tightness of a bolt, which if not tight enough will permit slippage, and real low oil pressure. Unbelieveable.

Marty, you are so right, and I stand corrected. There they were for sure in my late '50's Warshawsky catalog. I should have sought a second source of info, it's important when researching, but I had recollections of them from the later era, and I figured that Pep Boys would have to have had them if they were around in the late '50's. Ok, I wasn't going to admit it, but I had them on a Peugeot 403 in the early '70's. Looked pretty cool until they started flapping around. Some you win, some you lose.

Porta walls were the poor man's whitewall. After not many miles they ceased snugging up to the tire's sidewall and flared out, looking bad. Except for some metal whitewall discs seen on Chrysler Corp. cars in the '40's (that covered the wheel, not the tire), the concept of "add-on" whitewalls came later. From the best of my recollection, they date from the late '60's to early '70's. (They don't appear in late '50's or early '60's Pep Boys catalogs). Their popularity didn't last long. A rubberized white paint was also available to transform blackwalls.

The switch isn't expensive, just darn hard to get at! A large motor mount is in the way. I'm picking up a switch today and will flog at it this weekend.

Sounds like you have a combination of things capable of contributing to the problem. First, that 12 volt cable isn't heavy enough for 6 volts and alone could be the problem. You could add another one like it in parallel to prove it out, or just get a proper 6 volt one which you will need anyway. And, aha, a newly rebuilt engine. And one that apparently has been sitting around for a while. It may be a bit on the tight side until broken in. What weight oil is in it? If you don't know, you could drain it and refill with a very light oil for start-up and a short break-in run. Timing can also cause hard cranking, if the plug fires too early on the upstroke.