Paul Falabella
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Posts posted by Paul Falabella
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Charge for a recap,new OZ4, and MP3 Aux input was $220+ s&h
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Had mine redone at South Texas Antique Electronics.Had an aux input installed. For parts check Antique Electronic supply, Tubesandmore.com.
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Just dawned on me. The radio and power antenna can operate without the ignition on but the power seat will not work without key! Go figure!
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Just checked eBay. No 55 rods but there is one for a 57 if anyone needs. Just gotta hit Ebay on the right day.
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CARS item HIR546. Didn't order yet but looks like em'.
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I am assuming a contact adhesive should be used as well.
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The round hood insulator things(sombreros) are available but I can't find the thin steel bars anywhere. Anyone know a source or home made remedy? Closeup photo of an installation?
Thanks
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That was only an 80 spray. I can shave a second off at 150.
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That makes sense.The voltage output was only 11.3. I wired the radio directly to the light switch and it works fine. With this mystery box it was wired to the ignition and only worked with key in the on position. One problem down.
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That's what the schematic and the shop manual says but it just didn't seem right, thanks.
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Actually I have the Ventiports hooked up to the NO tank and I purge through them. Looks cool before a run. 23.45 at 62.3 mph last time out.
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Let me ask this. Are the radio and power antenna leads supposed wired to the light switch, allowing both to be operated without the ignition on?
This not the case on my car and I wish to return the the wiring back to original.
Thanks
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Radio stopped working the other day. No power in lead. Traced lead to behind left kick panel(not supposed to be there). It was connected to a box with several other wires going in(have not traced these yet). Inside the box is a 25 micro farad cap and several tiny resistors on a board. Voltage coming out on 1 wire was 11.3. Battery reads 12.3, same as several other circuits.
Radio lead, I believe, is supposed to be connected to the rear bottom lug(with antenna power) of the lamp rheostat combo switch. This would allow the radio to be turned on without the key in the on possition. Is this correct?
And what of this peculiar box. Any ideas?
I hate juryrigged wiring with no roadmap!
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Cleaned up pretty well. 100% better.
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I am cleaning up the ventiport/portholes on the Roadmaster. What color black is correct? Mine are too faded to tell the original.
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Thanks for the kind words.
Original owner didn't spring for extra $14 for the XAA paint job. XAX would've been $23. Geez!
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Not everyone gonna like it. AAA now XAA. Roof paint was shot.Needed redoing. Black, Black, Black pretty boring. Soooo. Nile Green, late 55(I think mine is a late 55). Found some original painted interior trim which leads me to think most of the painted interior parts were this color.Might even go XAX. Anyway, nothing that can't be put back.
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Finally got the last molding off(upper rear window reveal). Used two flat blade screwdrivers and gingerly pried them up. Minimal deflection, should go back OK.
For anyone attempting to remove the door and roof moldings there was copious use of sealer and adhesives under many of these moldings and care should be taken so as not to bend the molding or have it fly off and scratch something.
What looks like corrosion in the picture of the upper rear window is fossilized adhesive. A PITA to work with!
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Got a small, ratcheting driver set from Sears. Ground down one of the Phillips bits and this is what got the screws off.
One last molding,rear window,upper reveal, see my next post if you have the answer.
Thanks
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55 Roadmaster 4dr sedan.Got every molding off(including the really fun ones at the top of the center post),in anticipation of painting the roof. except the upper rear window reveal. The 54 Fisher book says remove two nuts on either end,from inside of the car and carefully pry up molding. I found another nut in the center.
The problem is I am not comfortable with amount of force I am needing to remove this molding. It is free to about 1 1/2 feet from the end(gutter). Does not seem to want to move past there.
Am I missing a nut? A fastener? Is this thing glued tight with sealer(generously applied to several other moldings)?
Anyone else ever tackle this?
I think the moldings I took off weigh more than my Pontiac G6.
Thanks in advance.
Paul
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That is a strange way to secure a molding. Fisher body manual shows a cross section. The molding appears to be screwed from the bottom, through a pinch seem which is the very front of the roof. I just can't believe the only easy way to get this molding off is to remove the windshield!
Want get the roof painted and would like to do it without moldings.
Gonna have to find a real short Phillips drill bit and play with that I think.
Any other ideas?
Thanks
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Upper windshield molding appears to be screwed to roof from below. No clearance even for stubby screwdriver to remove. Drill bit type Phillips only way to tackle this? Special tool?
Thanks
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Looking at the photos, I'd have to consider this a parts car. 2 clips and 4 doors.Deep into 5 figures to make a decent driver.
Laugh at me, throw me out but I wouldn't go past 3 figures.
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Thanks George. Thinking of medium to lighter green roof color and the black of the door may be obvious. Will probably need to do the inner/upper doors and jambs roof color as well.
What did you use to remove the rear window reveal moldings?
Car looks great.
Paul
1957 Buick Specifications
in Buick - Post War
Posted
That's pretty comprehensive.