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Paul Falabella

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Posts posted by Paul Falabella

  1. Nothing conclusive, but after studying a bunch of two tone Super and Roadmaster 4drs, it appears that the second roof color,more commonly went below the gutter,top part of doors and around the back window.

    My question now, which is harder to see in photo's; Is the the roof color also applied to the upper inside door and upper door jamb?

    Can't find a shot of a two tone sedan with the doors open.

    Thanks.

  2. Pretty much any other GM car I've had, used a hex shaped ignition key and round for the locks, but not this one.

    Interesting key story. Years ago my Dad(Lockheed mech in the 50's-60's) gave me his Kennedy 520 tool chest. In it was a GM key to his 59 Chevy. If he ever lock the keys in the car, he could go back into the hangar for the spare.

    That key starts my Buick!

  3. Looking at the exploded views in the chassis book,seems the only things to cause a leak in that spot would be a freeze plug. Maybe the head gasket, but I think you'd see that. Take a paper towel and and start from the head. wipe down till you see some antifreeze to get a better idea where it's coming from.

  4. Not to beat a dead horse. Both of these cars are for sale on ebay.I borrowed a picture. The two tone is what is shown in the 55 brochure with the upper secondary color going around the back window. As I said I have seen both ways of doing the second color(above and below the gutter). I am thinking either it was offered both ways or around the back window is correct. Love that green one!

    post-54093-143141729136_thumb.jpg

    post-54093-143141729138_thumb.jpg

  5. Of just that particular body? In my case a model 72 the body number is 3023 but the VIN is 53565. So the VIN is the total number of all models at that factory(Atlanta) and the body # is just Roadmasters? Is that correct?

    Hi Sean, thanks for that information. Using what you state, as I suspected, I think my car would have been produced late in the model year. Some of the interior was resprayed but I think was originally one of the late 55 and 56 colors. If production ended 8/55 I would take an educated guess my car was built around May 55.

    Thanks again,Paul

  6. Of just that particular body? In my case a model 72 the body number is 3023 but the VIN is 53565. So the VIN is the total number of all models at that factory(Atlanta) and the body # is just Roadmasters? Is that correct?

  7. I see what you mean on the Plymouth. The Buick 52 & 72 sedans have that moulding just below the top of the door that goes around the back window and I have seen two tone vehicles with the upper color both ways. I actually prefer the "around the back window" look. post-54093-143141724195_thumb.jpgNote the 48 star flag!

  8. OK here is more confusion. I just looked at my 55 brochure and it shows a Roadmaster 72(white over green) and a Super 52(white over red). Both pictures show the roof color into the upper doors and around the back glass. The Century and Special upper colors are above the gutter on sedans(in brochure). In pictures I have seen both methods of two toning. Anyone know the answer to this sleep depriving conundrum? Or I might have to stick with AAA.

  9. Roof needs to be done.I like that sandwich look. I would get the roof done first since it needs it. Thinking of Nile green, a late 55 and 56 color, which I think was the color of the interior before it was partially resprayed. Lotsa two tones on my street in the Bronx,always liked them especially a tan and burgundy 56 down the street.

    Looks like the windshield reveal moulding removes with screws from below? How about rear glass reveal, clips? Screws from inside?

  10. Suppose someone was factory ordering a 55 Roadmaster 4dr sedan in 1955. If he were to select a two paint job in,say black and another color,where would the second color be? The roof above the gutters? The roof with the door tops and rear glass surround? Either or?

    And what about below the sweep spear? What were the choices?

    Hypothetically of course.

    Thanks

  11. Hi Joe, Thanks for responding. Actually I need the the fan, collar and set screw more than the motor. I had to cut the collar with a dremel to get it off, it was frozen so hard. In the process the fan,which I think is press fit came off. I am using JB weld to attach whats left of the collar to the fan. A couple days of PB Blaster has freed up the motor somewhat and I didn't mangle the shaft to badly. From what I see this unit doesn't turn at turbine speed so I am going to try to jury rig it back together.

    However, if that fan is taking up valuable real estate I may be able help you out, let me know what you need.

    Thanks,

    Paul

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