steelman

Starters are one of the few things on these cars that are not unique to the Riviera. Any starter or alternator shop used to have exchanges in stock. Make a few calls, and you should find an already rebuilt exchange locally.

Did you put a 27 or 27F series battery in it when you replaced it? This is a larger (physically) battery with more amps than the 24 or 24F series most cars this age take. Battery tray is made to fit a 27 series, and that is what you need.

How old is the battery? Second, check the ground connections. Make sure the battery terminals are clean and the ground cable is tight on both ends. Sounds simple, but you'd be surprised.

I also think it is cleared. In Florida, surface rust happens on bare metal overnight. Just ask Rob J. No way, even indoors, he could have kept this bare metal and clean for as long as he has. Even if you wipe it with WD-40 every day. Also notice the horseshoes have been removed and the holes are filled, and the door handles have been changed. No obvious filler in these places, so these were metal worked or leaded in. Not a Riviera guy, so he didn't know these weren't right. And depending on the type clear used, it may have to be removed before any further painting can be done. Hate to spend 5-10K on paint and it all peel off in three months.

Bravo! I love it! Great pictures. Love to see some earlier ones. Again, bravo. Nice work.

These are not Buick only. All GM coil spring cars and even GM trucks used the same spring retainer. Impalas, Chevelles, and 60-72 GM trucks will all have this same retainer. Expand your search a little and they shouldn't be that hard to find, even in Europe.

From the Be Cool Air Conditioning Site. A history of air conditioning - BEE Cool mobile air conditioning 01933 359290, Northampton Kettering Corby Wellingborough Should you have a vehicle produced before 1994, or an import, you will have an R-12 air conditioning system, and you may have heard of new words and terms like "retrofit" and "alternative refrigerant". You may be given an option of "retrofitting" as opposed to merely replacing the entire system to use R-134a. In 1992, a new type of refrigerant for automotive air conditioning systems began to appear in new vehicles. R-134a was introduced to replace R-12 because R-12 contains ozone-damaging chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs). R-134a is ozone-friendly because it contains no CFCs. It is also non-toxic and non-flammable, and meets all of the Environmental Protection Agency's criteria for alternative refrigerants. By 1995, all new vehicles were factory-fitted with R-134a air conditioning systems after the production of R-12 was phased out, and today this refrigerant is illegal in the UK. Retrofitting involves making any necessary changes to your system, which will allow it to use the new industry accepted, "environmentally friendly" refrigerant, RS24. This new refrigerant which was developed by DuPont primarily for Rolls-Royce, has a higher operating pressure, therefore, your system, dependant on age, may require larger or more robust parts to counter its inherent high pressure characteristics. If not performed properly, may reduce cooling efficiency that equates to higher operating costs and reduced comfort. It is important to note that you CANNOT use R134a in a R12 system for several reasons. The molecular size of the refrigerant is not compatible, meaning that R134a will leak from a system that is designed for R12, in the same way that water pours through a sieve. The component used as a desiccant in the Filter-Drier will not be compatible with another type of refrigerant. The lubrication oil contained in the systems are different, R12 systems use a mineral oil, and R134a needs a Pag oil. You cannot mix these two, as a reaction will take place within the system, and the oil will emulsify, and fill the system with something which looks rather like cottage cheese!! Beyond these reasons, the operating pressures of the refrigerants are completely different, and the compressors is designed to work at a specific pressure, as well as all of the systems barrier hosing etc. R134a is not a direct replacment for R12. Be careful of those that tell you it is.

Tony, I like the design of the rear bar, but it looks really close to the rear springs in photo 14. As my rear bags are wider than the stock springs, can you tell me how much clearance is really here? Maybe it is just an optical illusion?

The green one belongs to a guy from Las Vegas. Don't remember his name, but I have talked to him several times. The car looks better in person than it does in pictures. His hood emblem is an eyeball.

Ed, picture didn't post correctly. Can you post it again?

Ok, here we go. The good, the bad, and the ugly. Just my opinion, but get the top too low and it ruins the great lines these cars have. The GOOD. The BAD. And the UGLY.

Bernie, these are for you. I will post some with the top still on for Jouni in a minute, but came across these looking for pictures for him.

Pictures must be in my work computer. I thought I had these at the house, but don't. Will post these mid next week when I get back. A book that I have had for about 30 years is "How to Chop Tops" by Tex Smith. Can still find copies in print on line. In here is a whole chapter on wing windows and how to rework these. Get a copy of this book and read it several times. Lots of good info here you need to consider before you buy a saws-all and waste a good car.

I have some pictures on another computer I can post. With the early Riviera, a little is all you need. Anything more than 2" max with these and you loose the roof line, in my opinion. 3-5" is WAY TOO MUCH. I have examples of those too, to remind me not to do it.

Chris Nolan is right. Two 65s were both black and black. Had the three together, 65, 67, and 73, all black on black, then this one. Also in black on black. 1965 BUICK RIVIERA Lot 36 | Barrett-Jackson Auction Company

GM Obsolete shows to have one. See below.

A lot of poeple that frequent this site read each and every post. I read you original post. I read your repost. I read Ed's response. And I read your latest rant. So I myself count for at least four of the 100 times this post was read. 100 reads does not equal 100 different individuals. Each person who reads this post could have responded "Sorry, can't help", but that is not the intent of this forum. As Ed stated above, no one who has read your posts have had any factual information to pass along. It is not that we don't know anything, we just don't know anything about this subject, so we have not posted a response with advise to solve your issue. I apologize in advance for my rant.

He may be out of touch at the present, but Deanoko has a 63 and is a pilot for Alaska Airlines.

I don't know the exact year. All metal, no plastic. I think early to mid 90's, but again, I do not know the exact year.

Didn't find a black 63-64 with a painted grille, but found a few examples of painted grilles. Some worked better than others. Sometimes a picture can serve as a reminder of what not to do. Hope these help.

There just happens to be one on evilbay now. Maybe this will help. Buick : Riviera standard in Buick | eBay Motors

Results are in, and it looks like folks in Vegas like Riveras. The 65 GS hammered for $39,000, the 67 GS went for $46,500, and the 73 GS Stage 1 went for $29.000. Add a 10% buyers commission on top of these prices to get it out the door.

Not sure you have the right number. I can't match this to the numbers shown in this link, but maybe it will help. Chevrolet Early “Stovebolt” Six Cylinder Block Casting Numbers | Hot Rod Reference

Yes, they will fit. 6 hole, 5.5 inch bolt circle for both. May not fit a later model 4x4 with disc brakes, but will fit a 60-70 with drum brakes.

Still on the car, but I think this is the right one.