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Grandpa

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Everything posted by Grandpa

  1. Hi Logic2, Suggest you contact: Jenkins Interiors P.O. Box 1509 North Wilkesboro, NC 28659 Tel.: 336-667-4282 Father: Lewis Jenkins Son: Hill Jenkins Grandpa
  2. Hi 1937 Buick 66C, The following person restores Trippe lights and has parts: James Wallace 16438 Gilmore St. Van Nuys, CA 91406 Home: 818-785-7246 If you call - Jim is in his 80s and little hard of hearing. His hobby is restoring vintage lights. He has original and repro. repair parts. Jim recently purchased his first computer; I don't know his e-mail address. Jim is in the BCA and recently sold this 1937 Buick Special coupe. Jim is shown in the attached image in the chair with the tan hat. Grandpa
  3. Hi Ewing, Thank you for the above forum post. The attached image is of a 1948 Cadillac Series 62 convertible (the same body as the Buick Super and Roadmaster) left side door. The image is from the car owner's restoration web site (good restotation photos of a neat car) at: http://www.desserconsulting.com/ The lower edge of the door has the same three clips as my 1941 Buick convertible sedan. My current thinking is that the access opening in the door was covered by a waterproof fiber board panel that clipped in place over the opening. These fiber access panels were likely discarded when servicing parts within the door or were damaged by water. Grandpa
  4. Hi Patrick, Thank you for your post (above). I have talked with Doug and he doesn't recall seeing a door access panel on the convertible sedans that his shop has restored. Hopefully, someone that has restored a convertible sedan or convertible coupe can confirm if such a panel was installed on open cars and provide a picture of it. The convertible coupe access panel would be longer, but may be the same general design. Thanks again for your tip, Grandpa
  5. Hi West, I contacted D&D Classic Restorations in Covington, Ohio. The 1941 Cadillac convertible sedan that they are restoring is also missing the door access panels. Thanks Anyway, Grandpa
  6. Hi K8096, Last year I purchased the panels from a 62 series sedan and they are totally different. I have seached the shop manual, the parts book, and the Fisher body manual in the hopes of finding a picture of the convertible access panels - No luck. I suspect that the convertible coupe may have a similar, but larger, access panel. Thanks for your forum suggestion, Grandpa
  7. My car is missing the removable sheet metal panel on the front doors that is removed in order to service the window lift regulator and the door latch & lock. I would like to get a photo of this panel so that I can copy it. The problem is that there are no screw holes to secure the panel. The access panels on a closed car are not the same. There are some clips on the lower edge of the opening, but I am not sure how they would secure the panel. Any photos would be appreciated. Thanks, Grandpa
  8. My car is missing the removable sheet metal panel on the front doors that is removed in order to service the window lift regulator and the door lock. I would like to get a photo of this panel so that I can copy it. The problem is that there are no screw holes to secure the panel. The access panels on a closed car are not the same. There are some clips on the lower edge of the opening, but not sure how they would secure the panel. Any photos would be appreciated. Thanks, Grandpa
  9. Hi 50bomb, I know of a 1950 Buick Roadmaster parts cars with a hood in SoCal if you are interested. Send me a Private e-Mail through the AACA forum. Please keep the car stock, there arn't that many left. Grandpa
  10. Sorry guys, you are correct - Triumph GT6 Grandpa
  11. Grandpa

    6 volt LED

    Hi rusty1951, I tried the LED lights in a 1941 Buick. The 1941 Buick has a reflector as well as a condensing lens (Fresnel lens) over the bulb. The reflector, the Fresnel lens, and the outer red lens are all in excellent condition on the car. The problem is that the LED light is not at the focal point of the reflector and Fresnel lens. The result was a localized "hot spot" on the red lens. I didn't think that it was much of an improvement, so I went back to original bulb. Grandpa
  12. The above Peerless photo, from Peter, has different wheels (look close) and lacks the compartment doors in the left side splash apron. Additionally, the shape of the visor supports are not the same as the mystery car. Also, the fold line in the hood, for the side panels, seems to be slightly higher on the Peerless than on the Cadillac. My vote is for the Cadillac. Grandpa
  13. The 1929 Cadillac had a spherical tail light housing. See the attached image of the car to ID's tail light. Grandpa
  14. The year of 1929 is about right, but the tail light is not a 1929 Cadillac. I would ID the car as a 1929 LaSalle. See the attached not so good image. Grandpa
  15. Grandpa

    6 volt LED

    Hi TexRiv_63, I purchased the following LED lamps from HighSpeed Corp.: Part Number 6N05 32 LEDs, white, negative ground, non-indexed base, 6 Volt. Part Number 6N06 32 LEDs, white, negative ground, indexed base, 6 Volt. The lamp has 18 LEDs facing to the rear. The remaining LEDs are arranged radially in two decks facing to the side. I would suggest only purchasing one lamp as a test, before purchasing a complete set. Grandpa
  16. Grandpa

    6 volt LED

    I purchased 6 Volt LED tail light lamps from the following source: http://www.highspeedmotors.com/Webled.html I fould that the LEDs are a little brighter, but more as a localized "hot spot" under the red tail light lens. The reason for this is that the source of the light is a cluster of LEDs, and thus, don't reflect very well in the tail light reflector. The parabolic reflector is designed for a point source of light (the bulb filament). For now, I have changed back the original 6 Volt bulbs. Additionally, if LED lamps are used in a turn signal application, the thermo flasher may have to be replaced with a 6 Volt sold state flasher unit. Grandpa
  17. Vacuum gauges are typically calibrated in inches on mercury and not psi. Is the gauge marked as "psi"? Grandpa
  18. FYI - I have found a way to disassemble the 1941 Buick radio push buttons: Using a hand pin vise, with a sharp (new) 1/16" drill, I carefully drilled a hole (at the same angle as the button face) in the bottom of the button directly below the plastic window. The hole is less than 1/16" deep (don't drill too far, as you will drill into the clear plastic window). I applied WD-40 on the window to provide some lubrication. After cutting the two small upset plastic ears, that retain the window, I used an old smaller drill to tap out the window. The copper color comes from a small piece of copper. The back side of the copper piece was like new. All that is required is to reverse the copper insert. I plan to sand a little material off the sides of the plastic window so that it can be re-inserted without cracking the fragile button. The small hole can be left as is. The postwar Buick radio buttons are constructed somewhat differently. They use a composite decal on top of the clear plastic window. This button design eliminates the need for the small piece of copper. Grandpa
  19. Another suggestion: Try a 1950-1952 Roadmaster five bladed fan. Grandpa
  20. Hi, During the 1940s, GM offered an accessory flashlight for the Chevrolet. The flashlight is known as a Red Head and was manufactured by the USA Lite Co. The flashlights sold through the GM dealers, have a flat end cap which is marked "Approved GM Accessories". See the attached images. Does anyone know the name of the person that is reproducing the GM end cap? Thanks, Grandpa
  21. Hi Flat_Top, If you are sure that your radiator is clean (no rust deposits), install a Gano in-line filter in the upper radiator hose. If the filter fills with rust particles in less than 100 miles, then it time to clean out the water jacket at the back of the block. The attached image is the Gano filter screen from my Roadmaster straight eight. Grandpa
  22. Questions on the restoration of the 1941 Buick radio buttons: (1) The plastic window slides out from the top and is secured in place by two small upset ears on the knob. Are there any tips on how to slide out the window without damaging the window or the button? (2) The brushed copper background appears to be very thin, perhaps a film applied to the back side of the plastic window. Are there any tips on how to restore the brushed copper background? The original buttons and windows are in good condition, except for the brushed copper backgroud. Thanks, Grandpa
  23. Hi Monk124, 1947 Cadillac. Grandpa
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