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Grandpa

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Everything posted by Grandpa

  1. The attached image is a Doble that was restored by the Harrah Collection. The car could be the same one that was photographed at the factory. Other than the different headlights, the Harrah car looks the same to me. Grandpa
  2. Photograph of a friendly neighborhood automobile repair garage in the mid 1920s. Autos to ID. Grandpa
  3. Photograph of the Doble shop in 1922. Grandpa
  4. Factory photograph, taken at the California factory, of a brand new convertible coupe. Grandpa
  5. After market (auto parts store) replacement hubcap for early 1950s Cadillacs. Not an original Cadillac OEM hubcap. Grandpa
  6. Photo taken in San Diego. Grandpa
  7. There are several problems that can cause a vintage Buick eight to run too warm or over-heat. The primary causes are: (1) Rust deposits in the back of the block, (2) Rust deposits that end-up plugging the radiator, (3) A cooling system by-pass valve that is open. To check on rust deposits: (1) Install a Gano in-line coolant filter in the upper radiator hose. If the filter picks up rust particles in a hundred or so miles, the block and radiator need to be cleaned. (2) Remove the engine block drain plug (located near the starter). If there is no water flow or low water flow out of the drain opening, the block needs to be cleaned. Suggestions: (1) In the short-term, run 100% purified water, with water wetter added. This change will lower the operating temperature a little. (2) Install a 1950-52 Buick Roadmaster five bladed fan. This change will impove low sped cooling. (3) Made sure that the heater valve is 100% closed, as the heater water flow bypasses the radiator. Grandpa
  8. The attached image is an enlargement of the 1939 Oldsmobile body's firewall, which shows the unpainted Fisher Body data plate mounted on the front face of the firewall, just to the left of the car's center (as viewed from the driver's seat). Grandpa
  9. The image shows a 1939 Buick body installation at the GM South Gate Plant (aka, the Tweedy Plant), South Gate, California. Note the unpainted aluminum Fisher Body data plate on the firewall of the 1939 Buick. The car body to be installed behind the Buick is an Oldsmobile. Note the Oldsmobile grill behind the Buick and the light colored Oldsmobile body that is to be lowered next. The unpainted aluminum Fisher Body data plate can be seen on the Oldsmobile body's firewall just to the left of center. Grandpa
  10. I respectfully have some doubts on Dave's post that the Fisher Body data plates were attached before painting (for plates that are stamped with a paint code number). If a forum member has a late 1930s to 1940s GM parts car, please take a look under an unmolested Fisher Body data plate to see if it has body color or primer - Also, please note the paint code that is shown on the data plate. I feel that other administrative procedures could have been used to communicate the painting and trimming of the car to the factory, such as a build sheet. With a build sheet procedure, the data plate could have been attached after painting. Grandpa
  11. A group of mostly new open Packards, gathered as parade cars for the 1927 Charles Lindbergh parade in Los Angeles. In the group are touring cars (5 & 7 passengers)with (and without) rear windshields attached to the back of the front seats, phaetons, and a couple of dual cowl phaetons with sidemounts (on the left). Packard fans may want to add comments on the models shown. Grandpa
  12. Photograph taken in Southern California. The car pictured does not appear to have a left side taillight visible in the image. Grandpa
  13. The image appears to be taken when the body was recently painted (door handle not installed). The hood and transition aluminum cowl are not finished painted. Grandpa
  14. Hi Larry, Convex truck mirrors (and motorcycle mirrors) are made to a different radius of curvature than passenger car convex mirrors, per the federal standard. Your suggest will be my Plan B. Cutting down a large passenger car convex mirror isn't a good option, as some of the warning text would likely end up on the cut down circular mirror. Thanks, Grandpa
  15. Grandpa

    Cars to ID

    Hi nzcarnerd, Blurred close-up. The object on the cross member may be a leather crank handle holder. Grandpa
  16. Photo taken in Southern California. Grandpa
  17. Just an observation: The chassis, front axle, rear end, and springs look heavy duty to me. Perhaps it is a light truck chassis. Grandpa
  18. Hi Robin & 1937hd45, I believe the WW2 scrap drives were more of a propaganda effort to get the population involved in the war effort. The USA had an ample supply of iron ore, aluminum ore, copper ore, etc. The amount of metal collected from the scrap dives represented only a small per-cent of the raw materials needed. Grandpa
  19. keiser31, I need a mirror of 4-7/16 to 4-1/2 inches in diameter. I contacted Moss, as you suggested, and they do not offer a mirror that large and they do not custom cut mirrors to a specific diameter. Thanks for the tip anyway. Grandpa
  20. Hi Robin, Not a single part from this Model J has been found by collectors. It is believed to be totally gone. For a more complete story, see my prior post on this Duesenberg at: http://forums.aaca.org/ubbthreads.php/topics/531052/1933_Duesenberg_on_the_Scale#Post531052 Grandpa
  21. This photo was taken in the Chicago area in 1927. The automobile ID shouldn't be too difficult. Grandpa
  22. Hi Robin, Rare cars lost in lost in WW2 scrap drives: Check out the 1933 Duesenberg Model J on the scrap yard scale. Grandpa
  23. Grandpa

    Cars to ID

    Does this help? Grandpa
  24. The optional right side outside rear view mirror on my 1941 Buick convertible in next to useless because it has a flat mirror. I would like to replace the flat mirror (in the original circular shell) with a convex mirror with the same radius of curvature as that used on modern passenger cars. The federal requirement (Vehicle Safety Standard, Part 571, Subpart for right side outside mirrors for passenger cars is a radius of curvature not less than 889 mm (35 inches) or more than 1651 mm (65 inches). A mid-range radius of 1270 mm (50 inches) would be preferred. I don't want the warning text (which wouldn't fit anyway) or an after market paste-on mirror. I would like the installed convex mirror to look as close to stock in the original shell as is possible. Do any forum members have suggestions as to an individual or business that can cut a passenger car convex mirror to a specified diameter? Thank You, Grandpa
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