D-a-n-i-e-l

I used energy suspention sway bar linkage bushings. Drilled the centers out to .5 inch (put the bushing in a 26mm socket to hold it in place) Then use a bench grinder to etch out the nipples to mach the sway bar hole and ground down to proper length.

Original timing chain? The 3800s had several diffrent covers, all with the same gasket but some major diff for spacing.

So I spent my afternoon making these bushings. I just want to know if anyone has a source for new bushings for the rear sway bar, the ones that connect to the rear struts.

Total time was 3 hours with out interuptions. This has also got me thinking sereously about getting an LSD for it.

Here is the final damage. I already put a new end cover. differential, final drive shaft, and final drive gear. I only needed the diff but did not want to chance anything being broke out of sight. I do not khow what caused it. but seems fine now.

The tranny is the OEM that came behind the series one supercharged and early series two. Did I mention the tranny only had 50k on it. It was a Goodwrench rebuild. It look pretty bad but I think Recian had it pretty close to right. This is only the differential housing. I am going to pull one from the yard today and see it it is repairable without pulling the tranny. Also if it is not too hard of a job I will be ordering the LSD for it in the near future.

Hmmmm. All I did was pull out of the parking spot.

ERROR on odometer, HMMMMMMM..... Sounds like it was driven with one of the proms removed from the BCM.

call around to car audio shops many will have then sitting around from people upgrading. On an other note, if you are just looking for "plug and play" almost any chevy, buick, gmc, caddy, or olds cd player from 90-95 will plug right in to the harness and work. The only mail exception is the head units that have external aplifiers, usaly caddys.

If you use cheaper rebuilt/new alturnaters the rectifier/diodes in many will only put out 13.5 ish volts (check with a good multi meter) My OEM always shows 14.1-14.5 volts. 14.4 is optimum for 12V lead acid batteries/systems. This is why most high end car audio manufactures rate their amps at 14.4 for the max.

First I did not read the last post on this, but here is my two cents. TCC! Torque Converter Clutch! It is a fairly cheap part. but take a while to put in. I have seen two people junk cars due to this. It locks in and then will not release from its position until power is removed. Like turing the key off or to start position.

Jack up the frontend and check for play in the wheels. Sounds more like tierod, loose rack and pinion, or tire balance.

Or... you could just go with the 91 system and be done with the whole teeves all together

Look if you want to call me out that is fine, but make sure you are right before you do. Yes the rear struts are still out there, but good luck finding them when the supply runs out at your supliers. Oreilliy's Carquest, Parts Pluss, and Autozone do not even have a option/listing for them. Rock auto had the set I bought, on manufacture discontinued sale. These are in person and for a 89 I have not check for 90, 91, and 88, but I am fairly sure they are the same. Oh one other thing when Oreilly's called to special order them they were told they are discontinued. Sorry one last thing. Not available at GM.

Just a thought as of now. Yes the 3800 could easily make 300 HP, but there is so much more potential in the LS4. Not to mention most of the LS series upgrades would work on it. Do i dare even think that one of the supercharger kits would work on it.

Just a thought. I think I can do it just need a little extra cash and Reatta (would like a 90-91) that is not show quality.

Just a note: The reatta rear struts have been discontinued by evey sorce (manufacture) I have looked into, and the Cadillac struts are starting down the same path.

bad started solenoid???

OE 15 inch Reatta rims fit on the rear with about half an inch clearance from the calipier. BTW if any one is interested I have 5 OE rims; four with goodyear tires at 80% plus tread, for sale for a very cheap price. The rims are not in great shape but would be a great deal for the tires or just some one that did not want to get road damage to their prestine rims.

Have fun.... I have only done it when the engine was out, but I can tell you that you will want about three feet in extentions. This will allow yo to get to the mouninting bolts from about the engine instead of fighting with limited space in between the fire wall and engine. As for taking it out I would imagine that the driverside would be the easiest due to more room around the tranny.

Way off!!!! Get ECM with engine and trans. Wire in ECM to run trans only. Spen 90 bucks with sinister performance and reprogram original ECM. This way all functions of diagnostic ect. keep working. You will also have to grab the passenger side axle and modify the passenger side tranny mount. I would jus get a Series one SC engine and tranny out of a 94-95 car and go from there. More power/torque and the same issues.

Have you replaced the O2?

Jon, Yes for the Cadillac calipers you must have the Cadillac cables, they us a barrel end that is 90 degrees off set infrom the reatta ones. If you look at the last picture on the right side (zoomed in) you will see what I mean. Barney, the rotors from the 98 park and 96 Cadillac are identical. I mentioned the 98 Park because I knew many people had look at an older thread that used them.

Both. Bigger(see picture 3) and one pump. Did I mention not a chance of a rattle

Sorry here is the link. Cardone 18-4543 - Unloaded Brake Caliper | O'Reilly Auto Parts