Owen_Dyneto

The best pilot shaft is a spare input shaft from the transmission as it's got to be a pretty precise fit into the clutch disc hub and the pilot bearing to work well. Find someone with a spare trans who is willing to loan you one, or if you make up something from wood or metal, it's got to be pretty precise to get the correct alignment.

I guess I have to disagree with the statement of having to heave a sealed system to be efficient. How about all the cars manufactured before pressure systems like my 1934 Eight?

I'd visit a heavy duty truck alignment shop for tips. Alignment on beam axle trucks is still done by bending the axle for camber adjustment, using tapered shim plates between the spring perch and axle for kingpin angle, and bending tie rods where needed. These were the same techniques used on our vintage cars years back, and these shops still do this routinely.

If I read your question right, you can get the trans in w/o the clutch, but not with it. If so, this is just a matter of standard automotive repair technique. You need to use a pilot shaft through the clutch friction disk and into the pilot bearing to center the clutch around the pilot bearing before bolting it up. Then remove the pilot shaft and install the transmission. The best pilot shafts are old input shafts from a spare transmission, though most auto parts stores sell a sort of "one kind fits all" pilot shaft.

Standard's AL5255XP points don't fit? I just picked up a set at the local parts store for a 41 with Autolite ignition.

Thanks for the confirmation of an apparent OEM alloy head on a 385 engine; it's a dull day that you don't learn something new. If it has a casting or part # and casting date on it, I'd appreciate knowing that so I can make a notation in my parts book.

The 120s offered an HC aluminum head but I don't believe the Eight and Super Eight did. Could be wrong but I've never seen one or heard of one, nor is one mentioned in the parts book (none stating it's aluminum, that is).

Well, OK, more than a few. On such an otherwise lovely car, I suppose any at all would be too many. On quick qlance I noted the cylinder head and water jacket distribution plate should be painted (green) as should the carburetor (black), the valve rocker shaft housings shouldn't be painted but natural aluminum. The plated engine trim should be nickel-plate, not chrome. Looks like the oil filler and road draft tubes are plated and should be painted black, etc. Still, it would be welcome in my garage.

A lovely car and some very excellent photographs. A few inaccuracies under the hood.

Had you shut it off, or was it still running? Temperatures of both coolant and engine climb significantly after the engine is shut off.

It would help to know where on your engine you took the readings. You should measure the temperature at several spots across and down the radiator core with the engine running. If the 200-203 readings were taken right after doing a July 4th parade at a crawl on very hot day, it might be acceptable but otherwise not. A 180 degree thermostat should keep the temperature of the coolant at the top of the core at about 180 degrees.

I get those points routinely from my NAPA dealer. Perhaps he doesn't want to be bothered, try another dealer. You can also get Standard points from non-NAPA dealers who sell that brand, I believe the # is CS-16.

Correct.

I'm reasonably certain that's not an original Packard accessory key but an aftermarket item of later years. Better buy is one of the genuine ones (crest-shaped head) for about $10 or $15.

There are a number of ways, I made a small tool resembling the ones usually pictured in manuals for this job. Take a piece of sturdy steel strap, perhaps 1/4 or 3/8 thick. Make a bend and drill a hole so you can mount it to one of the backing plate bolt holes. Bend it again so the you have a right-angle bend about 1 inch away from the end of the axle and parallel to it. Drill and tap this end for a threaded bolt with locknut which will face square to the end of the axle shaft. Before you mount it, use a brass or rawhide mallet and tap the axles in towards the far end of the car. Mount the bracket and run the threaded bolt to within 15 or 20 thousandths of the end of the axle and measure the gap with feeler gauges. Then go to the far side and tap the axles back towards your bracket, measure the gap again, and subtract the two readings; difference is the axle end play.

Not sure about your 733 but if it has a double tapered roller bearing set like 1934, you just attach a slide hammer under the axle nut and just pull the axle out; the seal and bearings and outer race come out with it, and you'll have to use an inside puller for the inner seal. There may be shims behind the inner race, used for adjusting axle shaft end play.

The starting production number for 1934 was 11, so vehicle number 754-187 would have been the 177th produced in that body style on that chassis.

My 1962 AC spark plug reference shows that Packard used two different spark plug sizes during the years 1924 - 1931, both 7/8 NPT and 18mm. Best check the thread size before installing.

Don't know the answer, but you could get a good idea by just checking the PAC roster.

If you go onto their forum and read the "Please Read First" thread, you'll find the explanation.

I've been using Valvoline SAE85W-140 HP gear oil in my 34 differential, transmission, steering gear box, and universal joints for many, many years, at least 30 or more, never a problem or need to service any of those units, and pretty close to Packard's recommendation of SAE90 in the winter and 140 or 160 in the summer. Never use grease in the steering gear box, it "channels" away from the wear surfaces and can leave them naked. If it leaks and you are unwilling to repack the gland at the bottom, going to a 600W or steam oil might be an alternative. I analyzed Bijur oil many years ago, it's reasonably close to SAE50 motor oil though I'm sure SAE 40 would do just as well, perhaps meter a bit faster. Other than garage floor cleanliness I think this might only be a possible issue with regard to the drip plug for the throwout bearing where you want to avoid overoiling. I'm sure many of us have replaced the throwout bearing with a sealed unit and disabled the drip plug to the throwout anyway.

I've also seen several of these in what appeared to be original condition and they were all crinkle painted in brown.

My 2 cents says a 39 Super Eight should be worth less than a 37-38 Super Eight with the same body style; though they have basically the same engine, the 39 Super used the 120 body with a somewhat gussied up interior whereas the 37-38 still used true composite construction senior bodies and a bit more elegant interiors. That's basically the reason it took the 39 Super so long to finally get recognized as a bona fide Full Classic. That's not however to say that it's not a really nice car with good road manners.

Yes, marine engines are still made under the Hispano and Issota Franchini nameplates.

Can't provide an entirely definitive answer as Packard offered several different trunks in each (most?) model year(s), and some years both fabric and metal-covered may have been offered. But as a generalization, 1934 and back (except possibily for the club sedan), trunks were fabric covered with plated corners, straps, etc. much like a steamer trunk. I believe the painted metal trunks are more appropriate to 35 and up.