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Jason, funny you should mention about rotating in reverse. When I tried to motor the generator it spun slowly, upon lifting the adjustable third brush off of the comm, the generator instantly spun faster but in the opposite direction. I tried the same with the working generator and this spun slowly, but upon lifting the brush it just sped up in the same direction. I know what you mean about people tinkering, and then asking experts to help. However before playing with it I took it to an auto electrician who couldn't suss the problem, he just relieved me of a few pounds, hence why I had a go myself. A few years ago I bought a 1932 Oldmsobile that didn't charge, previously the generator had been reconditioned and at the same time had been converted from 6v to 12v. I bought the car with it not working and so asked about for someone to rebuild it her in England. The prices I was quoted were £400 - 600 which is absurd. I had a holiday in the USA booked and so rang a few people with regards to rebuilding it in the USA, I found a guy who said he could do it. I brought it to the USA in my suitcase, sent it to him the day I arrived. He rebuilt it and returned it to me within the 3 weeks I was in Texas, I then brought it back and it has been brilliant ever since. All of this for about a 1/4 of the cost I was quoted in the UK. Here in the UK no one wants to rebuild stuff for a reasonable rate, they either want to rip you off or sell you a new item. You guys in the USA don't know how lucky you are!! Wayne

Just an update, I took the car to an auto electrician, who couldn't sort it. I tried it on the work bench attached to a drill and it doesn't work, I then dug out another similar one I have from my Big 6 car, I tried this on the bench and it worked fine. I then dismantled the generator and also dismantled the similar one I have, I swapped the armatures over and still mine didn't work, but the other one still did, so this showed the armatures to both be fine. I then dismantled them both again and noticed that the field windings were wound the opposite way in one to the other. So I unsoldered the link wire joining the 2 together, I then swapped the 2 field coils around, and added a link wire. The I soldered the brush wires back on. Reassembled the generator and hey presto, it now all works well. I am no electrician and cannot explain why it now works, but it does. If anyone can point out what I have down I would be grateful. Wayne

Terry this video clip was done with the driveshaft removed and the speedo was showing about 25 mph. Also the rod that is missing is the one to the rear brakes, as I was just trying the mechanism before reconnecting everything. Today I drilled another hole about 1/2" nearer to the pivot and the brakes do seem better, also it was low on oil so I topped that up. In reverse the brakes (rear only) are very good and stop almost dead. When going forward at a little over walking pace the brakes are not brilliant but they do stop, it seems the rears lock up and so the car skids. My car does not have a rumble seat, it has a trunk. When going down the road at approx 30mph the brakes are pretty good, there is a very slight delay but when they come on they are very good. I am thinking that I may try re-adjusting the rears so that they work better. Studebaker said that the cars stopped well with rear brakes only, however I am not sure that my car would be great at stopping if it never had the hydraulic setup connected, so I think with a bit of adjustment they will be even better. Wayne

I have uploaded a clip to youtube showing the operating lever working and the pistons coming out. The brakes work, but are not as responsive as I think that they should be, I am wondering if either the oil level has dropped now that I have driven the car and so any air pockets have been removed and also I wonder if maybe the hole I drilled for the operating rod to attach to the pivot, maybe a little bit too far away from the pivot point, so I am going to move the rod in slightly. Wayne

Do you have any Macbeth Evans 9" diameter with the green peak in the glass? Thanks Wayne

Nathan, I too had to read your first post twice before I realised what you were saying!! However I can confirm that the test drive was fine. Today I have fitted everything back together, and although it is 10:30pm here I took the old girl for a test drive. The brakes actually work!!! I think that I have some adjusting to do to the rods as although it states in the book that the rods are non adjustable, I had to make new ones and so the lengths maybe slightly out. When moving at a little over walking pace the rear brakes lock up. When going faster the rear brakes do start to screech as if they are trying to skid slightly, when a fair amount of pressure is applied, however I am not sure if the fronts are coming in soon enough. I think the rod to the rear needs lengthening so that the oil pump mechanism engages sooner than it currently does. I maybe applying too much pressure and therefore making the prop stop turning thus preventing the pump working. It maybe a learning curve to work out the characteristics of the brakes. However I think I am finally on the right track. One annoying thing I did today though, was I broke the pot metal angle drive for the speedo cable, this is made by Stewart. I am not sure how I did it as I don't remember knocking it, however when putting the top clevis pins in the brake rods I noticed it was cracked all the way around. Maybe one of the bolts that hold the drive shaft to the transmission drum hit it when I was doing them up, as they were sticking out. If anyone has one of these drives for sale can you please let me know. I did take a short video clip of the mechanism working so when I find my camera cable I will put it on here. Thanks to everyone for their help Wayne

An update. Yesterday I received the parts back from the machine shop, they took approximately .010 off of the casing, thus reducing the end float by about half. Also they cleaned up the reverse spiral as it was teardrop shaped, and then they sleeved the end of the drive shaft coupling which sits in the reverse spiral, with just a few thou clearance. I have now put these few parts back together and no oil leaks when I run the engine. The beginning of next week I plan on connecting the brake rods etc back together and weather permitting take the car for a drive to see how good/bad the hydraulic assisted brakes are!! will keep you informed. Wayne

These badges are so rare I will be surprised if it doesn't sell at that price!! I too have had one of these badges sat on the shelf in my office for a few years!! Mine has never been fitted to a car, I bought it in case I ever manage to buy a 1928 Commander. There is also a 1929 version which mounts in the centre of the badge on the small bar that goes between the later headlights, If anyone has a reasonably priced 1928 Commander for sale, I maybe interested!! Wayne

I am after a rumble seat lid, or just the hardware for my 1926 Big 6 Studebakerroadster. Does anyone have one for sale or do they have a car they are restoring that I could get the dimensions for the brackets from. I have just found a lid that sold in 2012 on the H.A.M.B which was exactly what I am after, it was sold to someone on here. Trouble is it sold 2 months before I bought my car in 2012!! Any help appreciated Wayne Smith

Still looking Wayne

Richard, I too can see no mention of a felt washer in the standard 6 book I have, but it does mention one in the big 6 book, which is why I thought it may have one, however I am now sure it shouldn't. Also Robert, there is not enough room for an oil slinger between the casing and the gear, however my latest idea is that there is too much end float in the gears and so oil is coming up between the gear and the casing. I took it all apart yesterday and then assembled the gears in the housings on the bench. The gasket paper measures .008" and measuring the gears, the housing etc, there is .024" end float. This seems to be a lot. I have spoken with a friend who says he can skim the castings down to give just a couple of thou clearance once a gasket is applied. I am guessing that with .024" oil can easily pass between the 2 and so is overpowering the reverse spiral. With just .002" the oil that can creep past will be greatly reduced and therefore the spiral will do its job. The other thing I noticed is that the hole in the casting for the transmission flange to pass through has a clearance of .090" (or .045" each side) again this seems to be a lot. If no oil can get past the gears this shouldn't be a problem, however if oil is still a problem after the face has been machined, I will get a little bush made to reduce this hole. Still persevering Wayne

Looking at the big 6 parts book (I don't have one for the standard 6) there is a felt washer behind the transmission flange which the transmission drum bolts to. Does anyone know if there should be the same felt washer on the standard 6. In the big 6 book it is described as "Transmission case rear flange or parking brake bracket felt washer" and is part number 110382, there is also a retainer item number 110381 and a lock wire number 110387 If anyone has a standard 6 parts book to hand, can they check if there is a similar part listed, or even better scan the page in so I can see what I am missing, if anything Thanks Wayne

Terry I did exactly that when fitting it all together, and it still leaked. What I was considering doing was blocking off the little drain hole that I put in red on the pic above, and then seeing if it still leaks, if it does I will know that it isn't leaking from there and so must be coming out of the casting around the shaft, if it does stop I know it is from that little hole. Last night I stripped the whole thing apart to see if there was maybe a blockage in one of the oil ways, stopping oil from flowing in the correct way, but no blockage was found. I was also wondering if the thickness of gasket makes a difference. I am using the thinest gasket material I could find, which is about .005". I do have some that is about .020" thick and so was wondering if that would make a difference. The other thing I was wondering is, when the 2 castings are together with the top bronze pump gear between them the gear can move forward and back a few thous, should this be shimmed behind the gear to stop this? I am now starting to pull my hair out with all of this!!!! Wayne

Today I have stripped it all apart, assuming I would find something obvious, but no. I removed the brake drum and where it goes into the rear casting there is a reverse spiral, this is all clean. At the inner edge of the spiral there is a little trough with a hole going into where the pump gears are located. I assume this is so if there is a little leak any oil will find its way back in. I believe that for some reason oil is being pumped out of this hole and causing my problem. The hole is on the sucking side of the gears so it should draw oil in rather than pump it out. Having studied the diagrams on how it all works I was wondering if the gearbox its self is being pressurised and so pushing oil out, but leaving the filler plug out disproved this theory. Here is a pic showing where the hole is that I think the oil is coming out of. It is the little red dot in the pic Wayne

If I hold the points closed when connected to the dynamo the ammeter on the dash goes up to max. The reading I got from the dynamo of about 3 - 3.5volts was when the cutout was disconnected with a voltmeter on the post of the dynamo and the other end to earth. To test the cut out I disconnected it from the dynamo and then gave it a feed to the dynamo contact which made the points close, so I assume it is working. If I hold the points closed when fully connected the ammeter on the dash goes up to max. When I bought the car the original cutout is in a box of bits maybe my next job is to connect this back up and see what happens. Thanks for the input Wayne

Yesterday I received the new shaft for the control valve. I have this evening fitted it all together and ran the engine with the prop shaft (drive shaft) disconnected. The pistons are going in and out as they should, the only problem is that oil is pouring out from behind the transmission brake drum. When I say pouring it took about 30 seconds to empty the transmission. Looking in the books I can't see an oil seal in this location so I am now assuming that the pressure relief valve has too strong a spring behind it so not lifting and therefore it is forcing the oil out this way. When the transmission had the control valve missing, someone had also removed the pressure relief valve spring, just leaving the ball bearing. Being a 1926 model it doesn't have the pressure valve on the dash, so I am going to play tomorrow with different tension springs and hopefully find something suitable that makes the pistons work without forcing oil everywhere. Wayne

I have just tried altering the position of the third brush and it doesn't seem to alter anything. I also disconnected the lead from the dynamo to the cutout and put a voltmeter on the post, it seems that the dynamo is giving out 3.5volts, which isn't enough to close the points in the cutout. Is there an obvious reason why the dynamo is not kicking out enough voltage? I was going to strip the dynamo again and see if there are any grounded wires, but I would assume that if that was the case, the reading would be 0. Any further help?? Wayne

The armature is shiny, as mentioned it has been reconditioned and hardly used. I did initially think the the brushes weren't seating correctly so bedded them in by wrapping emery paper around the armature, rough side out, and then rotated it to help make the brushes take on the shape of the curve. This never helped I will try this on monday and let you know how I get on. Wayne

I have a 1926 Standard 6 with all Wagner electrical components. The dynamo has been rebuilt and it has a new cutout however the car is not taking a charge. I have tested the cutout and it works correctly. I stripped the dynamo and can't see anything obvious, I bedded in the brushes to see if that would help and also checked that the spring tension is ok, which it seems to be. Is there a way to check the armature etc of the dynamo. I need an idiots guide, with as much detail as possible. I never had it rebuilt, this was done a few years ago by the previous owner, but the car has less than 200 miles on it since. Inside it all looks as new and is very clean. Any help appreciated Wayne

Mike is this still available. Also how did you get on with selling the other Studebaker Stop light? I would be interested in both lights if still available. I will send you a PM with my email so you can let me know the cost of postage to the UK. I can send you the money by paypal if you like Thanks Wayne

How much would postage to the UK be? Also is this a type D, it should be stamped in the top of the bucket thanks Wayne

Terry thanks for the information. Tonight I took the castings to a machinist and he is going to make me a piston for the control valve. I am not 100% sure on the length and so am getting it made too long with the recess for the operating lever grove, I can then reduce the length once fitted to suit how the operating lever works. I will also have to make an operating lever, I will post some pics once completed. I do have some straight 40 grade oil so will use this when reassembled Wayne

Terry I have now taken the rear section off of the transmission and dismantled it. It appears that only the control piston, the pressure relief valve spring and the lever which attaches to the brake rod, are missing, so from the pictures I have I am going to get a machine shop to make me a valve cylinder and the brake rod lever. I have the gears, the pistons etc. I have also removed one of the pistons from underneath and this was very bunged up with sludge and it took quite a bit of back and forth action to finally get it to come out. It smells as though gear oil has been used in the transmission, not engine oil, like it states in the manual sent to me by Richard. Maybe this slowed up the response of the braking system. Or as you say maybe it caused some confusion hence taken off. I once had a 1926 Chrysler with the gas pedal in the middle, I had no problem with this but a friend of mine really struggled to drive it. Once sorted I plan to clean out the transmission and fill back up with engine oil as recommended. As for a gauge, I don't have on on the dash, the only pressure gauge is the engine oil which is 0 - 6lb and has been disconnected, with a modern gauge fitted under the dash. Regards Wayne

Thanks to Richard I now have a copy of the Studebaker Hydraulic 4 wheel brakes brochure for my car. I thought it would be easier to post an explanation on here as to what I have rather than reply individually to the people who have tried to help, but I do thank you all for your input!! I have taken the following pictures showing what I have and then what I should have. The picture with the rods illustrates how mine is now, the blue lines are non-original rods, pivots and linkages, the red lines are rods that have been removed. Originally the rear brakes were mechanically operated via rods from the brake pedal, then as an addition there is a pump in the gearbox(transmission) of the car which when the brake pedal is applied makes 2 pistons eject from the gearbox housing, applying pressure to the brake rods acting on both the front and rear brakes brakes. This added pressure assists the driver by increasing the braking pressure. However on my Studebaker someone at some time in its life has removed the control valve which makes the pistons come out and then made up new rods linking the rear brake rods to the front brakes. In theory this is ok, however the leverages involved are incorrect resulting in the brakes not working properly. The pedal needs to travel further than it has room to travel, in order to make this set up work. Where the control rod enters the gearbox, someone has blanked off the hole with a plug brazed over the hexagon end (see pic) What I need to do is find a control valve, and the lever which operates this from the brake pedal (valve contra operated by brake pedal in illustration). I do wonder why was it changed, is there a problem with how it works which is why it has been disconnected, or did something break? Any help would be appreciated because as of now I haven't been able to drive the car as the brakes don't come up to England's standards, hence it won't pass an MOT (inspection). If anyone has a complete transmission or just the part with the control valve, and oil pump etc attached, I would be interested in buying it Regards Wayne

Try a new distributor cap, it maybe cracked and spraying with silicone spray may temporarily be insulating the crack, but as time goes on it shorts to earth again. Wayne