bifda

I see this post has just popped to the top, but is 3 years old. Did you get sorted for a 1912 touring car? I have one which is in very original condition and with great history. The car was used in 1946 and 1947 on the Glidden tour and there are photos and even a black and white YouTube video of the car from this tour. The car is in running and driving condition and hasn’t been restored, the paintwork is very aged but probably not the original. The engine is the correct 1912 motor, but has had a starter fitted. The upholstery is very worn and could do with some tlc. I am told that the rear end is 1913 but everything else appears correct for 1912. The car has a set of 4 new Blockley tyres and a new top as the old one was rotten. The car is fitted with electric headlights, which are on it in the Glidden tour photo's but it does also come with acetylene headlights and the oil tail and side lamps. No generator. This car was imported in to the UK in the late 1990’s and since being here I am the second owner. Shipping back to the USA wouldn’t be an issue, but I would want the funds before it leaves here. I know quite a few people in the USA that I have had dealing with so could provide details if required, to show im not a scammer. The car is for sale for £20,000, which is about $25,500. I can sssist with shipping and if you want specific photos please ask.

I have a 1929/30 Studebaker GJ commander with the standard 6 engine. This has the water pump shaft running alongside the side of the engine the same as my 1928 dictator. The shaft was very grooved where the pump packing sits and so I had a new shaft made. I have repacked with water pump packing/string, but it constantly leaks after a few journeys. What is the best packing material to use and should I be using any water pump grease as well? My ‘28 dictator I have used regularly over the last 16 years and only once have I nipped up the gland but, but the commander just won’t seal. any advice appreciated wayne

The headlights have been on the car a long time. If you look at the pic from the Glidden tour they were on it then. You can see the large hinge in the pic. There are no markings on the lamps, they do have Ford lenses. regards wayne

What I was meaning is that it still has the accessory front doors, as a lot have been removed to make the car look older. I never said they were optional, just that they were an accessory, a bit like the acetylene lights etc. Thanks for sharing the sales leaflet regards wayne

No there are no external handles. It does have the accessory front doors. Which is a nice feature regards wayne

I am doing so research into a 1912 Model T Ford, I bought last week, here in the UK. It has a plaque on the firewall from the 1947 Glidden tour. I believe the car owned by Col John F Brown is the car I’ve bought. It came with the electric lights, and stil has the shock absorbers that are in the pic. Etc. The car is very original and was imported into the UK in 1997. wayne smith

Are the inlet and exhaust manifolds in good condition and available? If so do you have a price inc shipping to Texas? thanks

For Sale are a pair of Stutz axle shafts and hubs for wire wheels. Believed to be 1928/29 These items are in used condition but could be handy to have spare. only downside is they are located in England so postage will be high.

Do you still have the 31 bird mascot? How much would you want for it? thanks wayne

Robert I believe that was me that posted about the big 6 fan. A friend of mine is after one. Do you have a pic of the opposite side of yours. His car is a 1928 GB commander. Attached is a photo of his fan. thanks wayne

did you receive my rely by PM? thanks Wayne

I’m looking for Fan and the hub it fastens to, for a 1928 big 6 engine. This is the one which mounts on the distributor drive housing. Thanks I Peter we now have the distributor inc the mounting tub. Now we are looking for the fan. any help apprecaied Thanks wayne

Which model brakes light do you require? I have one I can dig out. wayne

peter yes I do. I will send you a personal message now. thanks wayne

Looking to buy a distributor tube and fan for a 1928 big 6, would consider the whole assembly including distrbutor. A fan blade fatigue cracked at the rivets and broke sending the blade back resulting in it breaking the cast tube. See red arrow. it has also damaged the radiator but that can be recored. The car is in the UK so I will need items shipping here. Any help appreciated. Wayne

I gave £150 ($180) for it and would hope to get my money back. I can ship worldwide. i am in England. wayne

I bought this radiator shell as a spare when I had my 1926 roadster. it is in very good condition and ready to be replated. i can ship it worldwide, but would need to check on prices. i am in the UK. i also have a rear fender for a 1926 Studebaker. It is new old stock and never fitted to a car.

What condition are the wood wheels? Do you have 5 good ones? How much inc shipping to Texas? thanks

What model Studebaker is this for? My 1928 Dictator only has 4 openings in the dash panel. See pic. I have a spare four hole panel I would sell. it is just the panel, no gauges as I’m keeping the gauges as I have two cars. whereabouts are you? I’m in England. regards wayne

I’m looking for a source for the aluminium drive coupling plus the rubber insert, used on the 1928 big 6 engine. the rubber had disintegrated and broke the aluminium coupling. the pic of the good coupling is from another engine . any leads appreciated Wayne

Is the 1937 windscreen the same as other years? Wayne

Thanks everyone I have now bought the gear from Nyal. All the best Wayne

Does anyone know a source for the drive gear located on the end of the distributor shaft? This is for a 1928 big 6 commander fitted with a Delhi 636x distributor. The one we have had chewed the teeth and now needs replacing. I’ve heard there are reproductions made, but not sure who by. Any help appreciated. kind regards Wayne Smith

I’ve got a similar issue with one of mine. I adjusted the front brakes and now they come on but won’t come off unless I physically push the operating lever back. I stripped them and can only assume that the square operating cam is going over centre. Ive sent my shoes off to be relined so I’m hoping this will cure it as more meat on the lining should mean that the cam won’t need to operate as much.