joe_padavano

The surging at mid-range speeds under lightly loaded throttle is often a sign of an igintion problem. I had a similar problem with our 93 Allante (the Northstar and the Intrigue's "shortstar" V6 are related) and the problem turned out to be the coil pack.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">ok, not kinda of illegal, totally illegal. its illegal to remove a vin tag and put it on another car. </div></div> Once again, NO, IT IS NOT ILLEGAL under Federal Law to remove and alter a VIN tag. It is only illegal if there is intent to commit fraud. Read the law for yourself under subsection 18 U.S.Code section 511 that you can find here: http://law.onecle.com/uscode/18/511.html The US Dept of Justice goes on to say: "To prove a violation of Section 511, it must be established that: (1) the defendant knowingly removed, obliterated, tampered with, or altered an identification number on a road motor vehicle (or component); (2) the identification number was one required by the United States Department of Transportation (DOT); and (3) such conduct was not done lawfully (e.g., defendant knew the vehicle was stolen and was trying to conceal its identity)." That reference is available here: http://www.usdoj.gov/usao/eousa/foia_reading_room/usam/title9/crm01375.htm Reasonable people can argue as to whether the original request in this thread constitutes a legal VIN replacement or not, but the general statement that doing so is illegal is NOT correct.

I like to run straight manifold vac but it depends on the advance canister, the initial timing, and the quality of fuel. You can really make either work.

The electric choke should be run to a switched +12V circuit, but you should put an oil pressure switch between the source and the choke. These switches close with oil pressure when the engine is running, so if you leave the key on without the engine running won't prematurely heat the coil and open the choke.

You can find pictures of each year H/O at hurstolds.com. There were H/Os built in 68, 69, and 72; none in 70 or 71. All 68s were silver with black stripes. 69s and 72s were all white with gold stripes. 69s got the unique bolt-on "mailbox" twin hood scoops. 72s used the factory style fiberglass O.A.I. hood. Also, a real H/O will have H/O emblems on the outside (which may have been removed) and a H/O decal on the glove box door. All got dual gate shifters as well.

With the increased use of plastic parts in automobiles, the major paint suppliers have significantly increased the quality and variety of their plastic paints. Unfortunately, many people still use the cheesy interior paints sold at Pep Boys and similar stores. As noted above, parts need to be absolutely clean prior to painting. More importantly, each type of plastic (vinyl, PVC, ABS, etc) requires a specific type of paint and preparation. Also, most types of plastic require a specific etching coat prior to any paint application. Dupont, for example, has an on-line data book available that describes their paint products and the appropriate uses and application processes. When done correctly, the paint will not peel.

It is unlikely that you'll find a new one, however the steering column on just about every GM car made from 1969 through at least the mid-1980s uses exactly the same part. Even the trucks use this design. Go to any wrecking yard and you'll find dozens. I think the tilt and tilt/travel colums may use a different part than the non-tilt columns, but they are still extremely common.

The O.A.I. hood stripes could have been any of the avaible stripe colors that year. I'm pretty sure there was white, black, red, blue, and gold. I'm not sure about silver and yellow. There were recommendations as to which stripe colors were suggested with which paint colors, but those were only recommendations. I've seen some, ah, ORIGINAL color combinations...

Black

You need to unbolt the fender and gently move it outward. There's no other way. I'm in the same boat with my 86.

Just to close this thread out, I took a look at my J88 that's currently parked out by the shed, several projects down in the queue. The frame mounts are two tabs that extend rearward from the crossmember. The rubber motor mounts look amazingly like the 65-70 full size mounts. These are the ones that have a single threaded stud sticking out from the frame side of the rubber mount. The J88 mounts sit directly on the two tabs on the frame and the studs extend through the holes. They are retained with an oversize washer and nut. I don't know if the 65-70 mounts are identical, but I bet they would work.

390327 is the casting number for the 4bbl intake used on the 330. If it's an original engine then it would be a 330. Go to the FAQ at 442.com for all the casting numbers you'd ever want.

Unfortunately, no.

Here's his website: http://www.distributortester.com/index.asp

Fusick sells the correct red air cleaner paint in aerosol cans. That's probably your best bet.

The 200-4R is almost exactly the same length as the Junkaway... er, Jetaway, but the trans mount is in the TH400 location. Since the TH400 was not offered on your 65, you'll need to move the crossmember back. Unlike the open section hardtop frames, where you would simply need to drill new holes for the crossmember, the boxed frames on the convertibles use welded-on tabs to mount the crossmember and you'll need to cut them off (or make new ones) and weld them on in the TH400 crossmember location. Of course you plan to have the 200-4R beefed to handle your big block, right? When properly built the trans will survive, but I broke a stocker behind my 307. You'll also need the throttle valve cable and bracket to mount to the carb and some way to lock up the torque converter. There are aftermarket converter control systems available. The TV cable acts as a sort of mechanical throttle position sensor and combines the kickdown and the vacuum modulator functions. I'd also suggest a good aux trans cooler. If you plan to use the stock shifter you'll only be able to get into OD and Drive. Otherwise you'll need an aftermarket unit. Good luck.

A 70 Olds Cutlass with a 350 engine would have come with a TH350 trans. That trans uses a cable kickdown, not an electric switch. The TH400 used the switch, but that trans only came with the 455 motor that year. Any 68-72 GM A-body car (Cutlass, Chevelle, Tempest, Skylark, El Camino, and derivatives) as well as the 70-72 Monte Carlo and the 69-72 Grand Prix all used the same kickdown switch when fitted with the TH400. The switch mounts on the accelerator pedal arm.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">They don't make the Toyota Echo any more, </div></div> Actually, the old Echo WAS badged as the Yaris everywhere else in the world. I saw a lot of them in France. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">According to fueleconomy.gov a Yaris emits. 5.1 tons/year of greenhouse gas emissions, consuming 9.5 barrels or oil per year. The <span style="font-style: italic">much larger</span> Prius emits 3.4 tons, consuming 6.2 barrels.</div></div> "Much larger"? Look, I'm not bashing hybrids, I'm bashing DC area hypocrites. My point is that the ONLY time these hybrids get driven is in the HOV lanes with one person in each car. Any time these people are driving anywhere else, it's in the monster SUV. Despite what they say, the real reason they bought the hybrid was for the HOV exemption, period. And if you read my previous post, my comparison between the Echo/Yaris and the Prius was not on the combined EPA cycle but at 55 mph in the HOV lane. At that point both are powered by internal combustion engines only. I don't doubt that the hybrid is better on the combined cycle, but the cars don't get used that way around here. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">As for "doing the math" when owning multiple vehicles, that's entirely the point. Presumably if someone owns a truck and a Prius they'll be using each appropriately.</div></div> And as I noted above, I agree with you completely. The problem is that the hybrid buyers here don't use them "appropriately", they use them for convenience to circumvent the rules. Soccer mom driving the SUV by herself on the weekend while the Prius sits in the driveway isn't helping the environment.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Joe are you trying to tell us that the people in the DC area don't have enough sense to buy the car because it will save on emissions of green house gases?! I though the people in that area of the country were more up on current news. Come on give them more credit then that.</div></div> Last Thursday the LEADOFF story on the 11:00 news, complete with an on-site live report, was the astounding news that it WAS NOT snowing in DC. Despite that, several local school jurisdictions had already announced a 2 hour delay for the following morning (when it still wasn't snowing - hold the presses). What was that again about common sense in the DC metro area? As for saving on emissions and reducing fuel useage, well at 55 mph in the HOV lane these hybrids are getting the same fuel economy and emitting the same amounts of pollution as non-hybrid cars like the Toyota Echo. Why don't these non-hybrids get the same HOV exemption deal? I'm not saying that reducing fuel use or emissions isn't a good thing. Heck, my kid will be breathing this air long after I'm gone. I just want to point out that everyone I see with a hybrid in the driveway also has an H2 or Suburban that they use all the time except when commuting into DC. You do the math.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">According to this weeks Autoweek, Toyota is now offering incentives to sell the Pruis, 1.9% financing. </div></div> I don't suppose it has anything to do with phasing out of the tax credits? Even worse, here in the DC metro area the local governments are phasing out the HOV exemption for hybrids. Since that's the only reason anyone around here buys one, expect the sales to really drop.

At the risk of taking this tread off-topic, I have to admit that I feel the 60s and 70s muscle cars are meant to be raced. Frankly, I think that's better than letting a chalk-mark-and-paint-dab restoration languish in a garage only to be trailered to the annual show. At least the guy is starting with a six cylinder car, not a GSX. The way I look at it, I think keeping the car functional and occasionally running it on the strip (as God and GM intended) is a better "preservation" than seeing it destroyed in a Progressive Insurance Company ad (for those who haven't seen it, Progressive crushes a 71 Skylark 2dr with a "meteor" for a TV commercial).

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">This is an antique car forum. Apparently you wandered in here by mistake? Now if you would like to restore the Buick I'm sure folks here can be of great help. Seems a shame to tear up a nice original car. </div></div> Wow, way to encourage a newbie. Last time I checked, 1971 was over 25 years ago, making this car eligable for antique plates in any state. Also, this is called the "General Forum". As for the rear axle question, unless you plan to run slicks, the tires will break loose before a properly built 10 bolt will break. If you do go with a 12 bolt, be wary of the Type O axle. These were unique to 67-70 Oldsmobiles and have a 12 bolt cover but only an 8.5" 10 bolt ring gear. Many vendors advertise these axles as "12 bolt" and charge accordingly.

I run BFG 255/60-15s on all four corners of my 69 H/O, and other than an occasional mild rub at full lock going over a bump (like entering a driveway, for example) there's no problem with fitment. The 255/60s really fill the wheel wells and look great in my opinion.

You'll need the frame and motor mounts for the 307 in addition to the accessory brackets (which are all different). The frame and motor mounts from any 79-88 G-body with an Olds motor or any 77-90 B-body with an Olds motor will work. Here in Northern VA, the wrecking yards are full of B-body wagons with the Olds 307 and 200-4R OD trans combination. The 200-4R was a common trans in the G-body cars, so if your current crossmember won't work, a junkyard part will be easy to find. A couple of other things to watch out for: The 307 originally came with a computer controlled carb and distributor. You'll either need to rewire your car and incorporate the ECM or you'll need to install a non-feedback carb and conventional distributor. If the distributor currently on the 307 does not have a vacuum advance canister, it won't work without the computer. Your rear axle should be the wimpy 7.5" unit that originally came into the world under the Vega. This same axle was standard equipment under all G-body cars with 307s except for the 84-87 Hurst/Olds and 442s, which got the 8.5" axle. Either learn to live with your 7.5" axle or expect to pay big bucks for the rare 8.5" unit or an aftermarket axle. The 7.5 will live if you don't plan to regularly drag race the car. If your 307 has 7A heads with the tiny exhaust ports, be aware that it uses special exhaust gaskets different from those used on every other Olds V8. Regular Olds exhaust gaskets won't seal and will leak. Don't ask me how I know this.... With the right parts, this is a drop-in. Good luck.

First, all Olds V8s (big and small block) have their motor mount bolt locations in the same place. The only external difference between the big and small blocks is the deck height, which does not effect the motor mounts. All 1964-1969 small block cars and all 1965-1968 big block cars used the exact same rubber motor mounts and metal frame mounts. The factory parts book calls out the same part number. This means that if you simply keep your existing 330 frame and motor mounts and bolt them to the 455, this motor will drop in. The crank centerline will be in the correct location. There are vendors selling incorrectly labled 455 motor mounts. Despite the fact that the frame and block is the same for 68 and 69, Olds changed the mounts to incorporate a safety feature that prevents the mount from separating if the rubber breaks. The change required the frame mounts to be different in addition to the rubber motor mounts. So long as you use the motor and frame mounts as a matched set, either design will work. Now, keep in mind that the 455 IS about 1" taller than the 330, so the valve covers and intake will sit higher in the engine compartment, even with the correct motor mounts. That's how the 66 400 was mounted, which is externally identical to the 455. This question comes up about once a month on 442.com. Search through the FAQ on that site and you'll get additional information.