joe_padavano

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I am looking for some front fender patch apnels for my 1972 cutlass. Year one has them but on a scale of 1 to 5 they rate them a 4. I was wondering if there is a better substitute from another supplier or has anybody used the ones from Year one? </div></div> I have not used the ones from Year One, but there are only one or two manufacturers of these patch panels. All the vendors get them from the same sources. They are all stamped in China and the fit and finish stinks. Unfortunately, it's the best you can get. I'd shop around and get the best price. Try one of these vendors: http://www.showcars-bodyparts.com/cutlass.html http://www.billionsandtrillionsinc.com/olds.asp http://www.rustrepair.com/ http://store.shermanparts.com/cgi-bin/sherman/mgflist.htm http://www.autobodyspecialt.com/

Any 68-72 GM A-body with A/C will work.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If you haven't already done so, replace all of the brake fluid from the master cylinder to the wheels. </div></div> This may be good advice, but it won't solve your brake idiot light problem. The slow flow from the back brakes is indicative that the differential pressure valve spool is likely stuck in the rear position. The first troubleshooting thing is to disconnect the wire going to the proportioning valve. If the light goes out, the spool valve is your problem. If not, you have an electrical problem. Next, try just cracking one of the front bleeder screws a little and have a helper press hard on the brake pedal. This should dislodge the spool valve. If not, you should probably replace the proportioning valve.

TCS is transmission controlled spark, an early emissions control device. The intent was to prevent vacuum advance in certain gears (hence the "transmission controlled") to reduce NOX emissions. The looping hose indicates that the unit is already bypassed, so disconnect the electrical connector and drive.

There's one on ebay right now...

Steve, Same answer as on 442.com. As far as the flywheel is concerned, the crank flange bolt pattern is different. As for other differences, the 65-67 400 uses a 4.00" bore and a 3.98" stroke on a forged crank. The 68-69 400 uses a 3.89" bore and a 4.125" stroke on a cast crank. The reason for the two very different motors with the same displacement starts with GM's corporate limit of 400 cu in on the A-body cars. Olds wanted to save cost by reusing the expensive crank forging from the 425. The existing 3.98" stroke dictated the bore. Yes, the early 400 and 425 cranks are the same. In 68, Olds increased the stroke of the 425 to make the 455. Again, Olds reused the (now longer stroke) crank on the 400, which required the smaller bore to stay under the 400 cu in limit.

The G-body Monte uses a 7.5" ring gear. Your H/O uses an 8.5" ring gear. Parts are not interchangeable. You can get a new posi unit from Drive Train Specialists (among many, many others): http://www.drivetrainspecialists.com/categories/gm/

I'm sorry if my response was too strong, but this is a technical forum and your post looks like spam for a commercial organization that frankly had no relationship to the original thread. There are plenty of opportunities on this site for commercial ads.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Larry; The chasis for 68 through 72 "A" bodies are all the same. The only bushings I believe are the grommets that support the anti-sway bar... </div></div> Actually, "bushings" typically refers to the rubber bushings at the inboard end of the upper and lower control arms. These deteriorate over time, leading to squeaking and loose handling. You'll need to remove the control arms to replace the bushings and ball joints, which requires removing the front springs. There's a lot of stored energy in the springs, so use a quality spring compressor. Bushing replacement requires a press or at least some special tools. Get a factory service manual to fully understand the process if you plan to do it yourself. One trick on reassembly is to be sure that the weight of the car is on the suspension before torquing the bolts that go through these bushings. That locks the rubber in at a specific control arm orientation. If you torque the bolts with the car on jackstands, the control arms will be locked in at the "drooped" position, causing the front end to sit too high when you're done.

Why, are you watching the one on ebay right now also? ;-) It means it's a real 72 H/O. That was the option code for the H/O package that year.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Mike, Can not answer your questions on the posi-rear, but want you to know that American Midwest Chrome is available to chrome polish and plate your parts in need. Please remember us for all your chroming needs... </div></div> Well, after a B.S. stunt like that, I know who I WON'T be using for all my chroming needs...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Gentlmen: Years ago I had a similar priblem on my 69 Cutlass. After money spent and much vexing thought, I had to replace the little 90 degree check valve when it fell apart. All the problem went away. I since learned to start with the little things first. This is the plastic fitting on the power booster that is vacume fed from the engine. I hope this helps, Mike </div></div> Starting with the simple things is always a good plan for diagnosing a problem, but in this case the plastic check valve on the booster won't cause the "BRAKE" light on the dash to come on. Only a hydraulic problem (or a sticking e-brake pedal) will cause that. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Interesting as I have a 73 Toro (disc in front, drum in back) and similar problems. Brakes don't work but it happens after I have been driving a while (20 minutes or longer) and my brakes fade away. Kind of like the rear only is working. (Good thing the 455 engine is there as I down shift quickly to slow down!) I changed the booster and master cylinder and pedal bleed the brakes. Now the light is on and the problems is the same. I susepcted the proportional valve but wanted to find out more about it. I believe this year the prop valve and distribution are in the same housing. I plan on bleeding them again this weekend but am interested in the button on the prop valve. You seem to have a good knowledge on these any suggestions? </div></div> Yes, your 73 will have the combo valve that incorporates the proportioning valve, the residual pressure valve, and the differential pressure switch all into one housing. If you pedal bled the brakes and the light stays on, your differential pressure switch spool is offset to one side in the housing. If sludge builds up in the housing this can cause the spool to stick, which keeps the light on and can also upset the flow of hydraulic fluid. Depending on which way the spool is stuck, cracking the bleeder screws on the other end of the system can help recenter the spool. Since your rear brakes seem to work, try bleeding the fronts to get the spool recentered. Yes, you do need to keep the button depressed during bleeding. This actually disables the residual pressure valve during bleeding.

The 72 H/O never had T-tops. I think you mean a 75 H/O.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Looked again but still didn't see it. I thought I cleaned the engine good, but I sure missed that area. This weekend, if I get a change I'll pull off the alternator and brackets and look again. Any idea why the service manual doesn't mention that location for ID numbers? Thanks, John</div></div> I can't speak to the 75 FSM, but my 68, 69, 70, and 71 manuals all talk about the VIN derivative locations in Section 0. It's usually on the page after the one that talks about the VIN tag and body data plate.

First, I would avoid Midas for brake work. Not to bash vendors in this forum, but I've personally witnessed Midas employees doing things like using a vice grip pliers to squeeze a brake hose while changing a caliper. I'm very hesitant to take an old car to a repair chain in general, since these places are mainly parts replacers and really don't spend any time trying to diagnose a problem (witness the speed at which they declared a brand new master cylinder "bad"). Their goal is to get cars in and out as quickly as possible. Next, if you're not doing the work yourself, have a trusted shop check everything in the brake system. A car that old will typically have deteriorated brake hoses. These can fail internally, with the rubber collapsing and acting like a one-way valve. This will prevent proper bleeding and brake function. Also, inspect all the hard lines for rust or other damage. Since you replaced a caliper, I assume this is a disc brake car. Your car has drums in the back, not calipers, by the way. A 69 with factory discs will have a cylindrical proportioning valve below the master cylinder. This can go bad but even if it does, it won't make the brake pedal go to the floor. Also, the proportioning valve has a button that must be depressed when bleeding the brakes. Next is the distribution block on the frame. This device has a sliding spool valve inside it that triggers the BRAKE light on the dash if you lose pressure in the system. This valve can get out of place if brakes are not bled properly and can cause a problem if it does. Finally, find a shop that uses a pressure bleeder. This will absolutely remove all air from the lines if done properly. On a car this old, consider a wholesale replacement of calipers, rear wheel cylinders, and hoses. These parts are not very expensive and do wear out.

Wow, Dave. You used "Ford" and "Lucas" in the same sentence. No wonder you had problems... <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">... The '75 Olds shop manual says all V8 engines except the Omega 350 are identified by a code tape (engine code letters, ie WQ and production date, mauual uses 123) installed directly above the engine unit number which is stamped on the engine fill tube. I did just find the stamped number (when I cleaned the engine I missed it.) It's 7 digits and the VIN ends with 6 numbers. They don't even remotely match. Do you know for sure if that number is supposed to match the VIN? Thanks, John Milford, MI </div></div> John, Go back and read my two posts. The stamped number is nine characters long. Sometimes the stamping is faint or rusty and hard to read, particularly with the motor still in the car. The first digit will be a 3 for Oldsmobile division. The last eight will match the last eight of the VIN. If you have a 75 Factory Service Manual, this is described in the front section.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">That information is mostly correct, however the only numbers on the block will match the sequential numbers (last six) of the VIN. There are no other VINs on the block pad. ... </div></div> I'm sorry if I wasn't clear, but that info is all correct. When I said "if any of these don't match...", I meant any of the nine characters of the VIN derivative. Just to be completely clear, there is a single VIN-derivative stamped on the block containing nine characters. ALL NINE characters of this VIN-derivative (not just the last six) need to match corresponding characters of the car's VIN for it to be the original engine. The first character of the VIN-derivative must match the first character of the VIN and the last EIGHT characters of the VIN-derivative must match the last EIGHT of the VIN. If any of the characters is off, it's not the original engine.

Hi and welcome. The engine should not lean. This is likely a sign of a broken motor mount, which can lead to a jammed throttle if it gets worse. An easy way to check this is to set the parking brake, put the trans in drive and slowly depress the throttle (while firmly pressing the brake with your left foot). Have a helper watch the engine (while standing safely to the side of the car). Repeat with the trans in reverse. The engine will move a little when you rev it, but if it moves a lot, one or both motor mounts are broken.

First, the oil filler tags must have fallen off as the car was driven off the dealer's lot, because I've never seen an original one. More importantly, since the tag and oil fill tube are easily changed, that's not your best verification source. All 68-up Olds motors have a VIN-derivative stamped into the block. There's a machined pad on the driver's side of the block at the front. Look just below and forward of the number 1 exhaust port. The pad is usually caked with crud and partly obscured by the accessory brackets. Stamped on the pad is a nine character VIN-derivative number. The first character will always be the number 3 for Oldsmobile Division. The second character will be the year of manufacture (should be a 5 for your 1975 Delta). The third character will be a letter or number designating the manufacturing plant (M for Lansing, X for Kansas City, etc). This should match the seventh character of the car's VIN. The last six characters should match the last six digits of the car's VIN. If any of these do not match, it's not the original engine.

If your question is "will these work with the existing wiring in my older car?", I've run them in a number of vehicles originally equipped with sealed beams with no problems.

Olds used a small letter (such as the "A" on the CA heads) to designate a small running design change to an existing casting. I can't say that I've seen CA heads, but I've seen DA heads. Again, nothing special.

What was the thing that required "customization" to clear? If it's the brake combination valve on the driver's side frame, that is supposed to be relocated when headers are installed for exactly this reason. Did your installer fail to read the instructions, or simply take the easy way out? I think a refund and new headers are in order.

Which body style and which windows?

The 215 Olds was the same basic motor as the 215 Buick, but with different heads. Many of the other parts are interchangeable. Olds offered this motor with a turbocharger in 62-63 as the Jetfire. Check out this thread: http://forums.aaca.org/showflat.php?Cat=...ge=0#Post448197