Steve Braverman

Merriam-Webster defines classic as: serving as a standard of excellence : of recognized value; historically memorable. No mention of the CCCA in there.

Did you like it? Will the AACA judges like it?

It says very clearly in both the Eastwood and Caswell catalogs that you must use an oven that is exclusively used for powder coating. I have a used range that I'm setting up in my garage. They can usually be found for free if you look hard enough. I also understand Restorer32's frustration with his experience, but that sounds more like operator error than a fault with the product. In fact, it makes the product sound pretty good! My original question was whether anyone had any experience with the home powder coating setups that I mentioned.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: R W Burgess</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Explain this to me West, never heard of it! W. </div></div> Wayne, the Brush's axle and the Franklin's frame are both made of dead trees.

I want to do some powder coating at home. Both Caswell Plating and Eastwood both offer home powder coating setups for about $100. Any thoughts or experiences with either kit?

I'm finally getting started on the assembly of my 1933 Franklin Olympic's chassis. I had the frame painted by the local body shop in gloss black enamel, and it looks good. Now I want to paint all the other chassis parts (springs, axles, etc.). Has anyone used Eastwoods's gloss chassis black? It makes promising claims. I would be using a gun, not an aerosol. Any opinions?

Ask Lebaron Bonney. http://www.lebaronbonney.com/

Well, you were all right! I got a flat with my Hi-Runs today. Of course the big nail through the tread might have had something to do with it.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: West Peterson</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Also, still looking for someone that can weld the axle. </div></div> Let me know when you find someone to weld that axle. I have a Franklin that needs its frame rails welded.

The term "classic" as defined by the CCCA should have absolutely no bearing on a car's value. I own two Franklins, one is a "classic," and one is not. The "classic" is worth about a quarter of what the non-classic is worth, and they are both probably worth less than many Fords of the same era. So, to answer your question, your car is not a "classic," and never will be in the eyes of the CCCA. If you would like, I will take this non-classic off your hands for you.

It's a rim spreader for changing tires on split rims.

Maybe this is one of the replicas built for the movie? I've seen thing misrepresented much worse on eBay.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Bob Kinker</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The Tucker was rear engined. It was a Lycoming Helocopter engine adapted for use in the Tucker. </div></div> Actually it was a modified Franklin helicopter engine.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: PFitz</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Steve, What I don't like about it is if that main fuse blows, it by-passes through a resister wire that can still allow enough current flow to cause a fire. Don't know what they were thinking when they designed that.</div></div> Now I'm baffled. It seems that the fuse has been missing since I've owned the car. Apparently I have been running everything through the resistor until the shorts got bad enough to melt it. What a weird design. What's the point of the fuse, if everything will work without it? I see what you mean. The car needs to be re-designed to be electrically sound. The local parts store does not have the fuse for this application either. It's a larger than usual fuse. I tried hooking a jumper lead up to see if everything works. They do, but the amperes gauge pegs, so something is wrong. I'm going to load the car onto the trailer and bring my test light and multi-meter to the Trek. (I decided to trailer after I saw the weather forecast. Scattered showers and 90 degrees.) I always prefer to drive the car, but sometimes I guess it's smarter to use the equipment I have to make life easier and safer. When I put the carburetor back on (Removing it makes the light switch easier to get to.) I noticed the fuel line leaking. Bruce Lehr soldered it back together for me as I'm a lousy plumber, but when I got it back home and installed it, one of the brass nuts broke! Maybe the heat work-hardened it? I swear I think the spirits of Doman and Marks are trying to tell me to stay home.

Does anyone know of a source for the fuel line fittings used in 1932? They are soldered on. I just broke one, and tomorrow I leave for the Trek. I'm going to have to rig something using hardware store pieces for now.

I have a pair of these exact same mirrors on my 1932 Plymouth PA sedan. They were on the car when my father bought it in 1961, and they were on it when his friend bought it in 1957 from the local Dodge dealer that took it in as a trade from the original owner. They're just aftermarket accessories, but I like them. Mine have leather straps holding them on. Useless for seeing anything, but they look nice.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ZondaC12</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I know here in NY if the car is 25 years old or older there is NO emissions system inspection whatsoever, since it's considered an antique.</div></div> It may seem that there is no emission inspection, but I don't think that's true. I'm fairly sure that part of the NYS inspection for every vehicle is a visual inspection of the emission system. It should fail if any emission device has been removed or disabled, especially catalytic converters or smog pumps. I once had a BMW 325e, and I didn't realize it at the time I bought it that the previous owner had removed the cat. My eyes would burn if I drove with the windows open. However, I lived in Ulster county at the time, and there was no emission inspection, and nobody ever looked under the car. When I returned to Long Island, or the New York Metro Area, I installed a cat in order to pass the emission inspection. No more burning eyes, and the car ran better. I miss that car.

Can you post a picture? Where are you located?

Technical writer. I currently write maintenance and repair manuals, as well as illustrated parts catalogs for the transit industry (locomotives and rail road cars). I'm finishing my MA in education this year, and hope to be a technology teacher (shop teacher) when I grow up.

Ok, mlander, your explanation makes sense, but only explains why the plugs were made smaller. I still don't understand why they used a metric size back when most Americans had no idea what a millimeter even was.

This strange and beautiful creature is an A-400. Rarely seen, but any antique car nut worth his or her salt knows one when they see one.

I hear that naugahyde is very resistant to moths, and cleans up well

The silver plating is actually pretty good, but it's cloudy. Is Nevr-Dull a bad idea?

What's good for polishing reflectors?

I also insist on a battery disconnect switch. (I've also heard stories of Startix-equipped cars creeping away in the night.) I've got everything back together except for the headlights themselves. I'll try to get them rewired today. I'm leaving for the Trek on Saturday morning with my wife and daughter in the car. Should be an interesting ride.