Steve Braverman

Try Rare Parts in Ca. http://www.rareparts.com/

Yes the oil is shared between the engine and transmission.You will notice that the oil pan spans both. The model T is very easy to keep running. There are a lot of books on the T. You can also contact Bob Lang if you need any parts. http://www.modeltford.com/ My grandfather gave me a model T when I was 10 years old, and I have never recovered. I'll have to get another some day.

Do you still need this? I have a complete steering column.

I hear there's a nice one available in Tulsa.

Arthur Gould should have kits and complete pumps. http://arthurgouldrebuilders.com/

Black with a silver head.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: IndianaCarGuy</div><div class="ubbcode-body">It will probably run you $15,000 to restore it right and $2,000 a year to keep it that way,.... </div></div> Restoring a Sears should not be an expensive project. There isn't much to them. As for $2,000 a year to keep it restored, that is ridiculous. My dad has owned his Sears for 40 years, and I'm pretty sure he doesn't have $80k invested in it. The Sears is a very easy car to own. It's easy to maintain, and cheap to keep. If it has the later engine, it will also be very reliable. They only built 3500 cars, and there has to be over 1000 surviving. That says something. Attached is a picture of my dad and his Sears.

Or does it look like this one?

Tom, Does your Sears engine look like this one?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: AVS619</div><div class="ubbcode-body">It is not a Sears as I have a 1909 Sears Model H and this engine looks nothing like the one in the Sears.</div></div> You are right. It is not a Sears. Remember though that there were two totally different engines for the Sears. The early engine had radial fins on the head and two cams, just like this engine. The other distinctive and strange feature of the early Sears engine was that the cylinders were not offset and the rods were bent to meet the crank journals.

Wow, that is the most rusted thing I have ever seen. A person would have to be nuts to try to restore this hulk. Maybe they can recycle it into something useful, like a Hyundai or a lawnmower.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Hal Davis (MODEL A HAL)</div><div class="ubbcode-body">There's nothing wrong with mechanical brakes as long as you keep them maintained. Short of having ABS, hydraulics have nothing on a good set of mechanicals. If they can lock up all four wheels, what else can you ask for? </div></div> This is simply not true. Once you have locked up your wheels, you have given up all traction and directional control. The bid advantage to disc brakes is that they can stop much faster without locking up. Hydraulic brakes, even the early Chrysler setups, are a huge improvement over mechanicals. If they weren't we would all have mechanical brakes today. That being said, I agree with Ivan except for one detail. The car you want is a four cylinder Plymouth, preferable a PA or PB. I have a PA sedan, and the superiority over the Model A is significant. Floating Power engine mounting makes it feel like it has the smoothness of an eight. And of course there is the aforementioned terrific brakes. Add in an all-steel body, full instrumentation (ask a Model A guy what oil pressure is), synchro-mesh transmission, and an all around well-designed car and you have what many people consider to be the first true "modern" car. My PA will run forever at 50 mph, with the occasional sprint to 65. Acceleration is nice (40 in second, no problem). If you want to run faster, you can replace the free wheeling with an overdrive. The brakes and suspension are more than adequate for the speed. I have not driven my Plymouth in quite a while, having concentrated on other cars. Unfortunately is sits in the back of my garage on jack stands with only 39k miles. I do not know what kind of mileage it will get, but I assume that 20mpg should be possible. All of this talking up of the car has me thinking. I work at home and just cruise around town. Maybe when the lease on my modern (read boring) car is up, I will return the PA to service.

I never saw a pump with priming cups and spark plug holes.

Webster defines classic as, "1 : serving as a standard of excellence : of recognized value <classic literary works> b : TRADITIONAL, ENDURING <classic designs> c : characterized by simple tailored lines in fashion year after year <a classic suit> 2 : of or relating to the ancient Greeks and Romans or their culture : CLASSICAL 3 a : historically memorable" Funny, the CCCA and their opinions are not cited. Personally, I think the CCCA's list is rather silly. Why should a car from 1925 be considered a "classic" when the same car from 1924 is not? My boring, plain-jane 1932 Franklin Airman sedan is a classic according to the CCCA, but my 1933 Franklin Olympic convertible coupe, which is much more distinctive and beautiful in my opinion (and maybe a better car overall), is not a classic. Whatever, they're all just old cars, and they will all be examples of excellence and will be in fashion long after I'm dead.

Talk to these people: http://www.patricksantiquecars.com/index.htm

I believe the reason that cars from the mid-fifties with eyebrows over the headlights get holes is that mud gets thrown up there and cakes into the cavity. If this car was never driven, then there would be no mud caked in the fender wells, and therefore no rust. Looking at the photos, it appears that the car was completely submerged for long periods. If it were sitting outside for 50 years, it would look better than it does.

If the engine is not original, or you don't care if it's original, then you can replace it with a 1954 engine with pressure lubrication. It will look the same, but be more reliable. Also, I believe that taller rear end gears are available for this truck. With those two invisible modifications, you will have a nice highway cruising, yet original appearing truck. Good luck with it.

I take that back. I don't think it's Sears. I only see exhaust ports, where are the intakes?

It could be an early Sears engine. If the cylinders are directly opposed instead of being offset like on most engines, and connecting rods are "bent" then it's probably Sears.

I have more photos if anyone wants them.

I hope these photos show up. The new forum has me a bit confused. These are marked as being for a '26 Chevy, but they are not Delco, they say something like US Flatlight.

I have more photos of this car. I can't figure out how to post the pics with the "improved" site. E-mail me if you want them. The price is $35,000.

Does anyone know the origin of the term "rumble seat."

This isn't a 348/409, and it isn't a Chevy. This is a GMC 305 V6. They were fairly common through the 60s in all sorts of GMCs from pickups up to 60-series trucks.

I saw this in Silver Plume, CO a couple of years ago. The radiator badge said "Whippet Six." Did Whippet make large trucks?