Steve Braverman

For what you are doing, any Franklin axle from Series 9-11 should be fine. They are all slightly different. Going price is a difficult thing to say. These things are not too common.

All Franklins except the V12 and the Olympic used a tubular front axle. They got larger and heavier as the cars evolved, but they all look similar. I recently parted out a Series 10, but the front axle ans steering was sold to somebody with similar ideas to yours.

I know that Reo had a vacuum clutch option that was available on the 1932-34 Flying Clouds. It may have been available earlier. That could be what the round thing on the fire wall is. The car definitely has hydraulic brakes.

Do you have a Franklin, or are you building something?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Merchant Xpress</div><div class="ubbcode-body">It is my personal belief that no one should haul a car on a trailer with a half ton truck. Too much weight for the tow vehicle is just asking for an accident. Harry </div></div> Harry, Twenty years ago I would agree with you. I had a 1988 Dodge 1/2 ton pickup that could barely carry my lunch in the bed without sagging. I used to tow with a 1973 3/4 ton Suburban, and it always handled well. (The 454 would sometimes get a low as 3mpg!) Today's 1/2 ton truck are usually rated to tow up to, and sometimes more than, 9,000#. My father and I have two enclosed trailers, a 24' C&C and a 7x16' Haulmark. The C&C is very heavy, and I currently have nothing that will tow it. The Haulmark is very light, and we carry early cars in it. We tow it with a mini-van. My father's 2004 Mercury mini-van tows it with his brass-era cars that weigh under 2,000# with no problems. We recently brought home a 1925 touring that weighs 2600# behind my 2001 V8 Dakota. The Dakota didn't even feel the trailer except on steep hills, and it handled great. When the Dakota is ready for replacement, I will get a 2009 or later 1/2 ton. They all advertise at least 20 mpg empty, and can tow over 9000#. My heaviest car weighs 4250#, combined with the trailer that's a bit under 8000#. A properly equipped and loaded trailer should pose no issues.

Chrysler had hydraulic brakes in 1924. Many other high-end cars got juice brakes by '28.

The rectangular gauge is a King-Seely type gas gauge.

The shims will change the caster.

The Franklin parts manual does not show an illustrated breakdown of the stabilator. It does list the lubricating insert as part# 84176. If it's any consolation, a box of 60 sold for $1.50 in 1929.

Any decent auto parts store should be able to order 0 gauge cable. In this case, bigger is better.

Judy, The list "belongs" to a friend of my father. He is out of town at the moment and I'm not sure that I can share it without his permission. The list is a work in progress. I will get back to you. You can contact my dad, Joel, at oldcarjoel@optonline.net BTW, I don't think there were any Sears dealers, they were sold out of the catalog.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 24T42</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Ours is number 3295 and was built in 1911. So yours was built way before then - my guess is early 1910? </div></div> How do you know the year of your car for sure? My father's car is 3448, and it's titled as 1910. We think the last car was built in 1912, and the numbers go over 5000. The Sears registry shows that the "so called" years of the cars do not correspond to the numbers. BTW, the registry shows your car as 3296. Which number is right?

Your cables seem to be wrong. Undersize cables will cause all the symptoms you describe. Most local auto parts stores will not have what you need, but can probably get it. The correct size is 0 gauge. It's heavy stuff. I bought an Optima 6V battery last year. It was money well spent. It does everything they claim it does. I'll let you know in a few more years about the longevity.

It's hard to say exactly when your car was built, but it was probably 1910-12. Your car is not on the Sears registry. Please contact Joel Braverman at oldcarjoel@optonline.net to add your car to the registry.

It could, or an out of balance or untrue wheel. Are the wheels wires or wood?

What size are your battery cables? Maybe your starter is the problem, or the switch/relay.

I have a Franklin parts manual for series 9-10 somewhere. They used stabilators, I'll see if there is a illustration and scan it for you. I need to replace a bunch of the straps on two of our Franklins, so I should study this anyway. As for the lubricant, Whitmore's is still around. I don't see any Compound No. 0 on their web site, but maybe if you contact them, they can help. I know it says on the body of the Stabilator to use no grease or oil. http://www.whitmores.com/index.htm

Have you checked the caster?

Sounds like you have a maintenance problem. There is nothing wrong with a 6V system. Make sure your connections are clean and your cable are right. A 6V system needs 0 gauge battery cables. Cable for a 12V system will not carry sufficient amperes. Remember Ohm's Law, half the voltage requires twice the amperage.

Nice golf cart.

There is a company called Sturdee that builds small boats. Your handle appears to be aluminum, it could be a boat part.

As far as antiques go, I miss my Grandfather's 1930 Lincoln. What a fabulous car that was. As for modern iron, my 1984 BMW 325e was such an impressive machine. It was quick, comfortable, got 34 mpg, and always looked in style.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Dave Fields</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Don't forget to check the antifreeze on your new car..... </div></div> Yes, I only use the waterless kind.

The Model A was designed without a grill. The grill guard hides the car.

These are getting scrapped if nobody wants them. Come and get them.