Steve Braverman

Vince, There is a 1933 Plymouth PC in a barn near me. It think it's a two-door sedan, but no trunk. Let me know if it interests you, and I'll show you where it is.

Thanks for your help. It's #R-7130. I'll get a photo of an actual handle tomorrow.

This filter attaches to the top of a vacuum tank. I need two of them.

I need an inside door handle for a Series 10 touring or Demi-Sedan.

I can't believe that nobody here knows the answer to this.

I've seen this photo many times before. I think it's a 1929 Chrysler. What model? How much would it have cost when new?

Can the newer (86-up) heads and intake be used on an early block?

This just appeared on ebay. I believe it is Series 11 based on the tire size. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Franklin-...1QQcmdZViewItem

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 1913 T</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks Steve, I live in Bridgewater & did not even think about Perkins foundry!!!</div></div> If you live in Bridgewater, then definitely stop and talk to them. I had a pattern maker make me a pattern for the flange I needed, taking into consideration normal shrinkage during the casting process. The problem was, there was no shrinkage. Depending on how it fits, he may be able to use your old cover as a pattern. He charged me about $35 to cast one flange, so I said to make two in case one breaks. He said, it's not going to break, if you need another, come back. I never needed another. A first-class operation.

The Henry Perkins Company in Bridgewater, MA can cast in steel or iron. I had an exhaust flange made there. Inexpensive and very high quality.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: AlK</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If you want to expand a little and include Bridgewater, there used to be an antique car museum there. I stopped at it back in the early 80's and took pictures(slides). with a little searching I may be able to dig those out and make prints for you. </div></div> The Bridgewater Museum is long gone. I bought a 1933 Franklin out of there in 1992. It was one of the last cars sold. There were a lot of very interesting cars in that museum.

I drive Route 20 every summer in my 1932 Franklin from Cazenovia to Duanesburg on my way home from the Franklin Trek. It truly is one of America's scenic highways. I'd like to drive the entire length some day from Boston's Storough Drive to the other end in Portland, OR. Some day when I have the time

There is a Franklin club. Go to www.franklincar.org There is no NW chapter, but we do have a few members in that area. If you advertise the car, a serious buyer will travel. A 1911 model G was just sold, and it went to the Netherlands.

As if I don't have enough problems, I have a boat. It has a Volvo-Penta stern drive with a Chevy 350. The engine was not properly winterized, and the block cracked just below the head gaskets on both sides. The cracks are very minute, and are only visible because of the staining from leaking water. Can this be fixed, or is the engine junk? The engine is fairly new. A professional mechanic friend said it can be fixed with marine tex or JB weld, but it's a questionable repair.

If you want it to look original, then keep it original.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Jim Bollman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Since you're on LI you may not have the option I will suggest. </div></div> Thanks Jim, there are not too many saw mills around these parts, but there's a lot of decent lumber yards. I'll ask around. Your barn looks great.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bchevy</div><div class="ubbcode-body">1 vote against t-111, it's cheap for a reason. </div></div> OK, what's the reason?

A friend of mine calls them all "old scows." I'm not really sure what it means, but it's probably appropriate.

I have a three car garage on my property that was built in 1935. It is a pole barn type of building, in that it has vertical studs every four feet or so. It's actually straight and square after all these years. The exterior walls are tongue and groove bead boards. There is nothing else. The building is in bad need of paint, but I think it's time to put another layer of siding on this building, as I can see from inside the staining where water leaks between the boards. I don't want to spend a fortune, but I also don't want to ruin the character of the building. I'm thinking of either board and batten siding or T-111 siding. The board and batten is more authentic, but the T-111 is cheaper and easier to install, I think. Either way, I'll cover the building in Tyvek first. Of course, I could just scrape and paint what's already there, but I think a second layer will strengthen and tighten up the structure. The other issue is the doors. Two of them are original sliding barn-type doors, and the third is a fiberglass overhead door (ugly). The sliders are not tight at all. I figure there are probably ways to tighten up the doors and keep them, then I was going to paint the fiberglass door to match. I'll even paint on the cross-bucks. It's not a perfect solution, but it's cost-effective. Eventually I'd like new overhead doors that look like carriage house doors, but they are quite expensive. Okay, what's everyone's opinion on this? The siding issue needs to be done first.

I love how far we've come with fuel efficiency.

I have E-rated LT tires on my trailer. It came that way when new. I don't think you can get trailer tires in 16".

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 1937hd45</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Steve, just looked at your steering box part book pages. What I have are a Series 9 and Series 10 steering box. What years were covered by both models? </div></div> Hi Bob, I was wondering when you were going to chime in on this thread. The Series 9 was built from mid 1916-21, and the Series 10 went from mid 1921-25.

Here is the front axle. Series 9 and 19 have the same part number, so they must be the same. I learn something new every day.

Chuck is right. I believe the Gemmer steering came out in 1928, but I do not know for sure. The chances of finding a pre-series 9 steering box is fairly slim.

It is hard to tell from your photo, but it looks like a series 10 steering box. The series 9 is similar.