Gary_Ash

Looks to be late 1920's Big Six axle with hub for wood spoke wheel. There should be a gear ratio tag on the center section. Low numbers have value, especially 3.31 and 3.09. It seems to be from a 1927-28 car or earlier, before they made the switch from external brakes to internal ones.

I'm looking for a 1930-35 vintage Bendix Scintilla model VAG8-D3 magneto or very similar for a replica of a Studebaker Indy car. See picture below. Gary Ash Dartmouth, MA

The aluminum head may have casting number 186189. If so, it's 6.5:1 compression; the iron head may be 5.5 or 6:1. The aluminum head weighs 17 lbs versus the 54 lbs of the iron head. You just need to find the 184631 gasket for the head. Be sure to check the head for cracks before using it. Other things being equal, I'd chose the transmission with the latest build date, if it fits. B/W may have improved some things with time, but I have no details of the differences.

The axle looks like the 1928 Commander model with internal drum brakes. Get out your wire brush and go around the rear cover on the axle. There should be a small tag between two of the cover bolts showing the axle ratio. These ranged from 3.09 to 3.73, maybe higher numerically. Also, use the wire brush on the outer ends of the rear axle housing on the top surface out near the flanges. There should be some numbers cast into the conical ends. Rub a piece of white chalk over the numbers to make them stand out and take some pictures. They might be something like MO2068.

John: None of the cars have the same dash today, so it's hard to know what was "correct". Perhaps Bob Valpey's #37 car is the most original. Here are the other dashes: Mike Cleary's #18 car: The Indy Motor Speedway Museum's #22 car: Bob Valpey's #37 car: And the replica #46 car is also different. I'm looking for the Stewart-Warner gauges with the little moons on the back ends of the arrows and without the modern S-W logos. So, that's why I'm looking for whatever I can get from a '32 President. These gauges were probably used on some other cars (and boats) of the period, as well. So far, I've got an oil pressure gauge and ammeter I can use. Of course, the original cars had no ammeter because they had no generators, only the magneto. I'm also looking for a large 4000 or 5000 rpm S-W tachometer to match.

I'm looking for a speedometer, temperature gauge, and gas gauge from a 1932 President in good or restorable condition. These will go in the dash of the Indy car I'm building. Here's what they look like in a 1932 President State roadster:

Fred: I sent an email to you. I'm making progress, but many parts are hard to find, especially a rear axle from a 1928 EW or GB with 3.07 or 3.31 ratio. Thanks for the offer of help.

Bob, I'm looking for a 222994 steering box and column (about 1930-31 President) or the equivalent Ross box with the bearing follower. Does your's look anything like this one?

And if you want a matching one for a kid's pedal car, item J on this page looks pretty close: Early 1930's Pedal Car Hood Ornaments

Ed: Reproduction water manifolds for '28-'32 Presidents are available from Dave Murray, Gig Harbor, WA at $250 ea. He also has chromed manifolds for $350, copper/asbestos washers for $30/set. I'll email you his phone/email info.

From the June 26,2009 Martha's Vineyard "Gazette": 1930 Pierce Arrow Model B straight 8, 3-speed manual, dual side mounts, rear mounted trunk. Runs and drives beautifully. 508-360-5633. The photo shows a long sedan with wire wheels and white walls.

No, I won't be using them. The tubes are OK except the top of the largest of the three, but that can be fixed. The button and the stack under it are ugly. I don't see any levers, must be long gone. I'll send you a PM with my phone number, etc.

I'm building a replica of a 1932 Studebaker Indy car. I'm in eastern Massachusetts, need the following Studebaker parts: rear axle: 1928 Victoria coupe or roadster (model GB or EW) with 3.09-3.47 ratio. If you have an axle housing with a higher ratio, I might be interested. shocks: Houdaille double-acting "A" style (in Stude parts book), 1929-33 front axle: 1931-33 President

I've got a 1929 President FH steering box for the Indy car project. It must have sat in wet mud for a few decades because there was no grease inside, only fine sand and rust. I was able to push the cross shaft out with a hydraulic press. There was a threaded cap on the end of the housing where the steering column came out - it took two people, with a giant pipe wrench and 5 ft pieces of extender pipe to unscrew the thing after 80 years. There were also 3 tubes, one inside the other, that went down inside the steering shaft to actuate timing and hand throttle. Fortunately, those were still greasy enough not to have rusted. I won't be needing them, though. I pulled the snap ring at the far end and slid the steering shaft and worm out. There are about 16 loose bearing balls at each end with a cup on the outside and the mating races machined into the ends of the worm. Of course, the balls and cups are toast and the races on the worm are pitted badly. I'm hoping someone can regrind the race areas and clean up the worm surfaces. The screw-in cap would take up any lost length on the worm. Maybe the entire worm can be replaced. Am I dreaming? It would be easier to ship the pieces to a rebuilder if I could get the worm off the shaft. There appears to be a 2" long sleeve that fits inside the end of the worm at the far end. The sleeve has a thin flange on the outer end with fine star-like teeth all around. Does this sleeve unscrew with a special socket wrench to release the worm? Anyone know a good steering rebuilder for Ross boxes? This box has casting number 222892. If anyone had another of these or a 222894 or a 1931 or later President box with a ball-bearing pin on the worm follower, I would be very interested.

[Edited: the axle was from a 1929 President FH, serial number 7028315] I found a 1929 President axle with wood wheels and rod actuated 15" brakes. While I want the axle for the Indy car project, I don't need the brakes. One side came apart easily, looks very good, little rust for a 71 year old assembly. The other side had the shoes rusted to the drum and frozen up internally, but I got it apart without having to damage anything major. The demountable rims are trash, but the rest is usable. Anyone interested in the drums, backing plates, shoes, etc? They are HEAVY! I'm 50 miles south of Boston near Providence, RI. Anyone have some front hubs for wire wheels or disk wheels for a <span style="text-decoration: underline">1929-30</span> President?

The clips, part 518977, were used on all '39-'46 Champs, as well as '40-'42 Presidents and Commanders. M5 trucks also used them. Maybe someone has a bad wheel and can pull some clips for you. There is just a chance that the later 526646 clips will fit in the slots and retain your hub caps. I say this because I used them on my M5, and it uses the same hub caps as the '41 Presidents. These clip into the slot and are not riveted or screwed on. Stude International has them for $2.95 ea, $29.95 for a set of 12.

I'm interested in the generator and distributor. I won't be at the swap meet, but maybe someone from New England could bring them back for me. I'm near New Bedford, Mass.

The chassis for my 1932 Indy racer reproduction got delivered. It looks great, very accurate from what I can tell. I have two 250 cu in President engines to work on, an aluminum head, and the 4 Stromberg carbs. I'm still looking for a 1932-33 President front axle. This would all go faster if my check book could stand the pain, LOL! My wife says, "You want the racer, you don't get to retire! Oh, and I want a few things for me since there seems to be a little cash to spare." She's a very insightful and supportive woman. A friend pointed me to a book called "Race Car Vehicle Dynamics" by Milliken and Milliken. It will be a help in setting up the steering geometry and spring rates based on current knowledge.

Did you pressure test the core? Does the motor run (6 volts)? Is the nickel plating on the Quad Duty tag in good shape? If yes, then $50-$100, if not $25-$50. I'm basing my estimate on the fact that it seems to be all there, no dents, only a little surface rust, and I'm assuming that the fan will run. Of course, you need to find (at least) 1 buyer willing to pay your price. But then, that's what Ebay is for...

Most of the Stude truck guys are on the Stude Truck Talk web site at www.network54.com/Forum/23885/ Try posting a couple of pics there and a price. Just paste in the URL of the picture, don't need the "bracket img bracket" stuff.

It was used in M5, M15, and M16 trucks 1941-48. That looks like a nice one, easily restored with a little bronze Hammerite paint.

At the York Swap Meet, I picked up a high compression aluminum cylinder head and two EX-23 1-bbl downdraft carbs for my Indy car engine (250 cu in President 8). I need two more of the EX-23's. These were used on 1935 and later Dictators, etc. The base has EX-23 cast into it. They just need to be in decent rebuildable condition. What have you got? I am also looking for parts and advice for the cylinder head gasket. I've heard horror stories about aluminum heads sticking to blocks. Any tips to avoid that? Where do I get a proper gasket?

Thanks for the dimensions. It seems I need to account for the diameter of the U-bolts in specifying the hole center dimensions. Those dimensions seem close but maybe a little wider than what I am looking for. But, I'll keep it in mind. Thanks.

The front axle should look about like this one: http://www.studegarage.com/images/indy/Indy_front_axle.jpg The inner set of holes for the spring mounts should be about 21" apart and the outer holes about 25" apart. With wheels and tires mounted, the distance from the center of one tire to the other is about 58". Have you got any pictures?

I'm still looking for parts to build my 1932 Indy car. Someone out there must know where there is a great big pile of axles just waiting for this project. The rear axle should be in the 3.07-3.73 ratio range, but I'll consider anything at this point. It's one of those that the ring-and-pinion carrier bolts into the housing. I think the centers of the spring perches are about 38 ionches apart and the track (center-to-center on tires) should be about 58 inches. I need a front axle and spindles, too. I'll be at York next weekend.