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About mfrank

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  1. It's the thermostat bypass. When the thermostat is closed, the bypass opens and allows coolant to be pumped around the block, rather than through the radiator. Otherwise coolant flow would stagnate until enough heat reached the thermostat for it to open. The early Buick system is a milestone in thermostat design. I'm writing an E-book on thermostats, you can read about bypass designs here:
  2. Wow. That was quick. Thanks.
  3. Anyone recognize the source for this deco car clock? It's made by Jaeger, and it's a 6 volt movement.
  4. There was only one C4RK. The oddly shaped rear was for aerodynamics, not to be pretty. The aerodynamicist was none other than Wunibald Kamm himself. I believe it ran the fastest lap at Le Mans in 1951, but succumbed to engine trouble and DNF. Cunningham had to make 50 road cars in order to homologate as a manufacturer, and that's the only reason he built the company. It never made money, and for that reason, it was closed by the IRS.
  5. In case you've never seen a Cunningham. This is an exact copy of C4RK made by Panel Beaters of Stratford, CT for the Cunningham family. The original was run through a 3D scanning machine, and the bucks made by CNC. Then the panels were hand beaten.
  6. Thanks, these are helpful. The Packard application is different from the one I posted. It appears to have a true double poppet thermostat, which is the earliest example I've seen. Sylphons were in use for decades before there were automobiles. First as part of mechanisms for measuring temperature and pressure, and later as furnace damper regulators. Your 1917 patent is actually a thermometer, even though he refers to it as a thermostat.
  7. I found my answer. in a 1920 copy of Automitive Engineering. Cadillac was indeed the first application of a water-side bellows thermostat, although it's a bit odd. The thermostat controlled the cold side, and the always-open bypass came through the head by way of a small tube. The same article addresses the slightly later Packard system, which qualifies as the first controlled-bypass thermostat.
  8. I'm writing an article on the history of thermostats. I recently stumbled on an article in the Feb 11, 1915 Automobile that reported on a sylphon water side thermostat that was used by Cadillac that year. The next earliest reference I can find to water side sylphons is in a 1921 white paper. In '21, the idea was clearly novel, and wasn't in common use. It wasn't until 1930 that the relevant patents for the bellows thermostat was filed. So the 1915 reference is very interesting to me, as it would likely be the first application of the concept. I have no access to an example, so I'm hoping that someone out there has either an actual car, a thermostat, or a shop manual and can supply me with some photos and maybe some information as to how this device operated.
  9. I manufacture aluminum radiators for vintage cars, so allow me to give you the inside scoop. First if all, your first consideration is aesthetics vs practicality. With only a handful of exceptions, aftermarket aluminum radiators won’t have anything like the look of the original. If your goal is preservation of a classic, you really should recore your stock radiator. Nothing looks more ridiculous to me than an aluminum radiator in an otherwise original and well preserved old car, and I make these things. OTH, if you are looking for a practical radiator for a driven car, copper is expensive, and more importantly, becoming very hard to find. I can’t think of a single old fashioned rad shop still operating in the Hudson valley. So you will be at the mercy of specialists and a diminishing old stock of parts. Not an unfamiliar situation for the restorer, but not the best for the practical driver. A custom made aluminum radiator will last 20 years or more, but will not be repairable or rebuildable. As for why aluminum works better, it’s not the metal that matters. The secret is fin-tube contact. This is optimized when you have a small number of large tubes. So going from a radiator with three rows of 1/2 tubes to a radiator with a single 1.5 inch tube is actually going to improve heat transfer 15%, regardless of material. Most of my cores have just two rows of 1” tubes. When you enlarge the tube, the walls have to be thicker, and the advantage goes to aluminum because of weight. The rest of it is that there has been a lot of development of fin materials, and modern corrugated fins offer more surface and create more air turbulence than old fashioned accordion pleats. That’s the engineering part, everything else is rumor. Finally a new radiator is cleaner, no matter what it’s made of, and that has to help. Because there are is so much ‘common knowledge’ from the days of copper, there are a lot of bad products out there. Beware of Chinese radiators that advertise four row aluminum cores. These abound, but they are not worth the price, however cheap. Again, fewer, larger tubes is better than more small tubes. And higher fin count also means less air flow, so again, what you remember about copper doesn’t help. Finally, corrosion. Here’s the secret: 50 /50 coolant. Don’t listen to the water cools best crowd, and never mind that you never drive in winter. Antifreeze does more than protect against freezing. I recommend a low silicate antifreeze, like Zerex G05, rather than a dexcool. But whatever you choose, stick to a 50/50 ratio.